d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build

Having a little fun with the refugium. ;)
Lol! Nice! Awesome!

I can give a little perspective of how much it will, our mine held.. Before I moved, my a.c.was on the fritz, so I had to use gallon jugs of ice to cool the tank, or assist with it.. I could add a single jug and it would just begin to sink.. I think that is about 10lb.. Not sure how it relates to yours, simply because your depth is greater than mine..

Awesome video though!

The only thing I would do, and did, honestly, but again, your depth is more than mine(mine is only 10" deep). Is the light colored or bleached, I used to pull that off the top.. For me, it was more of it bugged me, but, I used to also, honestly, just push or smash it down sometimes, if I didn't want to pull it, as an experiment..

You want to know something dude though.. Lol, you could do a higher wattage unit.. Or even another unit, with optics.. And I'm saying that, simply because your depth is great, in combination with your going to keep it like that. I pretty much grew it, and kept it fairly trimmed..

But long term thick growth, like your doing, I'd invest in a couple simple things.. First,a small clip on fan.. And by small, i mean 6 or 8 inch.. Once again, hydro equipment.. I use and have always used air king fans.. They are cheap, and very reliable.. I had it plugged into the apex, so it only came on, when the cheato light was on.. And you want to aim it actually at the space between your light and the water surface(another little trick you can tell me about the results later).. [emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16]

lol, next,a 400 to 600 watt unit.. Only because your growing it to keep it constantly thick.. You can use the extra wattage.. I would do a 600.. If your interested, let me know, and I'll give you the info for mine and the company I'm using right now..

Your really making more want to grow cheato again.. And I tried, but something is very different. I'm using right now using the bucket, because my goofy strawberry hermit is actually eating the life out of any cheato I put in the fuge(he destroyed a 3"ball in two days, on top of a decent piece of red dragon). So I'm doing external..

But let me know though.. And what your finding with the nutrient levels is extremely normal with that kind of lighting and the cheato growth like you have... You don't have to harvest a lot, because your right, us going to keep pulling and pulling, and then, like the triton folks said, it's a wonderful little trade off between the photosynthesis hours and resting hours.. But if you decide to pull some, actually, pull and harvest from the top, as strange as it sounds..

I loved the video though.. It was quite comical.. Loved the egg throw! Lol!

from note 7
 
Why didn't you just set the G4 to 95% for a better comparison?

Because a par comparison wasn't my intent, nor is it a concern of mine since I was getting more than enough par with the G3.
I just wanted to see what the spread was like.
The only reason I borrowed the meter again was to make sure I wasn't frying my coral.
 
Because a par comparison wasn't my intent, nor is it a concern of mine since I was getting more than enough par with the G3.
I just wanted to see what the spread was like.
The only reason I borrowed the meter again was to make sure I wasn't frying my coral.

Also, not speaking for D2 again, this is why a lot of new users of LED's (off shelf and DIY packages) fry their corals or don't find success. It isn't the color spectrum that disrupts or fries them but the intensity. Not all LED's are the same quality or use lenses so it is always best practice to start lower on the intensity / power scale and slowly ramp up over time until corals are happy.

Then you adjust color spectrum to meet your taste and tune for growth. Some products have coral acclimation settings or you can add it to your controller code. That is at least what I do and let the controller handle it.
 
Because a par comparison wasn't my intent, nor is it a concern of mine since I was getting more than enough par with the G3.

I just wanted to see what the spread was like.

The only reason I borrowed the meter again was to make sure I wasn't frying my coral.



D2 do you use a Seneye at all?


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Not sure what is actually in there now, but I originally added the chaeto, Hypnea Pannosa, Red Gracilaria, Laurencia iridescens, Bryothamnion, Codium and Halimeda.

Thanks! I am looking to build my own sump with acrylic which leaves me some options with the lay out. I may seperate the cheato into its own section and have some of the other macros you mentioned seperate so it doesn't get choked out. Especially the red gracilaria, home grown fish food!
 
That makes more sense...but he still got higher par numbers at a lower setting, why go higher at that point?
 
He just wants to see the difference in par between the two at equal intensities. Makes sense.
But I wasn't even planning writing down the measurements, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't frying my coral. I had already dropped the intensity because I could see that the G4's were brighter. But then when I started seeing the increase in par when moving towards the glass, I started jotting them down and figured I'd share.
 
My guess on why the par is higher towards the front just has to do with surface movement. You'll have more of it in the back because your flow is coming from the back. So I bet you have slightly more surface agitation in the rear and it gets slightly less as you move to the front of the tank. Unless you had your pumps off when you took the readings.


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My guess on why the par is higher towards the front just has to do with surface movement. You'll have more of it in the back because your flow is coming from the back. So I bet you have slightly more surface agitation in the rear and it gets slightly less as you move to the front of the tank. Unless you had your pumps off when you took the readings.


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Yep, all pumps were off. The water has to be completely still to get the meter to settle on a number. Otherwise it's bouncing all over the place.
 
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