detritus free sump??

I was in a bit of a rush this morning getting everthing ready and off to school so i only breezed over the post when i commented........

the rock holding tank has curing rock in it, if anything it has more biological activities/organisms/bacteria then a reef system with much better water quality.

if need be I'll even do the test on an established reef system, i find it highly doubtful that the results will be any different.

you're at 3/4 of a mile, call the ball.
 
JetCat doesnt play away around folks. He'll bust out the camera and tools in a second, so watch out :)

(Hey, how's that phosphate media thread going?)
 
Reality > Talk
JetCat > Awesome

:)

Well done. I don't suspect the suggested changes will be much different (although guppies are a lot smaller). I'm interested to see for sure though.
 
Jetcat, do you have a control? Did you leave one sitting on the bottom of the sump?

Because if not, none of that means anything.
 
why would i need one in the bottom of the sump? you said yourself if left in the bottom of the sump it wouldn't decompose and would just sit there waiting for a bug to come along and consume it of for myself to siphon it off..........

please be as detailed as you can on EXACTLY how it is i need to complete the test again. on the guppy, male or female?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10557336#post10557336 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JetCat USA
why would i need one in the bottom of the sump? you said yourself if left in the bottom of the sump it wouldn't decompose and would just sit there waiting for a bug to come along and consume it of for myself to siphon it off..........

No, I didnt say that. I said it would decompose quicker in the filter sock. If you want to have this discussion, stop putting words in my mouth.

If you want the controlled experiment, heres how you do it:


2 10G tanks, fresh new saltwater. No live rock. Covered, so that theres little to no evaporation.

In one, you put a mag5, with a filter sock attached to its output, with a silverside in the sock. Use a couple of fittings and bring it out to 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 " PVC so that the mag doesnt just shred the silverside.

in the other, you put just a 50w heater, and a silverside. Try to make the silversides the same size.

Test Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate in each tank at given intervals. (test initially too, to set a baseline, although they should be 0-0-0-0)

Putting the 50w heater and 50w pump should keep the temp the same in both tanks. The only difference will be flow and the filtersock.
 
OK then but that's gonna take a while to get setup.........in the meantime just for grins and giggles what kind of fish do i need to get and put in the filter sock on my reef that's currently up and running to have it decompose to just a skeleton in a few hours??
 
with me, it was an royal gramma.


800gph flow, sitting in a filter sock, half in, half out of the water. FWIW, the part that was out of the water decomposed faster.

The tank was an SPS tank, big skimmer, ozone, etc. I dont think ozone was directly a factor, because the half life of ozone in salt water is about 6 seconds, and theres no way water makes it from my skimmer, up my return, and down the drain in 6 seconds. High redox may have played a role.
 
OK so i need to get a RG (does cause of death play a part here?), stick in in the sock of my 75 (ORP 425mv avg), fix the fish so it's partly out of the water, or would mostly out of the water speed it up? i want the fastest possible way to get it to turn to a skeleton.

i can also add an airstone to the O3 generator and place that directly into the sock if you think it'll speed up the process?? it's a 200mg/hr unit but has no drier on it so it's likely around 75mg/hr??

I've got an Iwaki 40RLXT on the return and most likely a bit over 800gph, it's got a gate valve and i can dial that back if you think necessary?? I'd think the more flow the better, your thoughts???
 
Can I get the nitrate readings on the tank after those few hours? Sorry to hijack, but how do you like that nitrate monitor...if it is accurate I must have one.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10557923#post10557923 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Serioussnaps
Can I get the nitrate readings on the tank after those few hours? Sorry to hijack, but how do you like that nitrate monitor...if it is accurate I must have one.

it's bouncing between 22 and 23 ppm.

i like the monitor, like the PO4 monitor i like knowing my levels and not playing a guessing game of exactly what shade of pink is that sample :confused:

the only thing i don't like about the PinPoint is the calibration. it's time consuming, takes about 5 min to do it right and in order to prevent contamination to the calibration solutions i toss the used out every time, and you have to calibrate every time you turn the meter on or swap ranges.

I've got the Hanna colorimeter for PO4 and if i had it to do over, I'd get their NO3 colorimeter instead of the PinPoint monitor, it's about 100 bucks cheaper then the PinPoint too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10556446#post10556446 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by philpot
JetCat thanks for the doing that test. I think it has convinced me to use a filter sock. Could I fully emerse the sock and "tie" it to the end of my overflow pipe - this might become a pain to keep cleaning though?

Buy more socks.......I have about 10, I rotate them around. I have 75 micron, 100 micron and 150 micron. I prefer 100 micron...150 lets things threw. I run a BB tank so I am far from the natural oh I am scared pods will get trapped and other concerns people have. FWIW, I change my socks every 2 days and when I get 3 dirty ones I just rinse them in the washing machine/or washer, whichever one my girlfriend isnt using.

Another Issue one must be very careful of and I know from experience, is the clogging or letting it get to tight around the plumbing. Water will back up in your overflow box and flood out of the tank onto the floor. Yeah I am a dummy.:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10558169#post10558169 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JetCat USA
it's bouncing between 22 and 23 ppm.

i like the monitor, like the PO4 monitor i like knowing my levels and not playing a guessing game of exactly what shade of pink is that sample :confused:

the only thing i don't like about the PinPoint is the calibration. it's time consuming, takes about 5 min to do it right and in order to prevent contamination to the calibration solutions i toss the used out every time, and you have to calibrate every time you turn the meter on or swap ranges.

I've got the Hanna colorimeter for PO4 and if i had it to do over, I'd get their NO3 colorimeter instead of the PinPoint monitor, it's about 100 bucks cheaper then the PinPoint too.

Thanks, Ill likely just order both at the same time. The ATI powermodule(10 bulb) is going to drain my funds though if I can bump up the reefgeek list.

Anyways, this pertains to you and Rich...If the said fish is partly out of the water and part in the water then yeah it will decompose and break down much faster. This is a no brainer, however, if the bottom part of the filter sock and things in it are completely submersed then I see no difference in something sitting in that and something sitting on the bottom of the sump. Its kind of a practical way to look at it, but it really is common sense.

I dont worry myself with this breakdown as the water that comes out of the filter sock goes into my skimmer, through carbon, and then through a GFO reactor so blah blah..that and i change out socks often.
 
i think we're getting to the bottom of Rich's posting habits, he just reported his has a 6.2 degree temp fluctuation daily and that 'Works For Me'

seams obvious that Rich isn't the everyday run of the mill reefer and things for him don't work like they do for the rest of the world.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10558763#post10558763 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JetCat USA
i think we're getting to the bottom of Rich's posting habits, he just reported his has a 6.2 degree temp fluctuation daily and that 'Works For Me'

seams obvious that Rich isn't the everyday run of the mill reefer and things for him don't work like they do for the rest of the world.

I do on some days.


Temperature stability is a ridiculous concept, and doesnt jive with what happens in Nature. Do I really need to start posting temperature readings from Palau, Fiji, etc? We've gone into this more than once.

There is significant scientific evidence that stable temperatures decrease coral's ability to deal with fluctuations.


As to my posting habit, yeah, I like to call out people who make [profanity] claims with nothing to back them up. Wheres your evidence that a 6 degree fluctuation is a bad thing?
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10558826#post10558826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
As to my posting habit, yeah, I like to call out people who make bullsh*t claims with nothing to back them up.

You really should meet Rich Conley then, he posts here on the board quiet often and you could have the pleasure of calling him out, from the several PM I've got about him over just this one thread it seams the majority wish someone would do it.


Wheres your evidence that a 6 degree fluctuation is a bad thing?

El Niño
 
Okay, if you've got nothing but childish personal jabs, here we go.

Fiji water temps:

watertemp.gif



Palau water temps (Marshall islands)

WaterTemperatures.jpg


If you really want to hold onto that completely ignorant view that coral reefs are stable environments, read this:

http://www.reefland.com/rho/1105/reefc7.php


Got anything more?
 
From Ron Shimek
Coral reef temperatures are variable on tidal, diurnal, weekly, monthly, seasonally, annually, and multiannular time scales and the scope of variation is quite large (Figure 3). Generally, variations of 1.5 Ã"šÃ‚ºC to 4.5 Ã"šÃ‚ºC (2.7 Ã"šÃ‚ºF to 8.1 Ã"šÃ‚ºF) are common in equatorial areas, and one-day extremes such as a tidal pool on the Great Barrier Reef of 25.3 Ã"šÃ‚ºC to 34.9 Ã"šÃ‚ºC (77.5 Ã"šÃ‚ºF to 94.8 Ã"šÃ‚ºF) are not uncommon (Wood, 1999). Long-term fluctuations in the monthly average sea surface temperature at equatorial localities often fluctuate over a 3Ã"šÃ‚ºC to 5 Ã"šÃ‚ºC (5.4Ã"šÃ‚ºF to 9Ã"šÃ‚ºF) range (See Figure 3). When the data for the monthly average fluctuates this much it should be understood that the values for the daily extreme temperatures fluctuate over a much high range.
 
Oh I'm so sorry, my ignorant way of thinking, as you so abruptly put it, had me thinking we were talking about a 6.2 degree fluctuation in a 24 hr period not a year.............
 
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