couple plumbing things needed
- Thread starter john37
- Start date
So Cal shaggy
New member
I cut my pipe with a radial arm saw with a blade that has at least 50 teeth per inch
problem:
i got (2) 1.5" bulkheads for the overflow w/the gasket side being threaded and the nut side being slip. But, i need the threaded side to be on the bottom(outside the overflow) because the piping that fits into the bulkhead, which leads into the sump, is threaded.
question:
if i put the nut side in the overflow and the gasket side on the outside part of the overflow is it more likely to leak?
if you cant picture it the bulkhead usually looks like this --> T but i need to put it upside down.
i hope i make sense.
i got (2) 1.5" bulkheads for the overflow w/the gasket side being threaded and the nut side being slip. But, i need the threaded side to be on the bottom(outside the overflow) because the piping that fits into the bulkhead, which leads into the sump, is threaded.
question:
if i put the nut side in the overflow and the gasket side on the outside part of the overflow is it more likely to leak?
if you cant picture it the bulkhead usually looks like this --> T but i need to put it upside down.
i hope i make sense.
JenDub
In Memoriam
hehe, ah yes PVC talk, my true love 
Be careful when you buy a true union 2" ballvalve, I bought one from ace for $50 and the union could not be opened with water in the sump. Not sure if this is typical or just an old design but I ended up not using it as a union, just a ballvalve! The problem was that when you opened the union, the ball part inside did not block the water fully, it was a loose fit so it leaked horribly.
I use extra large pvc cutters for 2" pvc, a simple hand saw and miter box would be fine, just not as fast as cutters. The cutters are 2-3 feet in length and look like a giant version of the normal cutters.
~Charles~
Be careful when you buy a true union 2" ballvalve, I bought one from ace for $50 and the union could not be opened with water in the sump. Not sure if this is typical or just an old design but I ended up not using it as a union, just a ballvalve! The problem was that when you opened the union, the ball part inside did not block the water fully, it was a loose fit so it leaked horribly.
I use extra large pvc cutters for 2" pvc, a simple hand saw and miter box would be fine, just not as fast as cutters. The cutters are 2-3 feet in length and look like a giant version of the normal cutters.
~Charles~
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
The bulkhead will work in either direction, but be sure that the gasket is always on the flange side; in this case it will be on the outside but should seal just fine. I usually use a second gasket just as extra reasurance...in other words, one against the gasket and one against the nut.
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
double post
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
I usually go through the plumbing isle (sink/vanity drains, etc.) and find a gasket that will work that is approximately the same diameter.
I don't use standpipes myself but there are plenty of designs out there if you do a search. I crank up the flow whereas air isn't allowed to flow into the drain and it silences my system perfectly
I don't use standpipes myself but there are plenty of designs out there if you do a search. I crank up the flow whereas air isn't allowed to flow into the drain and it silences my system perfectly
So Cal shaggy
New member
look in the plumbing aisle of lowe's they have gaskets I use the rubber gaskets that are made for toilets they have a tapered ridge on them so some of the gasket will actually fit inside the hole in the bulkhead and give you a completely watertight seal.
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