Do you think 2 Mars hydro is overkill for my fuge? I have two seperate compartments and was planning on growing Chaeto in one and Caulerpa in the second chamber.
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d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build
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Do you think 2 Mars hydro is overkill for my fuge? I have two seperate compartments and was planning on growing Chaeto in one and Caulerpa in the second chamber.
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mpderksen
New member
Anything specific you'd like to know?
Right now things are just humming along.
Tested today. Alk was 8.1, Calc 430 and Mag 1280.
Everything is dosed in equal amounts. Easy peasy!
Glad you are finding it successful. I am curious about how you dial in the doses, and maybe how often you test. I seem to struggle a little with 2-part. Levels dip, I up the amount, overshoot and have to back off.
Alfrareef
New member
Looky what just showed up, direct from Ecotech.
Weekend project!
Hi Dennis,
Love your tank and this thread but reading this post I'm confused.
Probably you already mentioned, but I didn't noticed so I would like to know if you are being sponsored by Ecotech and/or any other Companies?
Rgds,
AR
d2mini
Premium Member
Yeah, two-part in my office nano is all over the place. It takes way more alk than calc, and using simple timers on it sucks. Levels all over the place.
So far, running Triton has been much more akin to running a Calcium Reactor.
I just test Alk every few days (now that its dialed in) and make sure that hasn't changed. Everything else falls in line so I check calc and mag much less often.
If Alk drops, I make an across the board adjustment. I don't need to check the others first.
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
You have a very deep voice for a little blond haired girl.
ETA- Impressive growth of chaeto.
Is that just a giant pod factory as well?
Did the apple juice or dumbbell dislodge any detritus? It didnt look like it really did in the video which is why I ask.
ETA- Impressive growth of chaeto.
Is that just a giant pod factory as well?
Did the apple juice or dumbbell dislodge any detritus? It didnt look like it really did in the video which is why I ask.
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Nick James
New member
Hi Dennis,
Was wondering if you had a list of macros in your fuge? Are there any that you would consider "pest" varieties that you would have avoided if you started it over? And any you definately recommend?
I would love a place to start to learn more about different macros. Thanks in advance!
Was wondering if you had a list of macros in your fuge? Are there any that you would consider "pest" varieties that you would have avoided if you started it over? And any you definately recommend?
I would love a place to start to learn more about different macros. Thanks in advance!
Hi, very informative tank built. Can I ask you, what is the logic, of not removing the excess of chaeto?Having a little fun with the refugium.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/H7nk_NUXx0s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
d2mini
Premium Member
I know, right? I've been trimming my garden for years.
Wait a minute... what are we talking about again? :worried:
:lol:
I can only assume that it's full of pods.
Yes there is detritus in there. I think you can see it in the beginning when I stick my hand in and pull it back away from the front glass.
I'm sure a little of it flowed out when I dropped the heavy stuff in.
Not sure what is actually in there now, but I originally added the chaeto, Hypnea Pannosa, Red Gracilaria, Laurencia iridescens, Bryothamnion, Codium and Halimeda.
As it reaches capacity, blocking too much light from getting to parts of it, or not having enough nutrients to sustain it, it starts to die off releasing sugars and other nutrients back into the tank. Like natural carbon dosing.
Then it grows again. Rinse, repeat.
rovster
New member
Interesting. I did that once and then I had a massive die off of chaeto which then resulted in me finding out the hard way how efficient it is lol. Interesting concept though. I applaud you for seeing it through. My concern was always as it gets ultra dense flow gets blocked to certain areas and light doesn't penetrate. So I always fluff and flip my mass every so often. A huge amount of detritus gets released so I use a filter sock when I do this.
In the past my fear was always that the mass would get so big it would starve itself out. Maybe something else happened to me? I'll be following. Are you dosing anything specifically to sustain the large mass of chaeto? Iron? Nitrate? Sorry I'm not up to date on your build. Glad I saw this though....
In the past my fear was always that the mass would get so big it would starve itself out. Maybe something else happened to me? I'll be following. Are you dosing anything specifically to sustain the large mass of chaeto? Iron? Nitrate? Sorry I'm not up to date on your build. Glad I saw this though....
Is this natural carbon dosing recommended by triton, or is it you experimenting?
I always thought that during lights off, macros are excreting some DOC, anyway...
d2mini
Premium Member
The Triton Elements that are being dosed do provide stuff specifically for the algae bed.
Some people have noticed issues with algae in the display when running Triton so I'm keeping an eye out for anything like that.
Yes, this is what Triton recommends.
d2mini
Premium Member
So i just tested my PAR again just to make sure I was close to where I was before with the G3's now that the G4's have been up for a week.
I had lowered the overall intensity from 95% down to 80% and I'm still getting slightly higher numbers with the G4's.
But what is really interesting is that the PAR actually INCREASES as you go away from the center of the puck!
In other words, if I start with the par meter directly under the puck, and then move it towards the front glass, this PAR increases as it gets closer to the glass.
And this effect becomes more pronounced the farther down I go.
Up high, there is little change or the par numbers decrease like you would expect.
But as you go farther down, par increases as you go out.
Example.... around midway in the middle of the tank my par is somewhere around 250.
In the middle of the tank but close to the glass, my par is still around 250.
Closer to the sand bed, directly under a puck, my par is 220.
Closer to the sand bed and at the front glass, par is 240!
Very very interesting.
I would say that overall, with the G4's I have a more even spread of PAR across the entire tank.
Here's the before and after. And this is with lowering the overall G4 intensity slider from 95% to 80%
The blue numbers are near the sand bed at the front glass.
The yellows are as close to the center of the tank as I could get.
I had lowered the overall intensity from 95% down to 80% and I'm still getting slightly higher numbers with the G4's.
But what is really interesting is that the PAR actually INCREASES as you go away from the center of the puck!
In other words, if I start with the par meter directly under the puck, and then move it towards the front glass, this PAR increases as it gets closer to the glass.
And this effect becomes more pronounced the farther down I go.
Up high, there is little change or the par numbers decrease like you would expect.
But as you go farther down, par increases as you go out.
Example.... around midway in the middle of the tank my par is somewhere around 250.
In the middle of the tank but close to the glass, my par is still around 250.
Closer to the sand bed, directly under a puck, my par is 220.
Closer to the sand bed and at the front glass, par is 240!
Very very interesting.
I would say that overall, with the G4's I have a more even spread of PAR across the entire tank.
Here's the before and after. And this is with lowering the overall G4 intensity slider from 95% to 80%
The blue numbers are near the sand bed at the front glass.
The yellows are as close to the center of the tank as I could get.
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