Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

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That's good to know. The initial TDS spike must be why my DI seems to go fast, because when I test a few cups of water post RO but pre DI it only tests at a 2 or 3, but my DI seems to exhaust pretty quickly. I think I'll run a little off before I make any water from now on.
 
I was having a bit of trouble understanding the final configuration from Peter's photos, so I put together a rough sketch. I hope this will be helpful to other members, as well. Much thanks to Drago for clarifying several points for me along the way.

9BallRODI.gif


Dave.M
 
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another question for Chago is how do you run the GAC? is it in a canister like one of the refillable DI canisters, or is there some other way you do it?
 
I was having a bit of trouble understanding the final configuration from Peter's photos, so I put together a rough sketch. I hope this will be helpful to other members, as well. Much thanks to Drago for clarifying several points for me along the way.

9BallRODI.gif


Dave.M

looks good except i believe the 3 way solenoid is before the DI
nice diagram though sure makes it alot easier to follow that way!
Terry
 
Chago, On my Ro unit I added an output post ro membrane/ pre DI resin, to use for drinking water, and to test tds after the membrane. My question is when I want to make RO DI water would running a 1/4 - 1/2 gallon from the post membrane/pre DI output before allowing the water to go through the DI resin have a similar effect as the solenoid you installed?

yes it would as long as you test the water. The solenoid and controller work for people who are using auto top offs. If you have a manual system then yes you can control this yourself. My system is all automatic for people using auto top offs.
 
that is what i currently do with mine before every batch of water i make and i have noticed my DI resin last about twice as long. Only problem i have is i sometime forget to turn it off and leave it flushing lol. I have to stop trying to do to many things at one time lol.
Terry

LOL I actually almost wiped out my tank twice like that. I was letting mine run into the sump. Since then I set it up with a auto top off so I can't do that anymore.
 
killerbee181 said:
looks good except i believe the 3 way solenoid is before the DI
I will defer to Drago's judgement. He is the one who validated the drawing.

I love your avatar BTW. Being horizontally challenged myself, it never fails to give me a chuckle. :)

Dave.M
 
sorry folks, this was my fault not Daves. Killerbee is right the drawing reflects the water going to the DI then the solenoid. Its in fact the other way around. Good eye Killerbee, I was testing the group to see who was paying attention. Your the winner!!! your prize is a thumbs up :thumbsup: :lmao::lmao::lmao:
 
Good to know that I can save a little cash by extending my DI. I do have an auto top off, but I have to manually add the water to the top off container, and then I have a dual float switch system to run an aqualifter pump to actually top off the water. I have heard too many stories like yours where people have turned their saltwater tank to freshwater by having the output from the ro go directly to their sump.
 
sorry folks, this was my fault not Daves. Killerbee is right the drawing reflects the water going to the DI then the solenoid. Its in fact the other way around. Good eye Killerbee, I was testing the group to see who was paying attention. Your the winner!!! your prize is a thumbs up :thumbsup: :lmao::lmao::lmao:
yay i won something woohoo!!!

I love your avatar BTW. Being horizontally challenged myself, it never fails to give me a chuckle. :)

Dave.M
lol ya once i saw that picture i had to have it! You wouldn't believe how many people i meet on here and tell me they were expecting the fat guy lol!
Terry
 
In my 180 gallons, I am fighting Nitrate for the last year after a system crash. I am doing big water change but the nitrate always stay high (between 25 ppm and 50 ppm). If it's true, some people has reported nice result after using the NP Bio-Pellets from SWC in their system. Their nitrate went down after 2-4 months. Therefore, for less than 250$, I have started a reactor with 1 liter of these pellets about 2 weeks ago hoping that the nitrate in my system will go down. I will let you know the result within a month.

You can see my little 180g tank before my system crash on my personal website at www.sunnyreef.com
Note: It's just a plain page with a video of my tank on it. (it's not a commercial website).

I did want to make sure you know that there is an invitation to see the tank when you find yourself outside La Belle Province visiting my neck of the woods. Hopefully the permanent sump should be here by then and there might be something to see.
Peter

You are a very nice guy to open your house to all of us. It will be very nice to meet you. So, next summer when I will go in the Toronto area, I will pass by to say hello. And maybe you will also teach me some tricks on your nineball pool table :lolspin: I am so bad :sad2:

Sorry for my english as you have already notice, english is not my first language:cool:.

Chris
 
killerbee181 said:
looks good except i believe the 3 way solenoid is before the DI
Chago09 said:
Killerbee is right the drawing reflects the water going to the DI then the solenoid. Its in fact the other way around.
Okay, fixed. Part of the problem I was running into was that I was trying to position everything close to the positions they appear in in the photos, but as you can see that just doesn't work out too well.

9BallRODI-1.gif
 
killerbee181 said:
looks good except i believe the 3 way solenoid is before the DI
Chago09 said:
Killerbee is right the drawing reflects the water going to the DI then the solenoid. Its in fact the other way around.
Okay, fixed. Part of the problem I was running into was that I was trying to position everything close to the positions they appear in in the photos, but as you can see that just doesn't work out too well.

9BallRODI-1.gif


Dave.M
 
Drago,

Thanks for the info on chloramines. Many of us have purchased "chloramine special" RO/DI units that typically come with two Carbon Block filters. If I read your post correctly, you recommend GAC over Carbon Block. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to switch over? Is there an adapter or cartridge that we could use in our existing canisters?

Thanks.
 
Okay, fixed. Part of the problem I was running into was that I was trying to position everything close to the positions they appear in in the photos, but as you can see that just doesn't work out too well.

9BallRODI-1.gif


Dave.M

Dave, I don't know how you did it but that works. Well done. Living in the virtual world does have it's advantages I see!!!

By the way, I was going to wait until we hit the one millionth view to release the news about our project but I see that is coming real fast......... I am going to try and prepare the information release for Thursday or Friday. I will PM you on what I have decided so you can help me with it. We will keep this a secret until then. I would like to catch everyone asleep so Friday probably will be the best day to pull the curtain down. Remember......not a word to anyone!

Peter
 
After finishing chingchai's thread and noticing chinchai always talking about your thread I had to look at yours. I just finished your thread and all I have to say is your tank is phenomenal, you and Mr. wilson have done an amazing job on your aquarium. I one day would love to have a tank that can mirror your or chinchai's tanks. I love this tank, I can not wait until its loaded with corals & everything. Ooh I just wanted to ask because I do not remember if you did the review on it, but how do you like the skimz skimmer ? How is it performing ? thanks
 
Drago,

Thanks for the info on chloramines. Many of us have purchased "chloramine special" RO/DI units that typically come with two Carbon Block filters. If I read your post correctly, you recommend GAC over Carbon Block. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to switch over? Is there an adapter or cartridge that we could use in our existing canisters?

Thanks.

Yes GAC filters will fit into standard housings. Do you have standard 10" housings? or is it some special housing which you can only buy filters for that unit. In reality there is no such thing as a chloramine special unit. Really to remove chloramine you need a lot of contact time with the media. GAC has more surface area so it helps with more contact time. Also using a 20" filter in a 20" housing will really help with that contact time as obvioulsy the water needs to travel further through the longer filter.

PM me what you are using and I will see if I can help you out.

Thanks
 
In my 180 gallons, I am fighting Nitrate for the last year after a system crash. I am doing big water change but the nitrate always stay high (between 25 ppm and 50 ppm). If it's true, some people has reported nice result after using the NP Bio-Pellets from SWC in their system. Their nitrate went down after 2-4 months. Therefore, for less than 250$, I have started a reactor with 1 liter of these pellets about 2 weeks ago hoping that the nitrate in my system will go down. I will let you know the result within a month.

You can see my little 180g tank before my system crash on my personal website at www.sunnyreef.com
Note: It's just a plain page with a video of my tank on it. (it's not a commercial website).



You are a very nice guy to open your house to all of us. It will be very nice to meet you. So, next summer when I will go in the Toronto area, I will pass by to say hello. And maybe you will also teach me some tricks on your nineball pool table :lolspin: I am so bad :sad2:

Sorry for my english as you have already notice, english is not my first language:cool:.

Chris

Have you checked your source water? most cities will have nitrates in the tap. A RODI should be removing them. Use your nitrate test kit on your source water. If your registering nitrate then your membrane needs replacing.
 
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