CT 265 Build

I am familiar with Glenn Fong and his approach (though not the details), and it may yet prove to be sliced bread for the reef aquarium, but I have seen too many of these so-called innovative approaches over the years to be overly swayed by another new set of clothes for the emperor. Yes, his tank is impressive, but so are many not using the DSR method. Plus are there other tanks that demonstrate the scalability of his approach? But I am open to new approaches, and if they appear to be legitimate and reproducible, I'll play.

There are more ways to get a great tank. In short de DRS method is a method to keep 14 different elements in control. All elements within its own limits. Every element can be individually adjusted. One of the big differences in the DSR method is not doing waterchanges. Why waste good water.

In the Netherlands there are some beautiful thanks who are using DSR. DSR method is only available for a short time (under a year) on the dutch market, so the number of fullgrown beautiful tanks like GlennF's tank are limited.

There is a spreadsheet called dsrcalculator on www.dsrreefing.nl where you can find which elements are controlled and what the targetvalues are. Also there are some explanations what one element does. In DSR method the phosphate target is 0,04-0,08. When there are no measurable phosphates sps corals will bleach from the foot. That's what I experienced whit my sps because my target always was undetectable. I almost lost al my sps. I started (three months back) using partially the DSR method and saw my sps recover due to detectable phosphate levels. I now fully use DSR method because my tank is doing better by the day.

I'm not promoting DSR because there are many ways to keep a beautiful tank. But I think DSR has some answers for some of the problems a lot of us once had of still have. One of the answers for sps bleaching from the foot is too low phosphate levels.

I follow this tread for a long time and hope you will overcome this problem with whatever solution you will find. My reaction is just a suggestion to solve this problem. Wish you the best with your tank;)
 
worm5406 said:
dave.m -- ??
re. "test"

A user named slol posted, or tried to, and broke the thread so that it always appeared unread. I added a proper post at the end to see if that would mend it. It did.

Dave.M
 
That normally is because their post was flagged as possible spam and you have not seen the post yet so yeah, unread. LOL
 
Why is it that the nicer looking the frag, the greater the chance you will drop it down inside the rockwork? Got a sweet lime green chalice from a fellow reefer, and sure enough, dropped it. Arghh! Had to shift a few larger colonies to retrieve it - and snapped off a bunch of branches in the bargain. So, took the opportunity to reduce my softball-sized birds best to a more manageable baseball size, and have a bunch of new frags for grow out.

FWIW, getting much better polyp extension in my frag tank. Same lights, obviously same water, but no nippy fish.
 
Both are not true. The only thing I said in the post that was removed that there are more ways to keep a beautiful tank. And that I did have this problem of sps dieing from the foot. I almost lost all my sps. I just wanted to share that in my case too low phosphate levels where the problem. Since I keep them between 0,04 and 0,08 my corals are recovering.

I have an account on this forum to learn from the best tanks there are. I'm just reading a lot. When I saw this picture I just wanted to help with my suggestion.
 
Understood, and as I said, was just speculating on why it may have been removed .... anyhow, happy to have every and all opinion ..... never too old to learn a few new tricks.
 
Ten Months!

Ten Months!

Here are some updated pictures, from left to right, all taken without flash ...





..... and then 'the beast'.



I've been fragging stuff quite a lot lately, particularly the green birds-nest with a whitening base that I posted recently. Frogspawn and one torch continue to appear somewhat unhappy, though neither is dying, just not extending like they used to. I've relocated them a couple of times. One of my clams is looking a tad unhappy also. Combine that with the fact that frags in my connected frag tank show much more PE, and clearly something is nipping. I think all dwarf angels nip, whether you see it or not, just to varying degrees. I'll live with an unhappy coral or two if it means keeping a Flame and a Potters.

Speaking of Potters, although not intended for the big tank, here is my newest fish (10 days and counting).



PS - Apparently I cannot add, because it's only been NINE MONTHS! Oy!
 
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Wrasse Tank

Wrasse Tank

I am in the process of setting up my old 90 gallon as a FOWLR - mainly a wrasse tank, though perhaps a few other fish as well. It is amazing how much older gear one can accumulate, so really no incremental cost here other than some plumbing parts and electricity.




Stand will have to be skinned at some point, but tank will make a nice addition to my home office.

I've also decided to see if I can further elevate the performance of my skimmer. The chaps at MTC are going to make me a 48" main body as a replacement for the current 22" one. Longer contact time ought to result in better performance.
 
Sweet!! The Wrasse Tank is going to be really nice! I love the Potter's Wrasse. A LFS near me got in 3, but they didn't make it. They must have been caught with cyanide. All of them looked "off." But, I do love the colors of that Wrasse. Do you have a Potter's Angel as well?
 
I think keeping a potters wrasse is ALL about getting a good specimen. If they look ragged or are pacing the glass, pass. And, yes, potters angel in the big tank. I just really like the coloration. I'm also toying with getting a venustus angel - there was a pair on DD this week but the entry price was a bit too rich for my blood.
 
Fowlr

Fowlr

I suppose technically this ought to be a separate build since it is not connected to the 265 ..... but what the heck! Here is my 90 gallon FOWLR all filled with a pair of clowns as first residents. I'm using a canister that was pre-seeded on my main tank, so I do not expect any cycle.



Going for a very different look - much lower light, much more open (though I will be adding some more rock) and as a place to put all of my excess GSP :lol: Amazing thing is that I actually had all of the equipment I needed hanging around and water changes will be old water from the reef tank. Only incremental cost will be the electricity to run it - plus a few new fish!

Stand needs a plywood face (got some 1/2" maple ply laying around) and the cap needs a paint job. OK, I lied, I do need to by a screen for the top since I'm moving a bunch or wrasses in there shortly.
 
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