Hi Vic...as the guy who put the floor together, allow me to clarify Peter's description of the floor. We put down a floor strength dimple board (comes in a large roll, look like the membrane they put on the outside of a foundation), then two layers of 1/2" plywood, staggered the joints and reversed the direction on the second layer. Each piece was about a 1/8" apart and then we screwed them together with lots of 1" floor screws. The hardwood was nailed down with a layer of wax paper between the hardwood and plywood. (A flooring company put this down, sanded it and applied three coats of finish).
Hope that helps
John
I'm the Project Manager for Peter and was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for what type of finish we should use on the panels we will be installing above the tank that will hide the lights and tank top. The wood will be maple and we are thinking of a marine grade clear spar finish. The other wood in the bar area is just finished with a semi-gloss latex polyurethane. My concern, if valid, is about future off-gassing. I don't think the marine grade would off-gas after it is cured, but thought I would ask the question.
John
I'm the Project Manager for Peter and was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for what type of finish we should use on the panels we will be installing above the tank that will hide the lights and tank top. The wood will be maple and we are thinking of a marine grade clear spar finish. The other wood in the bar area is just finished with a semi-gloss latex polyurethane. My concern, if valid, is about future off-gassing. I don't think the marine grade would off-gas after it is cured, but thought I would ask the question.
John
Thanks Drew, I don't think you realize just how effectively and positively you close down endless basement conversations on some of these topics. Your feedback is both timely and welcome.
If I may.........what about the 'gunk' that comes from the automatic head cleaner on my skimmer? John from DQI has nicknamed it 'Robbie the Robot' from Lost in space!
Peter
PS. my plan is to publish the SOP for the ongoing maintenance in this thread for approval from the thread members before it gets nailed to the elevator door.
northernreefer, we do have medication for that you know. At least in Canada............ooops! Then again, if you are truly Canadian you may not fully appreciate the nuance...........Australians do, Australians understand crazy real well.
Peter
For the folks who have been hiding behind the curtains just watching please feel free to step out and say hi.
As most of you know, the tendency in this place is sometimes driven by individuals ( I forget the correct term ) who scoot through just stirring up unnecessary debate for the sake of argument.
For the folks who have been hiding behind the curtains just watching please feel free to step out and say hi.
nineball just read the entire thread this is going to be an incredible build!!!, looking forward to seeing the progression of your tank in the days to follow simply outstanding.
hi john
thanks.
i was looking for the membrane in the picture,sounds and looks like a good solid subfloor,the membrane will help keep any moisture away from the wood.
thanks
vic
john
the marine grade spar varnish works really well around water.
ive put it on a few stands,also have framework around my inwall tank,with the semigloss marine spar with no ill effects on oak,i would recommend staining the wood first before applying the spar varnish.also ive had the tankwater up to 82 degrees and nothing happened to varnish.
i love this stuff.ive even put it on my cedar garage door and my picnic table
vic
Great tank, and great build thread Peter. Thanks for putting in the extra effort to document everything.
I would avoid a spar varnish (tung or linseed oil & polymer-based) and use an epoxy (fibreglass) like the West System.
http://westsystem.com/ss/
I deal with these guys because they are local.
http://webhome.idirect.com/~edd/smith.html
If you are buying a lot of it, then you can buy it here.
www.compositescanada.com
Shawn