Diary of a failed breeder

Eventually. I think it's important for me to learn to raise the fry... which I may just give away.

Fantastic News! Now you'll have something to take your mind off the Thiellei tank. I also cut my teeth with this complex, A. Frenatus, and found it a great jump off point. Big fry, a tad more forgiving then some of the others.

Good Luck! Remember things happen in 3's! Keep your eye on othe other tanks for more surprises.


:) Kurt
 
I'll have to start with the next spawn. I have too much going on in the next few weeks.

Now I need to get some nano and rot cultures going....
 
Unless you really want another chore dont bother with the nano. Just get the roti diet from reeds. Just one less thing to worry about and one less thing to go wrong. Landlord might have something to say on the subject but that is my opinion.
 
Landlord might have something to say on the subject but that is my opinion.

I only have good things to say...I am a die-hard RotiferDiet fan, but to each their own.

Live nanno, albeit a chore, will result in less ammonia in the larval tanks / rotifer cultures which is one of the pros. Water changes every couple of days can get tiresome when you are trying to dodge the fry :lol:

The convenience of RotiferDiet is my main reason for using it. With 20+ tanks plus my rotifer cultures in my Breeding Room I have no more space (that I want to give up) for live nanno. Nor would I want to have the light source running for it 24/7. I have something hatching in one of the broodstock tanks about 2-3 times a week, so I like darkness. :)
 
I'm sure this sounds like I'm getting ahead of myself but I am concerned about mis-barring due to poor water quality. So, I would like to hook the larval/growout tank to the main system. I figure that if I have a trickle of water as a return that it will be slow enough for them to tolerate it and not lose all my larva food but still be enough to maximize water quality.
Thoughts?
 
I don't know if it matters but another thing I'd like to mention about the 40 breeder they spawned in is that they do not have a light over it. It is only lighted by ambient light from the three halides situated five feet away.
 
Doesn't sound to me like you're getting ahead of yourself. I think that is a fantastic idea. Lets consider the following:

If you have a 5 gallon larval tank (In my case half full) and you can use a Litermeter, for example, to pump in / pull out 5 gallons a day = ~1.75 pints per hour. With the amount being so low you could probably fashion the "pull out" side to suck from behind a sieve and save many rotifers from doom. Even 5 gallon a day turnover is better than NO turnover for sure.

I would love to have a system to do auto water changes on my larval tanks!

You're gonna busy soon, congrats again!

Kurt
 
I don't know if it matters but another thing I'd like to mention about the 40 breeder they spawned in is that they do not have a light over it. It is only lighted by ambient light from the three halides situated five feet away.

Sounds like mood lighting :thumbsup:
 
I just had another breeder recommend going with the bottled roti food. So, I think I'll have to give that a try.

What do you all think about using golden pearls or otohime in place of BBS?

Good, bad or indifferent?
 
I just had another breeder recommend going with the bottled roti food. So, I think I'll have to give that a try.

What do you all think about using golden pearls or otohime in place of BBS?

Good, bad or indifferent?

I took A Frenatus fry to adulthood using:

Rotifers only Day 1 - Day 10 (Supplementing rotifers daily)

Otohime A Day 10+ After day 10+ I stopped adding rotifers and greenwater so there was about a week where they were eating both Oto A and the remainder of the rots. At about Day 15 it was strictly Oto foods.

Skipped BBS altogether.

I do not recommend this though, you'll get better fish survival rates using BBS during pre-meta through meta. Just my observation though.

Kurt
 
I didn't figure the rots would last five days after you add them to the tank.

I have some more questions.

How old can the BBS be before they are too big?

What do you gut load them with (or do they still have a yolk sack?)

How long before they are fed to the fry should they be allowed to eat?
 
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So, I went online to Reed Mariculture and bought the following.

16 oz bottle of Rotifer diet
3 oz bottle of Otohime A
Rotifer starter kit. (The basic one.)

A few more questions I have are:

What do people use to strain the rotifers?

Is the Rotifer Diet a live strain that can be grown if I so choose?

Anyone ever try Wilkerson's outdoor medhod of rotifer culture?
 
The tank the spawners are in is really old and has scratched, cloudy glass. It's like taking a picture through a glass of milk. So, I tried another angle that eliminated the problem.
6-5-2010004.jpg


Also, this is what the finished product of the fish mash looks like.
6-5-2010001.jpg

6-5-2010002.jpg
 
A few more questions I have are:

What do people use to strain the rotifers?

40 micron sieve. They are easy to make with some micron cloth (Aquatic Eco Systems sells it) and pvc pipe and fittings. You can also order ready made sieves from both Florida Aqua Farms and Aquatic Eco Systems.

Is the Rotifer Diet a live strain that can be grown if I so choose?

IIRC, it's cryopreserved, so no.
 
40 micron sieve. They are easy to make with some micron cloth (Aquatic Eco Systems sells it) and pvc pipe and fittings. You can also order ready made sieves from both Florida Aqua Farms and Aquatic Eco Systems.



IIRC, it's cryopreserved, so no.

RMI does not cry-preserve anything Bill. We called our products that contained glycerin "cry-preserved) but we no longer make that (been over 5 years since we did). That being said, normal rotifer diet is just Nanno and nanno has been shown to be able to be grown again after freezing :)

Rotifer Diet is dated though, I'd wait until we reformulate (soon) or get RotiGrow Plus.
 
So, I went online to Reed Mariculture and bought the following.

16 oz bottle of Rotifer diet
3 oz bottle of Otohime A
Rotifer starter kit. (The basic one.)

A few more questions I have are:

What do people use to strain the rotifers?

Is the Rotifer Diet a live strain that can be grown if I so choose?

Anyone ever try Wilkerson's outdoor medhod of rotifer culture?

Her method workls but I'd use the method Reed uses since you are using a product designed for that use :) Wilkerson's method would need to be modified.

www.rotifer.com

The normal Rotifer Diet you bought is straight Nanno. In the future I suggest getting RotiGrow Plus. Shortly we'll be modifying Rotifer Diet to be the same mix of algaes as RotiGrow but in different %.

www.rotifer-solutions.com
 
congrats ! Also Theres a huge pair of tomato clowns at my lfs that lay eggs all the time. Im sure they'd sell them to me. Shoot me a pm if you want them.

ps get those rots and brine goin
 
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