Closed loop or Power Heads?????

Closed loop or Power Heads?????

  • Closed Loop

    Votes: 21 50.0%

  • Power Heads

    Votes: 21 50.0%
  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
I'm a sticker for efficiency. CL uses too much electricity compared to propeller pumps.
 
SPotter said:
Thank you for sharing...I really want to do the CL. Since you've had both do you like one better than the other?

As far as not getting craters or moons, do you drill inside out or outside in? One person told me to drill from the inside of the tank out to avoid that problem.


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Click to expand...

I drilled mine from the inside and actually got more chip out in the inside of the tank than the outside
 
I have never had a closed loop, but I am using one on my new build. I have 6 1" bulkheads on the bottom of the tank that will be plumbed to a Oceans Motion special 6 way. I have 6 Sea Swirls that will be mounted up top and 2 ATB Flowstar 3200 pumps to run them.

My main reason for this was less powerheads and more random flow. Vortechs are impressive pumps, but coral does not do as well when blasted 24/7 by a powerhead or pump with linear flow.

I have a grow out tank that is 36x24x24 with 2 Vortech MP40es and plumbed into it is a frag tank with 2 Sea Swirls. The same colonies that are in the tank are fragmented and have better polyp extension and growth under the sea swirls. Both tanks are lit with T5 PM. This is what has sold me on Sea Swirls and closed loop systems.

I ordered the tank drilled, but ended up having to drill a couple extra holes in the 1/2" Eurobrace and it was pretty easy.

I have yet to finish the plumbing and there are many more spots where it could have a leak, but I am taking my time and using good material so things should be ok.

I do like to glue and primer all connections and do not think PVC was meant to have pipe thread. I also made sure all my bulkheads were PVC as many sell ABS and they do not glue as well to PVC pipe.

I have had a few friends tell me to glue the inside edge of the bulk heads to make sure they never leak with a good aquarium silicone after they are tightened in and I think I will do this as well.

Good luck and if you keep the water running and make yourself a guide and go slow drilling the tank is easier than it sounds, good luck:)
 
SPotter said:
I am debating between a 200 and 240 deep. Honestly, my biggest concern is drilling the tanks which is what has sparked my debate. I have never drilled glass before and I am not sure if I really want to give it a try. I have an OM4 and a Dart ready to go for the CL but trying to decide if the extra work is really worth it. I do like the look of no extra equipment in the tank.
Click to expand...

drilling glass is as easy as drilling metal , seriously . spend $$$ on a good bit ... and dont push ! there are plenty of youtubes on proper glass drilling techniques. go closed loop , maybe two on a tank that big ! two (slightly smaller )would allow you to switch flows on timers etc.. and create a buffer for failure of the pump (as someone stated earlier ) . i think youll have way better cooling capabilities with the pumps out of the water too + visually , no pumps is always best ! i.m.o
 
OregonReefer said:
I drilled mine from the inside and actually got more chip out in the inside of the tank than the outside
Click to expand...

i lay them on there side up on sawhorses or a few boards , then you can fill the "back "with a few gallons of water . once you get the first one through the dirty water dumps out with the glass ... clean it and put a bulkhead in ... refill and begin to drill ! i have never sealed a b.h , just tighten them well . although i cant see where it would hurt its unnecessary .
 
BrokeColoReefer said:
not something i would do with a 200 gallon plus tank. At the minimum, i would use a portable press. I would hate to have the bit bind half way through a 1/2" piece of glass. I would reserve the free hand method for 50 gallons or less.
Click to expand...

A 200 gallon would be easier as someone already mentioned, bc the glass is thicker and not near as fragile. And as far as binding goes, you should have the clutch set on your cordless drill as low as it goes so if it binds it just slips the clutch. Not saying its wrong to use a press, but its definitely not nessecary and its just a waste of time IMO. Keep it simple.

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insanespain said:
A 200 gallon would be easier as someone already mentioned, bc the glass is thicker and not near as fragile. And as far as binding goes, you should have the clutch set on your cordless drill as low as it goes so if it binds it just slips the clutch. Not saying its wrong to use a press, but its definitely not nessecary and its just a waste of time IMO. Keep it simple.

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Click to expand...

true ! just buy a good bit !!!!! i have used the 11 dollar ones off ebay for various projects but would drop 50 or 60 on a bit (minimum) . you want it to be just as coarse when your done as when you started , and thats the difference between the two . as far as it binding , if your doing it right there is very little friction ... believe it or not . use a corded drill with a good motor , set to the lowest speed . you will be drilling for a while , so turn the radio way up and let the grinding begin !!!
 
all of this feed back has been great!!!! can anyone point me in the right direction for a good bit?
 
I prefer powerheads too... I like the flexibility they give as well as the efficiency...

Good luck with the drilling though!!!
 
When drilling, just remember to let the bit do the work... Slow and steady... If you try and rush it and start to press down and go too fast, it will end badly... ;)
 
Nope... I always used the ones off e bay, of course I never chanced drilling a tank I couldn't replace...

I know in talking to Deep Sea Aquatics, when drilling thick glass they will start on one side and finish drilling from the other to prevent chipping and end with a nicer finished product...
 
I'm so glad you posted deep sea aquatics!!!! I have been trying to remember their name and wanted to get a quote from them. I'm either buying the tank new or keep looking for a used tank. Do you know if they sell to the public or do I need to go thru a lfs?


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I don't know any brands of bits, but I drilled 7 with my ebay bit and I will say the last 2 holes I had to baby it bc the bit was getting dull. But they are cheap enough you could just pickup 2. Watch some of the youtube videos of ppl drilling to get an idea of how easy it is.

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flyingphish said:
the less holes in your display the better.

vortechs.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:






Deep Sea Aquatics is wholesale only... But they use a rather large distributor and DSA will help coordinate with a LFS in your area to get you your tank... Shoot me a PM if you need any help...

BTW the 185 I'm waiting on permission to set up is a DSA... Built like a tank... Takes 6 people to lift... Love it...
 
I don't think this thread should be about how easy/difficult/scary it is to drill a tank. Odds are he'll be drilling holes for his overflow anyway. Let's keep it to the advantages/disadvantages of closed loop versus powerheads.

I vote powerheads for their flexibility. After you've installed a closed loop system... that's it. if you find a deadspot in your tank, you're out of luck. If you arrange your rock scape to your liking, only to find out it severely inhibits the flow of one of your outputs, you must move the rock or be out of luck. Powerheads give you the flexibility to arrange your rocks and corals however you think works best. Then arrange the powerheads as many times as needed to ensure you have no deadspots.

You also get redundancy. If the pump powering your closed loop fails, you have no flow. If one powerhead fails, at least you have the others moving water until you notice the problem.

Efficiency has already been mentioned.

Powerheads also give you the option for a wavemaker.
 
firebirdude said:
I don't think this thread should be about how easy/difficult/scary it is to drill a tank. Odds are he'll be drilling holes for his overflow anyway. Let's keep it to the advantages/disadvantages of closed loop versus powerheads.

I vote powerheads for their flexibility. After you've installed a closed loop system... that's it. if you find a deadspot in your tank, you're out of luck. If you arrange your rock scape to your liking, only to find out it severely inhibits the flow of one of your outputs, you must move the rock or be out of luck. Powerheads give you the flexibility to arrange your rocks and corals however you think works best. Then arrange the powerheads as many times as needed to ensure you have no deadspots.

You also get redundancy. If the pump powering your closed loop fails, you have no flow. If one powerhead fails, at least you have the others moving water until you notice the problem.

Efficiency has already been mentioned.

Powerheads also give you the option for a wavemaker.
Click to expand...

Thats an excellent point about the CL pump failing... one of the reasons I have other means of moving water. I also have the other pumps and powerheads on a different breaker just incase one gets tripped.
 
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