Cully's SCA 120 build





Pretty slick.

Mostly today was spent farting around with the wiring for adding 2 more T5 bulbs. Be running 4 total.
 
Looking forward to seeing this up and running, I have had my SCA 90 rimless for a few years now and I love it. I don't run the hood, but good lord I've had more fish jump out than I have currently in the tank.
 
Arghh I hate plumbing. I'm using PVC and trying to thread a needle so I don't have to saw holes into my stand and it's a PITA! Once it comes through the narrow opening in the back, then it has to land perfectly in to small area of the sump for the returns. Not easy to do!

I've tried working with spa-flex before and that ain't easy either!

I'm under the gun because I'm having arthroscopic shoulder surgery on Friday and plumbing after that will be virtually impossible bringing this to a screeching halt. Got weds night and Thursday to get it done. Tick toc Clairise...
 
Looks fun. I'm actually going to attempt to make my first manifold with colored PVC. Should be interesting.

I have to believe this picture was taken when you started..... Lets see the finished goods shot! ;)
 
I wish Dave...

I tried to salvage the gate valves from the previous tank but it's just not gonna work. If I can't find them locally I might be sunk. Otherwise I may build them with ball valves and swap them out.

Will do the manifold today. I've only been to lowes and HD like 5 times :rolleyes:
 
Try an industrial plumbing/pump supply place. I'm not sure how many of them sell small volume/retail stuff, but it's worth a shot. We've got one down here where I get most of my stuff that is too specialized for Lowes.
 
I ended up going through BRS, free shipping for Xmas. Build went temporarily on hold for my shoulder surgery, Xmas, and to await parts.

However, in one of my greatest feats as a DIY Reef guy I did manage to install a second ballast and set of 2 more T5s with ONE HAND! Ok my right shoulder is smoked but I can still work in close to my body to do simple wiring. It did take me 3 times longer than it should have but it's done!




May work on the scape a little while I wait for the last few pieces of plumbing to arrive. I did lose 2 power heads when I added a 2 valve manifold to feed my Ca reactor and my Media reactor. The Vectra M1 has some juice to spare and those are very low flow so I'm not stealing much, but I'm saving on power and outlets.




Also next up is to swap out the Vortech drivers for the QDs but that's not as important or urgent as getting the plumbing completed and water tested for leaks.
 
Sounds like surgery went well. Great!

Sounds like surgery went well. Great!

You can wire up aquarium lighting but you can't wrap Christmas presents? :)
Have fun aquascaping with one arm!
 
Looks like your lighting system is similar to mine. Right now I run 3 gen 2 radion pros over a standard 180 with one 5 foot t5 in front of the radions and one behind. I plan to add another both front and back for a total of 4 t5s. Do you have a plan for how you're going to run your lights? I would be interested in comparing programs/results once you're up and running.

Matt
 
I was thinking of turning the radions down to 20-30% but keeping the same lighting program.

I've got a Geissman Super actinic and coral blue (I think) in there now. Not sure what else I'm going to add. I'll have to look through their bulb selections a little more closely. I'll be running the two I have now for probably 10 hours then some sort of daylight configuration with the other two for maybe 3 hours initially then ramping up to 5 or 6.

What are you thinking?
 
Right now with two t5s ATI, coral plus and blue plus, I'm running them four hours a day and running the Radions at 50% max for 7 hours a day with 100% for UV, RB and Blue, 24% for white, green and red. I just turned down the Radions from the high 50s because of some bleaching of corals high on the rocks in the center of the tank. My new t5 retrofit will arrive tomorrow with another blue plus and coral plus. I have a par meter so my goal will be be to reduce the par somewhat in the middle/top of my tank and keep the par in other areas about the same. I'm guessing that, in order to do this I'll need to turn the radions down to 25-30% of max.

The guys at ABC were kind enough to let me play with my par meter in some of their tanks, including the main 180 tank. Their par toward the top of that tank was about 150 max before correction for the dispersion effect of the meter. After correction, you're looking at about 200 par, much lower than the par at the top of my tank, particularly under the center radion.

Matt
 
What were the numbers 2 feet down?

I've been doing some reading and used to run ATI Blue + bulbs in combo with MH bulbs. I have to compare the spectral graphs from Geissman and ATI. I already have 2 Geissman bulbs and they are available locally. However, I may just order 3 ATI Blue+ and a Purple +. May be too blue for some folks but I'm a "blue" guy. I find the 20K look aesthetically pleasing. Not so motivated by rapid growth these days.
 
Cully I'm with you on the bluer look. My 6 bulb ATi fixture was running 2 ATI true actinic and 4 ATI Blue Plus. Way to blue even for me. Now running 2 ATI Actinic 3 ATI Blue Plus. Still a little Blue. My New bulb combo next month will be all ATI bulbs, 3 Blue +, Coral +, purple + and Aquablue Special.

But with your Led fixture I'm curious how your bulb combo will look. I'll have to stop over when your up and running and bring you a frag or two of SPS thats really looking good in my tank ;).
 
When I was running the Radions and 2 T5s the Radions visually drowned out the blue of the T5s regardless of LED intensity. I suspect it will still happen with the 4 T5s. I was reading in the archives and a guy was looking to replicate Radium 20Ks. 3blue + and a purple+ was the recommendation.

As for free coral....YES PLEASE!
 
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