d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build

I have been out of the hobby for 6 years....reading this thread is like a crash course in new tech since i left the hobby.

I had full intention if going back to a CaRx, but I think I will likely give the Triton method a try as well. Like you, I also tried many methods, and finally landed on CaRx with AWCs. You and I share a great many tank methodologies, and the trace element concern was ALWAYS top on my mind. I also did zeo for a while, but i had real issues paying huge money to dose a bunch of "color in a bottle", that claimed to do magic. I find it really exciting that there are now ways to test for those traces and take proper action. While I am not uber excited about going back to a dosing system, and the extra maintenance involved. If that method makes me comfortable that I am running NSW levels of everything, and I have the ability to determine what is off and fix it... I am all for it. I very much subscribe to the montra that you dont dose what you dont test for....this is a game changer!

Thank you :)
 
MrsReefK said:
Long time lurker, first time posting on your threads. Typically don't post because everyone else is saying it - amazing build! Looking forward to it coming to life.

Man, when did Radions start using the black bricks vs white powder supplies? We have 5 gen 3 pros produced in Nov 15 and have whit supplies [emoji19].
Click to expand...
Thanks for commenting. :)
The new bricks started shipping about a month or two ago maybe?
Pretty recent.

ReefCowboy said:
I really like the "surprise" leds for your tank, since it will once and for all answer what everyone needs to know: can leds really do as well as we expect(and as promised).

1- If it does well, then we should all be confident in the technology, you have a brand new tank docummenting all steps. Everyone should be able to witness its progress.

2- if the sps seem short of coloration or growth expectations after months or years, then try a different light and documment any changes.

Either way, a call from Ecotech was noble and worth a try!
Good luck
Click to expand...
Yep, that's pretty much the gist of it.
Thank you. :)

I'd love this to be a case of an LED user who once had a poor experience and was able to turn that around and be a able to share whatever it is that made the difference.

Horace said:
I have been out of the hobby for 6 years....reading this thread is like a crash course in new tech since i left the hobby.

I had full intention if going back to a CaRx, but I think I will likely give the Triton method a try as well. Like you, I also tried many methods, and finally landed on CaRx with AWCs. You and I share a great many tank methodologies, and the trace element concern was ALWAYS top on my mind. I also did zeo for a while, but i had real issues paying huge money to dose a bunch of "color in a bottle", that claimed to do magic. I find it really exciting that there are now ways to test for those traces and take proper action. While I am not uber excited about going back to a dosing system, and the extra maintenance involved. If that method makes me comfortable that I am running NSW levels of everything, and I have the ability to determine what is off and fix it... I am all for it. I very much subscribe to the montra that you dont dose what you dont test for....this is a game changer!

Thank you :)
Click to expand...
haha, yep... sounds like you and I are on the same page. :)
 
UPDATE 5-19-16

We're down the very last piece of the puzzle before the tank gets wet! :)

Yesterday I finished running the water lines from the outdoor mixing station.
This is a trick that goes back to my old 36" cube days.
I drilled a small hole through the house, ran the two water lines (fresh and salt) through the hole, and then behind the baseboard molding.
As you can see in the pics below, once everything is put back in place, no one can tell!
I also ran a third line from the sump and through the wall directly behind the tank.
The powder room pedestal sink is against that wall so I will eventually tap into the drain.

This is the setup I would normally be using for my Auto Water Change system.
Since the Triton Method doesn't require water changes on a regular basis, it won't get used much. Just the ATO line.
But it's there if I need it. It will take a while to do a large change, but shouldn't be too big of a deal.
In an emergency I have a 45g Brute on wheels that I can use to do it the old fashioned way.

Meanwhile, 55g of Tropic Marin Pro SW is currently mixing, and another 55g of RO/DI is being made.
Woot! :)

i-xCBrW9K.jpg


i-2CcVfRg.jpg


i-DXgGdLz.jpg




Here's the water lines connected to the sump, right behind the skimmer.

i-QF6z3Q7.jpg



The other part of this is ATO.
Since I'm tight in space in the stand, I've decided not to use the Cole-Parmer peristaltic pump that I have.
I still have an extra old PowerBar for my GHL Profilux so I'm going to put that outside in the mixing station shed with a standard hobby pump inside the RO tank.
I'm going to be running that flat style Cat6 cable between the PowerBar and the stand.
It will be going through the same hole in the house but since it's flat, I'm just going to run it along the baseboard molding and/or bundled with those two extension cords.
I know from experience that there's really nothing to go wrong with the water lines, so once those are hidden they are good for years.
But the Cat6 cable could get damaged so in order to avoid having to pull molding again, especially behind the tank, it's going to remain exposed... but tidy.

Next stop.... filling the tank! :bounce2:
 
Looks great Dennis. Another item to steal.

I looked up the power supplies for the Radions and they must have changed the female plug out of the Radion since the new power supplies have the smaller round male plug not the large female plugs.

Too bad since I was hoping to get rid of the large power supplies
 
This is awesome. Can't wait to see how the Radions work out. Wonder how many of them would be needed on a 210g that's 6 feet long.
 
I do a similar approach when running speaker wire in homes when helping family with installs. Trim is so easy to fix and make good again.
 
I have been lurking for awhile and this is my first time posting. Your tank build has been an inspiration to me. I'm currently building a 150g that I got from a LFS that closed down. I will post soon with a timeless of the progress.

I have modified several of my plans since I started reading your build and also looking at your last 200g build. Maybe you mentioned it somewhere else on the thread but I am curious about this Triton Method. How does this work exactly or is there somewhere I can go to find out more about it? I'm very intrigued.

Well best of luck and I am looking forward to seeing the water go in! Mine should be getting filled next week as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How that sump work out for you cause I am thinking to get that for mine too but idk that would be too much for fuge or not


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BMorgan said:
I have been lurking for awhile and this is my first time posting. Your tank build has been an inspiration to me. I'm currently building a 150g that I got from a LFS that closed down. I will post soon with a timeless of the progress.

I have modified several of my plans since I started reading your build and also looking at your last 200g build. Maybe you mentioned it somewhere else on the thread but I am curious about this Triton Method. How does this work exactly or is there somewhere I can go to find out more about it? I'm very intrigued.

Well best of luck and I am looking forward to seeing the water go in! Mine should be getting filled next week as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks for posting! :)
Glad you are able to get some help from my threads. Always good to hear that.

Unfortunately ReefCentral holds grudges and won't let me link you to the other major reef forum where TritonUSA has a sponsor forum. There are some good threads there that you may find useful.
You can also take a look at this Triton For Dummies article. Gives a pretty good explanation of the whole thing.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8ekcxxfujq1ql4/The unofficial Triton Method for Dummies.pdf?dl=0

Datnguyen said:
How that sump work out for you cause I am thinking to get that for mine too but idk that would be too much for fuge or not
Click to expand...
Sorry, I'm not really sure what you are asking?
I had this sump custom made to my specs, including that size refugium.
 
Thanks for the links to the study and the different programs. I just uploaded the SPS AB+ template to my set up. We'll see how it does on my Gen 3's.
 
Remind me installing my wood floor days. Hope Mrs D2mini didn't panic about you taking baseboard apart. :P
Are you just using a float switch to turn on and off your ATO?
 
I see you plan on using Avast's spyglass reactor...good call. I own one and love it.
Are you adding stirrers for the dosing containers(therefore their shape)?
 
zzl630 said:
Remind me installing my wood floor days. Hope Mrs D2mini didn't panic about you taking baseboard apart. :P
Are you just using a float switch to turn on and off your ATO?
Click to expand...
haha, nothing panics the Mrs anymore. ;)
My Profilux will control the ATO with an Optical Level Sensor.
I also have a mechanical one for backup.
Somehow in the move I seemed to have lost my Optical one (of course the more expensive one) so I just ordered a new one and the acrylic rod to hold both of them in the sump.

ReefCowboy said:
I see you plan on using Avast's spyglass reactor...good call. I own one and love it.
Are you adding stirrers for the dosing containers(therefore their shape)?
Click to expand...
Good to know! Thanks. :)
I could have gotten the GHL magnetic stirrers but none of the Triton Elementz require stirring once they have been mixed.
 
I'm looking at Triton now (thanks for the links).

Did you ever consider an algae reactor (ARIAD) instead of a large fuge? I'm worried that my fuge in my new sump won't be large enough for Triton, hence the inquiry into ARIAD.
 
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