Cryptocaryon Irritans - tank transfer method

[Spar]

The cysts are hardened to a surface, so shouldn't be able to be scooped up. But I would still recommend not agitating any surfaces too much just in case.

I have asked the question before as well, but not sure anyone knows for sure if a cyst will die if it becomes dislodged.

Keep in mind they are microscopic as well so will be difficult for something like a colander to dislodge.

 

[snorvich]

The cysts are hardened to a surface, so shouldn't be able to be scooped up. But I would still recommend not agitating any surfaces too much just in case.

absolutely

I have asked the question before as well, but not sure anyone knows for sure if a cyst will die if it becomes dislodged.

No, they will not. But if you do dislodge it you will likely damage it with undetermined consequences.

Keep in mind they are microscopic as well so will be difficult for something like a colander to dislodge.

extremely unlikely

 

[chaaban]

Fish died, out of no where, started swimming funny and staying near the bottom (yellow tang) …..this fish ate like a pig, beautiful colouring and no visible signs of being even 1% un healthy.

Maybe it was the extra stress from doubling my number of transfers

 

[snorvich]

Fish died, out of no where, started swimming funny and staying near the bottom (yellow tang) "¦..this fish ate like a pig, beautiful colouring and no visible signs of being even 1% un healthy.

Maybe it was the extra stress from doubling my number of transfers

No. Transfers are not stressful.

 

[chaaban]

I really have no idea what may have happened but i won't discus this in this thread. I will try again with a new fish soon.

 

[andy01748]

I'm going to start TTM treatment because I think my fish may have ich.

On the initial transfer, I assume I should do drip acclimation? It seems to be a consensus in general that drip acclimation is used when transferring from one system to another to avoid shock (this is not specific to TTM). I thought slow acclimation wasn't just for differences in SG, but other parameters too, such as alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, etc. so that acclimation was necessary even if the SG and temperature match. (I assume pH differences shouldn't be an issue at SG 1.025)

Once this initial transfer is done, I don't need to worry about acclimation between the two tanks I'm using as long as the SG and temperature are equal. This is because all other conditions should be the same as both tanks will be using freshly made, uncycled, salt water. I would just transfer the fish directly, minimizing any water carryover, directly into the next tank, with no acclimation needed.

Please confirm. Thanks.

 

[Deinonych]

I only match temperature and salinity for TT - never had to drip/slow acclimate. Also make sure to aerate the new water overnight before transferring.

 

[appellativo]

I only match temperature and salinity for TT - never had to drip/slow acclimate. Also make sure to aerate the new water overnight before transferring.

I agree, you are just going to try to match the salinity and temp. I have never had a problem just doing that.

and yes, you got it. to transfer, I like to use a clear square critter keeper from petsmart. first I remove all but two inches of current tank water. Then I put the critter keeper in a corner, and use a net to sloooowly herd a fish into the critter keeper (hereafter referred to as ck). then I pour off most of the water to where the fish can hardly swim at all, then I hover over the new tank, and scoot him out (or pick him up) with my hand if I want to avoid abrasion). There is practically NO water transfer except a drip or two. and it is pretty stress free, better than chasing with a net and lifting out of the water for a few seconds.

 

[snorvich]

I only match temperature and salinity for TT - never had to drip/slow acclimate. Also make sure to aerate the new water overnight before transferring.

This.

 

[andy01748]

This.

Excellent. As long as I match SG, pH, and temp I can use tap water (with chlorine neutralizer) to make up my TTM change water. Saves me from having to lug up RODI from the basement!

 

[snorvich]

Excellent. As long as I match SG, pH, and temp I can use tap water (with chlorine neutralizer) to make up my TTM change water. Saves me from having to lug up RODI from the basement!

I never use tap water on any fish/tank related issues. Only RO/DI

 

[andy01748]

Ok. Guess I'll keep lugging! Thanks for the advice.

 

[Deinonych]

I never use tap water on any fish/tank related issues. Only RO/DI

+1

Too many unforeseen variables with tap water.

 

[chaaban]

Hey everyone, I have a couple questions if you don't mind.

In about an hour or so my trio of Lyretail Anthias (2 females, 1 male) will arrive in the mail from live aquaria. Last night i setup a 5 gallon bucket with HOB filter, an air pump, and a heater. I also have a second bucket which also has the equipment mentioned but won't have water in it until the night before the transfer.

I would like to know if performing the Tank transfer method will work for me and if i can use 5 gallon buckets for each transfer. I read somewhere that this is ok because its 3 day increments but I want to double check.

Thanks

 

[NTP66]

Hey everyone, I have a couple questions if you don't mind.

In about an hour or so my trio of Lyretail Anthias (2 females, 1 male) will arrive in the mail from live aquaria. Last night i setup a 5 gallon bucket with HOB filter, an air pump, and a heater. I also have a second bucket which also has the equipment mentioned but won't have water in it until the night before the transfer.

I would like to know if performing the Tank transfer method will work for me and if i can use 5 gallon buckets for each transfer. I read somewhere that this is ok because its 3 day increments but I want to double check.

Thanks

IMO, your only real issue is going to be observation, given that you'll only be able to see top-down. So long as you get the second tank setup and aerated before the actual transfer, though, I think you'll be fine. You probably don't need the HOB filter, either, unless you plan on feeding heavily (I wouldn't). A heater and an airstone should be more than enough for them for the 3 days that they'll spend in the bucket. You just need to monitor ammonia, or use something like Prime.

I personally went out and bought two 10g tanks from Petco during one of their sales for TTM alone, which worked out well.

 

[Spar]

IMO, your only real issue is going to be observation, given that you'll only be able to see top-down. So long as you get the second tank setup and aerated before the actual transfer, though, I think you'll be fine. You probably don't need the HOB filter, either, unless you plan on feeding heavily (I wouldn't). A heater and an airstone should be more than enough for them for the 3 days that they'll spend in the bucket. You just need to monitor ammonia, or use something like Prime.

I personally went out and bought two 10g tanks from Petco during one of their sales for TTM alone, which worked out well.

+1 - great advice

and I 2nd the point about the HOB. no need for that at all. the air stone will provide plenty of aeration. simple = better.

As NTP mentioned, for $20 you can get two 10g tanks from Petco and will be able to see the fish from all angles.

 

[chaaban]

thanks for the quick replays, its greatly appreciated!

I already purchased two HOB filters lol, is it ok to use them with just some new filter floss? If it can't do any harm then ill keep using it just because i already bought them…

Also the fish just came in the mail, they look amazing! i had the bags float in the bucket to adjust temp, and i put all three of them in the bucket. I will feed lightly but should i add ATI ammo lock to each transfer as soon as i put the fish in just to be safe? Or should i only use it when i detect ammonia? I feel like its better safe then sorry but not sure.

 

[Spar]

it is a sunk cost anyway (re: HOB filters). honestly they won't add any value and is just one extra piece of equipment to clean. i'd personally just save them for a rainy day, or just use them on whatever the post-TTM tank is. in smaller tanks, less flow may be preferred by the fish.

re: ammo lock - there should be no reason to add any yet as ammonia would not have built up yet. wait a day and test and then add if necessary. i generally just have a habit of adding amquel or prime after each second day of TTM.

 

[chaaban]

Thanks again, I will take your advice and follow your method of adding it to each tank transfer on the second day.

One last question regarding the ammo lock..... Is it generally the same thing as prime or Amquel?

 

[Spar]

good question. for the most part, ammo lock is just the API product that does the same/similar thing as Amquel or Prime, as they all detox ammonia. reading the ammo lock product description however it only mentions ammonia, not nitrite or nitrate... not that it matters with saltwater fish, but something to consider in product choice. your primary concern is ammonia though so ammo lock will do just fine.

i found this funny in the product description:

Eliminates fish stress...

I think 'may help with fish stress...' might be more accurate, but whatever; "eliminate" is a strong word considering what all 'stress' comprises in life.