Chinese LED Lights

A point of reference:
300gLEDPARReadingsFeb2013_zpsacab432e.jpg
 
Bhazard thanks for the compliment and all the help/ knowledge you share on this forum and the old one as well! And no par readings as of yet nikesb. Haven't been able to locate a meter. I am just winging it for now I guess!
 
I know this might be a rudimentary question....but here it goes. Can someone describe, in therms of color what the difference is between.

14K look
16K Look
18K Look
ect..

Thanks,
 
10K is very close to natural sunlight. Some 10K MH are a clean white and some have a slight yellow tint like natural sunlight. There are a lot of 14K & 15K MH bulbs around and they have a bluish tint to them. 20K bulbs are typically (but not always) much more blue. Those are the common colors of MH bulbs. If you go looking for examples of a Kelvin color temperature chart, you'll find most of them stop at 10K as 'sky blue'. Here is a link that at least gives some higher number examples:

http://www.vvme.com/page.html?chapter=1&id=34
 
@Ron do you know by any chance how much the it2080 weighs? And if two heavy duty shelving brackets would work as far as hanging it?
 
Andy, my shipping info says the IT2080 weighs 9.5kg which is just under 21lbs and that is the shipping weight with a box and packing materials included. I found metal shelf brackets and screw in wall anchors at HD that can carry a 75lb load and I have one on either side on my IT2040 (14lbs) and D120's (9lbs). My IT2080's are hanging in a canopy.

P2080002_zps49ce827f.jpg
 
Andy, my shipping info says the IT2080 weighs 9.5kg which is just under 21lbs and that is the shipping weight with a box and packing materials included. I found metal shelf brackets and screw in wall anchors at HD that can carry a 75lb load and I have one on either side on my IT2040 (14lbs) and D120's (9lbs). My IT2080's are hanging in a canopy.

P2080002_zps49ce827f.jpg

That looks good. So do u have to have the brackets attached to studs in the wall?
 
10K is very close to natural sunlight. Some 10K MH are a clean white and some have a slight yellow tint like natural sunlight. There are a lot of 14K & 15K MH bulbs around and they have a bluish tint to them. 20K bulbs are typically (but not always) much more blue. Those are the common colors of MH bulbs. If you go looking for examples of a Kelvin color temperature chart, you'll find most of them stop at 10K as 'sky blue'. Here is a link that at least gives some higher number examples:

http://www.vvme.com/page.html?chapter=1&id=34

Thanks Ron...this was very helpful:beer:
 
That looks good. So do u have to have the brackets attached to studs in the wall?

No, the aquarium is not movable and the wall studs didn't line uo at all. So I used these:

P2090006_zps3d7fe610.jpg


http://www.powers.com/pdfs/plastic/02345.pdf

These are each able to carry a 70lb shear & 65lbs of tension and there are 4 of them in the wall. So that's a 280lb shear holding up maybe 14-15lbs of light and bracket. I have 2 of the D120 lights hung with 3 brackets over my 55g QT.

Thanks Ron...this was very helpful:beer:
Glad to help. I was surprised when I went looking for some helpful image that all the Kelvin color charts stop at 8000K or 10,000K and don't get into the 14K and 20K we always talk about in MH bulb colors. Anybody ever find a good color chart that goes to 20K?
 
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Wow! What a thread. I've read most of this, and Have a couple of questions.

I have a 220, 72 x 24 x 30, and I am looking at doing 3 of the RB value fixtures.

How does that sound?
Should I do the 90 degree optics?
Will this have full coverage, no shadowing (with exception of slight shadow from two middle braces)?
 
Thanks Ron. So you would trust 2 brackets with using the wall anchors to hold 1 it2080?

I wouldn't give it a second thought. If you are concerned use the anchors that put a big 'spreader' inside the wall. I've been a handyman for the last 20 years and these have held up all kins of heavy stuff.

Wow! What a thread. I've read most of this, and Have a couple of questions.

I have a 220, 72 x 24 x 30, and I am looking at doing 3 of the RB value fixtures.

How does that sound?
Should I do the 90 degree optics?
Will this have full coverage, no shadowing (with exception of slight shadow from two middle braces)?

You want the 90 degree lenses. Three of the D120's should work OK with a 30" depth if you keep sps closer up to the light. I'd have said it's fine with a 180g and 24' depth, but could be iffy with your 30" depth. I'd rather have too much than not enough light.

If I were you, I'd think long and hard about doing two of the IT2080's instead. You'd have 64" of leds instead of 48" (ie.198 leds instead of 165), you'd have 2 power cords instead of 6, you'd have moonlights, adjustable hangers and best of all, timer/controller with a remote. Don't under value the controller. It makes ramping up your power of time easier and the ability to do slow sun rise and sun set can also soften the switch from t5 or MH to leds.
 
I was impressed with par from the it2080. Through air at 29" height the center of the fixture I was getting 450 par. At the edges under the leds I was getting 330.
 
Wow! What a thread. I've read most of this, and Have a couple of questions.

I have a 220, 72 x 24 x 30, and I am looking at doing 3 of the RB value fixtures.

How does that sound?
Should I do the 90 degree optics?
Will this have full coverage, no shadowing (with exception of slight shadow from two middle braces)?

My 150 is 31" deep. I went with 60 degree optics. Ive never checked par but everything is happy, even sps in the lower 2/3 of the tank. I could have probably went with 90 but I have clams on the sand bed.
 
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