Couple of questions about my tank? Apologies :(

[mjc041800]

Let me start out with that I am very sorry that my post, threads, thoughts, questions, etc. are all over the place. I was told by many many people that I am going to fast and I am all over the place. I just had some questions but I know that there were too many. I am thankful for those of you that told me these things and those of you that still answered my questions. Really! I understand that you guys have a life(tank ) too. I learned to ask questions in one thread and too take it slow, but if you don't mind me asking what do you guys mean by taking it slow? Thank you for answering all my nooby questions and I am truly sorry if I agrivated you. I must be a pain in the butt[on] I hope you still have the time and hope I don't get you mad from these questions. I just could use some critiecs and experties. Thank you!

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"?

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk?

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice?

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?

12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net?

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?

14. Any good maintence tips?

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?

16. Any other tips? Would be nice!

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend?

Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

 

[gone fishin]

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"?

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?

At this point there is no need to dose anything, other than maybe something to get your cycle going. For tests right now ammonia, nitrite, nitrate a refractometer is also suggested for salinity

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it. I have always mixed my own

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk?
In the beginning I would start with 10%/wk until you get to know your tank. Eventually you may be able to go to every two weeks or some other variant.

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice?
periodic cleaning
6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?
If left alone your back wall will eventually get covered in coralline, until then if you like the way it looks do it

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.
Only you can answer that question

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?
A lot of folks use the Milwaukee look on Bulk reef supply for others

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?
never had a bowfront but the screen itself is a piece of cake.
10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?This is a rather involved question and would be best posted on it own

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?
It takes awhile for the bacteria to die off, add a bit of fish food every few days should keep things ok
12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net? NO get a set for each I have a 5g bucket marked QT I keep that stuff in so it does not get mixed up

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?
This would get answered with your other QT question

14. Any good maintence tips?
Make a schedule and keep to it, the easier it is the more likely you will do it

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?
If you have a skimmer and live rock then you can ditch the filter if you want

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend?
Look at live aquaria to see what you like everyones taste are different, my tank majority are wrasses
Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

Some of your questions can get more detail in the setting up stick specifically your QT questions. Good luck

 

[Doogy]

Let me start out with that I am very sorry that my post, threads, thoughts, questions, etc. are all over the place. I was told by many many people that I am going to fast and I am all over the place. I just had some questions but I know that there were too many. I am thankful for those of you that told me these things and those of you that still answered my questions. Really! I understand that you guys have a life(tank ) too. I learned to ask questions in one thread and too take it slow, but if you don't mind me asking what do you guys mean by taking it slow? Thank you for answering all my nooby questions and I am truly sorry if I agrivated you. I must be a pain in the butt[on] I hope you still have the time and hope I don't get you mad from these questions. I just could use some critiecs and experties. Thank you!

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"
Depends on what coral route you decide to go. I would recommend the 24"

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?
From my understanding you don't have any corals yet? Or yes? Either way, stop dosing everything. I have no experience with your water, but if you go with a good salt for your water changes, you don't need to dose anything, at least starting out.

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it.
I have no experience with it.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk? Either way would work perfectly fine in my opinion.

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice?
I take a lot of pride in managing wires and scheduling maintenance. Just follow a schedule and get into a groove of cleaning and water changes

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?
This is strictly personal opinion. Most high end tanks, you will notice no background and spotless glass to maintain a infinite depth look. Personally, I want my back glass clean and clear.

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.
Again, personal opinion. I would at least plan for lps. But that's just my opinion.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?
You get what you pay for. I think a refractometer is a must. I highly recommend BRS brand. Or you can and a few bucks on eBay but you are getting questionable quality.

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?
I built mine really cheap from supplies at Lowe's. But I have heard great things about brs brand.

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?
Personally, I have never quarantined corals, I just dip them in Revive for 10-15 mins. Some people will argue, but I don't think it's necessary until you get into high end corals and anemones (gigs)

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?
You will not starve it, it will be its own self sustained eco system.

12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net?
Personally, I would dedicate supplies to QT and DT. It's just not worth the risk.

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?
I use vinegar and thoroughly rinse. Medications that you are using should take care of the disease / infection. If you use copper, that's a different story..

14. Any good maintence tips?

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?
I don't think you need a hob filter but if you are using the blue inserts with carbon, it will help with water clarity.

16. Any other tips? Would be nice!
Like people have told you before, go slow and don't rush it. Research research research. I know it's hard to move slow, trust me, I know. Unfortunately, many fish and coral die due to negligence and ignorance. I have learned so much from this forum!

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend?
You are somewhat limited to livestock based on your tank size. Personally, I don't think you can beat and pair of clowns , maybe designer, and a royal gramma!

Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

I tried to reply to most of your questions. I hope it's helps a little! I am by no means a pro, but I have made a lot of bad decisions and learned from them. Good luck and happy reefing!

 

[mjc041800]

2. Do you think that the petco ocean water has a good amount of minerals? I tried to find something on that on the internet, but I couldn't.

10. Have you had any problems? What about ich? Do you buy from a specific lfs, like what if I were to get some corals or inverts at petco where they put them with fish? Do you quarantine inverts?

13. How much vinegar do you use, and do you use it for everything?

I tried to reply to most of your questions. I hope it's helps a little! I am by no means a pro, but I have made a lot of bad decisions and learned from them. Good luck and happy reefing!

 

[Irishman360]

I am new at this as well but I will answer the best I can.

Let me start out with that I am very sorry that my post, threads, thoughts, questions, etc. are all over the place. I was told by many many people that I am going to fast and I am all over the place. I just had some questions but I know that there were too many. I am thankful for those of you that told me these things and those of you that still answered my questions. Really! I understand that you guys have a life(tank ) too. I learned to ask questions in one thread and too take it slow, but if you don't mind me asking what do you guys mean by taking it slow? Thank you for answering all my nooby questions and I am truly sorry if I agrivated you. I must be a pain in the butt[on] I hope you still have the time and hope I don't get you mad from these questions. I just could use some critiecs and experties. Thank you!

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"? Depends what type of coral you plan on keeping I guess.

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have? I haven't started corals yet so I can't answer this question.

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it. I've only been going to my LFS to get water. I recommend getting and RO/DI system. It will honestly save you money in the long run. I found a 6 stage, 100 GPD one on amazon for $150. Your system will pay for it self with in a year or less. It will cost you roughly .09 cents to make your own water per gallon where a LFS might charge $1.25 to $1.50 +/- few cents here or there.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk? I think this depends on how big the bio-load is going to be. If you have an overstocked tank you might want to do every week at 10%. When you start adding fish keep an eye on your parameters and test, that should tell you how often you should do a WC. Rule of thumb is 10% a week though.

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice? I think this comes with experience and how you would want your stuff to look. I have everything out of sight except the heater in the tank and a thermometer.

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution? PetCO/Petsmart has a background of either blue or black. Mine is roughly $2 a foot in length. I would check this out because it might cost you more to laminate your paper then to go out and buy some.

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights. Seems like you won't like softies, maybe just get one or two of them to hold you over until you can save up for better lighting to get LPS. You might be able to frag them out to help save for them as well. Either that or go with a fish only tank until you have enough money.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones? I personally bought a refractometer new which was $60, to measure my SG. I would ask to test it out and bring some RO water and SW (of known salinity), see if it zeroes out and test the SW that you brought.

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives? I have a clear glass top but will probably build my own from Home Depot using a screen and some frame, might run cheaper there.

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good? When I do start corals I think I am only going to do the drip method. Most of the LFS have a separate water treatment for LPS/SPS center.

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving? You have a long time to wait, Ghost feeding will help out if it takes a while for you to put a CUC or fish in it.

12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net? I don't use the same net. The only thing I use is a siphon tube for water changes/transfers/top offs. You could use bleach to disinfect the stuff and let it dry out COMPLETELY but I wouldn't chance it in case of ich break out.

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them? Bleach and COMPLETE dryness. QT sticky is a great read. Skater mentions something on it that you can use something after the bleach that will negate the bleach so it wont be toxic for fish.

14. Any good maintence tips? 10% WC, ATO or always look at your mark for fill line to keep stable water parameters. Magnet algae cleaner.

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa? Depends on how big your bio-load is. Might be a good idea for now since you are not running a sump. It wont hurt anything, you'll just have cleaner water.

16. Any other tips? Would be nice! I try to DIY my self for somethings. I always compare the price of what I want to how much it will cost for me to build and putting my time in it.

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend? Make sure when you put shrimp in do it in pairs and never put a smaller shrimp in second if you have a shrimp in the DT already.

Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

 

[mjc041800]

I am new at this as well but I will answer the best I can.

Thank you

 

[mjc041800]

I tried to reply to most of your questions. I hope it's helps a little! I am by no means a pro, but I have made a lot of bad decisions and learned from them. Good luck and happy reefing!

Thank you

 

[Doogy]

2. Do you think that the petco ocean water has a good amount of minerals? I tried to find something on that on the internet, but I couldn't.
I really don't know. Petcos around where I live (ohio) aren't good saltwater stores at all. I would have to do research on the water.

10. Have you had any problems? What about ich? Do you buy from a specific lfs, like what if I were to get some corals or inverts at petco where they put them with fish? Do you quarantine inverts?
From my experience, corals and inverts do not host ich. I have had zero problems with ich. I have had one brooklynella outbreak and lost a tang and clown. Only issue I have ever had. Or other infected fish in qt and they survived. I would qt every new fish with it any doubt. I dip corals in Revive and just acclimate inverts.

13. How much vinegar do you use, and do you use it for everything?

I usually dilute it probably 4 parts water to 1 part vinegar.

 

[Doogy]

Literally when you dip corals in Revive, you see worms just fall off and die.

 

[mjc041800]

ID? What are these dark strokes on my sand? And is that a crab hand or something at the right ?

 

[AZBigJohn]

Let me start out with that I am very sorry that my post, threads, thoughts, questions, etc. are all over the place. I was told by many many people that I am going to fast and I am all over the place. I just had some questions but I know that there were too many. I am thankful for those of you that told me these things and those of you that still answered my questions. Really! I understand that you guys have a life(tank ) too. I learned to ask questions in one thread and too take it slow, but if you don't mind me asking what do you guys mean by taking it slow? Thank you for answering all my nooby questions and I am truly sorry if I agrivated you. I must be a pain in the butt[on] I hope you still have the time and hope I don't get you mad from these questions. I just could use some critiecs and experties. Thank you! People telling you to "go slow" only mean that when you get overly excited (as you seem to be) you can make some pretty serious mistakes by either impulse buying something you aren't ready for, or trying to rush things up (like the cycle) that backfires and makes you start all over.

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"? While I am not aware of that light, I would think getting the 24" would be better. You will find most manufacturer estimates tend to be a little exaggerated, so if you need to try and stretch the light a little, you may find you aren't getting enough light.

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?
I agree with first responder. You should not have to dose anything once you are cycled until you have a LOT of corals. Water changes are primarily for replacing the minerals removed from the water by living organisms. Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate will get you through the cycle. Once you are adding corals, get test kits for Alkalinity, calcium and magnesium.

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it. If I remember seeing it once, it comes in a bottle in a box. If you keep the bottle, and go to another LFS, you might save a little on their store-made water. While I highly recommend an RODI setup, with a setup your size, you could get away with store bought water.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk? I would probably go in the middle. Since you buy water in 5 gallon containers, change out 5 gallons every week until you get everything totally stable.

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice? Not exactly what you mean by this. If you mean look less cluttered, maximizing the space under your stand, and possibly buying a similar designed "end table" that you can put stuff in always helps.

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?
I am a plain back wall person, but I would think wrapping paper would get wet and disgusting pretty quickly. A lot of people use the cheap window tint film sold at most auto part stores and say it looks fine. It only holds on with static, so it is easy to remove if you change your mind, and is also waterproof.

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.
Honestly, before you get tired of softies, you will get tired of the limits of your small tank. That will require upgrading everything. Once again, check here about any lights you consider, as what the manufacturer promises doesn't always hold up in reality.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?
Swing arm hydrometers are notoriously glitchy; from air bubbles throwing the arm off, to sticky arms, any refractometer is better. However, check to make sure that refractometer is for salt water, not beer-making; the beer-making ones are not as effective at the levels we use.

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?
Clear glass or plastic tops do not allow water to evaporate, and water to oxygenate with the outside air. Definitely get the BRS clear netting. You can buy regular screen window frames at Lowes or Home Depot for less than BRS. As for the Bowfront, it makes it a little harder to do, but it is still pretty do-able. I made the screen tops for my 165 bowfront. They may not be professional quality and match the curve flush completely, but they certainly do what they are designed to do.

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?
There really aren't any diseases I am aware of that target clean up crew/invertebrates. I do not QT them, but others may not agree with me on that. I do dip my corals in a coral dip, then rinse well, but I do not QT them either. As you get into acros and higher-priced SPS, you may decide it is worth it.

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?
Live rock is a function of what you put in the tank. As you add more bioload, more bacteria colonize the rock to meet the tank's needs. You might ghost-feed the tank a couple flakes every few days to keep something for the rock to attack, but if you have a clean-up crew in there, that should be enough to sustain it.


12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net? Both items are rather cheap (compared to everything else we buy) so I would get two of each. The entire point of QT is to observe the fish, treat any disease, and keep all of it out of your DT. You could rinse everything in a 10% bleach solution, and then make sure it air dries for at least 24 hours, but it would be easier to just get two.

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?
10% bleach solution and air dry for at least 24 hours. If you are overly cautious, get some dechlorinator and rinse it in that before air drying

14. Any good maintence tips? Get into a habit, and keep up on it. It is sooo easy to "forget" and get out of the habit, and your tank crashes

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?
Your biological filter is your live rock. As long as you have adequate water movement, you do not need the filter. A skimmer is great for pulling the excess organic material out of the tank, which reduces the bioload your live rock has to deal with.

16. Any other tips? Would be nice!
Absolutely NOTHING good happens quickly in a salt-water tank. That's why everyone tells you to calm down.
Be very careful how much you feed. over feeding leads to other problems
Never impulse-buy anything alive! Research it's full-grown requirements and make sure your current tank is able to meet those needs. Never get a fish with the plan to "upgrade later" Life ALWAYS happens.

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend? In that size tank, control the "I need a clownfish" desire. They can be bullies and limit other fish choices. I would think a goby/shrimp pair would be great to watch, and especially Yellow Watchmen gobies have great personalities. Maybe a flasher or fairy wrasse - colorful and always moving; For corals, Hammers, Frogspawn are easy to keep, colorful ane provide movement.

Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

 

[mjc041800]

10. How do you rinse your coral and inverts?

 

[AZBigJohn]

Inverts don't get anything but temperature acclimated. In they go. Coral gets dipped in one of the ready made dips sold in most LFS (I am totally brain cramping on a brand name right now). Basically you get two bowls of aquarium water. Put the dip solution in one by following the directions. Place the coral in the dip for 5 minutes, then into the second bowl to rinse. Shake a couple times to ensure the dip is off, then into the tank.

 

[mjc041800]

so I have this old log decoration from an old tank, if I put it in the QT as a hiding spot will it start to cycle?

 

[mjc041800]

Couple other questions but I didn't want to make a new thread:

1. Should I really even test for phosphate, people say yes and people say no? How do my I know my phosphates are a problem, without a test?

2. I've heard about a lot of people who don't quarantine there corals and inverts? Is this even safe, what about stuff like ich?

Thank you!

 

[Swensos]

Couple other questions but I didn't want to make a new thread:

1. Should I really even test for phosphate, people say yes and people say no? How do my I know my phosphates are a problem, without a test?

2. I've heard about a lot of people who don't quarantine there corals and inverts? Is this even safe, what about stuff like ich?

Thank you!

I'm pretty new too, so I hope I can help.

1. Testing for phosphate becomes more important with delicate corals. Another way to know if your phosphates are too high, rather than testing, is if you're having algae growth in your tank. More algae = more phosphates.

2. Not quarantining your fish is like playing Russian roulette with your DT fish. People get away with it for a long time, but it only takes one outbreak of something awful that kills off all your fish before you realize that having a QT tank is worth the extra effort. I've never had ich, but my tank once had parasites that took months to get rid of and killed a few of my favorite fish.

 

[mjc041800]

I'm pretty new too, so I hope I can help.

1. Testing for phosphate becomes more important with delicate corals. Another way to know if your phosphates are too high, rather than testing, is if you're having algae growth in your tank. More algae = more phosphates.

2. Not quarantining your fish is like playing Russian roulette with your DT fish. People get away with it for a long time, but it only takes one outbreak of something awful that kills off all your fish before you realize that having a QT tank is worth the extra effort. I've never had ich, but my tank once had parasites that took months to get rid of and killed a few of my favorite fish.

Thank you so much!

1. Do the phosphates harm the corals or other things?

2. What about your coral and inverts?

 

[Sk8r]

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"?

Hanging it higher reduces the strength of the light. Zone your specimens from high to low light.

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?

Alkalinity: test it daily once your tank has critters, to be sure how it behaves. Then you can test once weekly. Get an atO (AUTOTOPOFF) for salinity stability. Don't add things to your tank except alk buffer. Do your water changes. Once you have corals they will have their own requirements. And use Coral RX dip for corals, use box instructions.

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it. You're paying for water as well as salt, infused with plastic stuff from the jug.

Just get a box of good reef salt and a ro/di filter, which is an essential, or you will be hauling a LOT of water over your career.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk?

You can do 20% a month or 10% weekly. No, the math doesn't add, and 10% weekly is better, because slow change is always better in a reef.

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice?

Use a sump. CLose the stand doors.

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?

Put thin mirror back there, with Velcro stickie dots. See what that does.

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.

If you buy something you don't have light for it will die.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?

Refractometers cost about 50 and if you keep it dry between uses and don't store it next the salt water, it will last for years. Go with better.

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?

Cheaper than losing fish.

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?

Both DT and QT should have their own ATO. The alternative is to draw a line (eyebrow pencil) on the tank wall representing the water level when the salinity is perfect. Fill to that line morning and night and in between if you see a gap.

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?

pinch of fish food daily. If it produces ammonia you can see in tests, it's not cycled yet.


12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net?

NO. Do not have the qt sit within 10 feet of the DT either, so spray from inflow doesn't cross the gap. This includes rinsing your hands and drying thoroughly between tanks. beware of using hand lotions and perfumed soaps.

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?

Bleach, rinse. Vinegar, rinse. Dry completely, including setting pumps in the sun and letting them dry out. They hold water inside them.

14. Any good maintence tips?

Keep a log and write down the date and result of tests, new fish, new lights, etc.

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?

Filter removes particulate matter. Skimmer removes spare amino acids from the water. Reefs rely on live rock and don't use a filter.

16. Any other tips? Would be nice!

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend?

Start with hardy fish that do not grow much more at all. Aggression goes up as space diminishes. Blennies, gobies, but NOT any mandarin or scooter (which are called blennies and gobies but are NOT: they're dragonets.)

 

[mjc041800]

Do I really need an ato system, can't I do it manually? Since I use the real ocean water does it have stable salinity? Could I use my tap water with prime? Do lfs sell pure water or just saltwater?

 

[MD Aquatic]

Slow Down

Slow Down

Let me start out with that I am very sorry that my post, threads, thoughts, questions, etc. are all over the place. I was told by many many people that I am going to fast and I am all over the place. I just had some questions but I know that there were too many. I am thankful for those of you that told me these things and those of you that still answered my questions. Really! I understand that you guys have a life(tank ) too. I learned to ask questions in one thread and too take it slow, but if you don't mind me asking what do you guys mean by taking it slow? Thank you for answering all my nooby questions and I am truly sorry if I agrivated you. I must be a pain in the butt[on] I hope you still have the time and hope I don't get you mad from these questions. I just could use some critiecs and experties. Thank you!

Info of my tank: I have a 36 gallon bow front (30"L and 19"H) with a marine land penguin 280 hob filter with a bio wheel and a sea clone instant ocean protein skimmer that goes up to 100 gallons. No sump (yet) but I want to get one in the future, but right now it is too much. If you want you could give me some tips on making a sump or getting one, but you don't have too. I have to power heads that have the tank going in a circular motion. I have 30lbs. of porous live rock and 30lbs. of live sand(agri-something, I can't remember). My QT is about 5-10gal. with a small tetra 5-10 gallon filter, a small heater, and I plan to get a small power head and a led light fixture for the coral. I might put something a little higher in the QT for the coral to be on, closer to the light. I plan to get and hang a marsaqua led light fixture.

1. Do you recommend to get the 16" marsaqua led and hang it a little higher to get full coverage, or just get the 24"?

2. I was told by a bad lfs to start dosing all these supplements right away (reef complete, reef carbonate, iodide, strontium, marine buffer, and stability) for a while but I later learned that I shouldn't have so I stopped dosing all. And I am not dosing strontium or iodide any more. I don't plan to get stro. and iod. test since I won't be dosing them any more, should I have them tested at a lfs and find out if the levels are safe? Do you recommend to get separate dosing bottles? What dosing and tests should I absolutely have?

3. What do you guys think about pet Co real ocean water? I have been using it.

4. Do you recommend 10%WC 1xwk or 15% every other wk?

5. Do you guys have any tips on making you're tank and equipmen look really nice?

6. I was thinking about using blue wrapping paper as a background for my tank. I might get the chance to laminate it but probably not. What do think about using it? Would I be able to use the apply stuff/solution?

7. Do you think I would be happy with a softie only tank or will I eventually want lps or sps because of "how cool they are"? What is the lowest lighting/fixture (ex.?) possible for softies? I would only go a softie dominant tank to save money on the lights, but if I won't be happy having only softies (which I don't think I will) I will get the more expensive lights.

8. I saw a refractometer for about 20 bucks and it had the same accuracy rating as a hydrometer. Is it still better or is it a cheap one? If so what are the prices of the good ones?

9. So i plan to order a diy brs screen top kit and make one fit for my tank because it is really hard to find a clear top for it and they are a little pricy. I am going to do a little modifications but do you think i could do it? Any tips or cheap alternatives?

10. How are you suppost to keep stable needed water parameters/trace elements in a QT for corals and inverts? How much and how often should I do WC for the QT? What other maintence is needed for a QT? Would a small diy protien skimmer be good?

11. If I wait a little bit after the tank has cycled (like if I'm not ready or something) would I start to starve the lr and ls? How long would I have? How could I keep the live rock and sand from starving?

12. Is it OK to use the same siphon, net, drip container, etc. between your DT and QT? How would you clean/disinfect those? Do you know how to make a diy quick and cheap siphon or net?

13. How do you clean/disinfect a QT and everything with it after a disease, etc. was introduced? How do you clean it and make it safe for corals and inverts from the use of carbon and other bad things for them?

14. Any good maintence tips?

15. Do I really even need my filter if I have a skimmer? Would the tank be OK with just the skimmer? Or vise versa?

16. Any other tips? Would be nice!

17. Any cool, interesting , fun, etc. fish, coral, and inverts you recommend?

Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my questions!!!!!! Sorry it is sooooo long........

It seems like you are a lot like the rest of us when we first got started keeping tanks. You need to do this process slowly. Do a ton of research before the fact, not after. Ive found that during the cycling process you will answer a lot of these questions on your own and than you will have to come here for fine tuning. But I get it, its exciting so ill give y humble opinions that I feel confident in. Numbered for you to reference

3. Some people have success with the ocean water but I would just use your own RO/DI. You can't go wrong with having these units. They save a ton of money in the long run. I have the 75gpd value from BRS
4. You should figure out your constant water parameters with good test kits over a period of time. If you don't have consistent readings than change more water or change more often
5. If you want your tank to look nice keep as much of your equipment out of the main tank as you can, clean it regularly (glass) and make sure your very happy with your scape before you decide its set in stone.
6. I like to paint the outside of the back of my tank and any other sides that I don't view it from (i.e. if its in a corner or something), I use black spray paint.
7. It already sounds like you won't be happy with all softies
9. DIY screen tops are easy to make, don't doubt yourself, just take your time with any DIY projects
11. Your LR won't starve
15. Ive always run filters and skimmers and I don't have water problems as long as I keep up on regular maintenance