Custom hood for a 55 gallon?
- Thread starter NbMaxx13
- Start date
J. Montgomery
Mouth Pipetting
I got some pictures of mine, I'll try to post them in the next day or so . . .
Virginia Reef
New member
What type of canopy? Suspended from the ceiling? Sitting on top of the tank? Wall Mounted?
I have a 90 gallon (for sale) with a custom stand and canopy. The canopy sits on the top lip of the tank and has a door that swings out and up from the front. Lots of possibilities.
I have a 90 gallon (for sale) with a custom stand and canopy. The canopy sits on the top lip of the tank and has a door that swings out and up from the front. Lots of possibilities.
Virginia Reef
New member
Price on the 90 kind of depends on what's included. Here's some of what I have: 90g tank with internal corner overflow including standpipe, custom wood stand and hood (cherry type color) with small flourescent fixture in the cabinet, 48" light fixture with 2x175 watt MH + 4x35 watt (?) PC, Kent Nautilus TE skimmer or Seaclone, Red Sea wavemaker, 20g tank for sump, couple heaters, prolly have a couple MaxiJet powerheads and MagDrive pumps, electric feeder (for flake or pellet), and some other miscellaneous stuff.
$900 takes it all. The light fixture alone cost more than this!
$900 takes it all. The light fixture alone cost more than this!
Virginia Reef
New member
If a wooden hood...Any stain will do. The key is a good polyurethane or varnish finish. I have had good luck with Spar Varnish. "Spar" is a type not a brand. It's designed for use in a marine environment. My dad's a retired Admiral and accomplished woodworker. He turned me on to it for the stand and hood. I also used it on the access door above my current in-wall tank.
Here's a couple pics of my (empty) tank/stand/hood:
Here's a couple pics of my (empty) tank/stand/hood:
Virginia Reef
New member
Eric,
I'd be glad to take and post more detailed pics of the hood if that style is of interest.
I'd be glad to take and post more detailed pics of the hood if that style is of interest.
Virginia Reef
New member
Eric,
Want me to proceed with detailed pics or hold off til a decision is made?
Want me to proceed with detailed pics or hold off til a decision is made?
I'm just wondering....do you have enough room Paul if you lift that front hood open, is there enough room to add big chunks of live rock and what not with the space between the lights and the tank edge?
I'm thinking of making a hinged canopy that lifts up for ease of getting into the tank. Thanks for the heads up on the stain Paul because I was wondering which one would put on a nice even coat and look uniform.
What is there some sort of lacquer clear over the stain too?
I'm thinking of making a hinged canopy that lifts up for ease of getting into the tank. Thanks for the heads up on the stain Paul because I was wondering which one would put on a nice even coat and look uniform.
What is there some sort of lacquer clear over the stain too?
J. Montgomery
Mouth Pipetting
I built the frame of my canopy out of 1" x 2" (pine?), and the skin is 1/4" (birch?). I also added some decorative borders. The inside is covered in Kilz primer/sealant. The outside is stained. I didn't bother with a polyurethane seal b/c I made it in the winter and it was really cold outside.
Front of the canopy:
The front of my canopy comes completely off, and the lights flip up on a piano hinge:
It's open in the back and top for greater air flow:
The front of the canopy opens up like the Dalorian:
Front of the canopy:
The front of my canopy comes completely off, and the lights flip up on a piano hinge:
It's open in the back and top for greater air flow:
The front of the canopy opens up like the Dalorian:
J. Montgomery
Mouth Pipetting
Here it is before the tank move:
Sitting on the floor exposing its guts and insides during the tank move:
I started off with a single 4" fan, and then it turned into 2, and then those turned into 4. They all wired together to a variable voltage transformer (to run them quieter) and controlled by the temp. probe on my AC Jr.:
Sitting on the floor exposing its guts and insides during the tank move:
I started off with a single 4" fan, and then it turned into 2, and then those turned into 4. They all wired together to a variable voltage transformer (to run them quieter) and controlled by the temp. probe on my AC Jr.:
Virginia Reef
New member
My opening is plenty for all but the very largest pieces of LR. The light fixture sits on an internal rim that is above the top of the opening.
The finish as just regular stain (minwax I believe). The key is to coat the finish with polyurethane or varnish. Mine has spar varnish as mentioned above. There are prolly 3 coats of spar varnish over the stain.
I put 5 or 6 coats of spar varnish on the inside of my access door on my current tank with paint on the outside. It should be impervious to water and the effects of salt for approximately ever.
The finish as just regular stain (minwax I believe). The key is to coat the finish with polyurethane or varnish. Mine has spar varnish as mentioned above. There are prolly 3 coats of spar varnish over the stain.
I put 5 or 6 coats of spar varnish on the inside of my access door on my current tank with paint on the outside. It should be impervious to water and the effects of salt for approximately ever.
Virginia Reef
New member
Josh,
I like tour tank design for really major access but how is the front for minor things like feeding? The door on mine is hung on a piano hinge and it's really simply to open. I use a plastic spring loaded hand clamp (a buck or two at Lowes) to fasten the door up in the vertical position if I don't want to hold it.
For the really big access, I'd have to remove the entire top. This takes 2 people of course and most wives don't count...at least mine doesn't. But I rarely needed to remove the top.
The top of mine is open but all 4 sides are solid. This is GREAT if you have wrasses or other fish that are prone to jump.
I like tour tank design for really major access but how is the front for minor things like feeding? The door on mine is hung on a piano hinge and it's really simply to open. I use a plastic spring loaded hand clamp (a buck or two at Lowes) to fasten the door up in the vertical position if I don't want to hold it.
For the really big access, I'd have to remove the entire top. This takes 2 people of course and most wives don't count...at least mine doesn't. But I rarely needed to remove the top.
The top of mine is open but all 4 sides are solid. This is GREAT if you have wrasses or other fish that are prone to jump.
