Dinoflagellates.

My dinoflagellates outbreak began immediately after I killed off all of my Cyanobacteria by doing a 3 day dark period. Tank was COVERED in cyano before...after lights out it was sparkly clean. I loved it. Then 2-3 days later the brown bubbly snot showed up. Nothing else changed. Just killed one pest and freed up nutrients for another pest to consume

exact same thing happened to me. It looked like sponge growing on the rocks, and went from there. Mine haven't gotten any worse, and seem to be residing slowly. I'm trying the hydrogen peroxide but I'm not expecting much from doing that, more of a trial I guess.
 
The claim was originally made by "Pants" a member of reefcentral and a microbiologist specializing in dinoflagellates, and further disseminated by me. In experiments he found that a rapid change of even 5 ppt of salinity was enough to kill dinoflagellates.

I have confirmed this with my own experiments featuring a microscope, a dropper filled with freshwater, and a sample of ostreopsis dinos. A few drops of freshwater in the petri dish, bringing the s.g. to 1.014 instantly and the result is dead dinos, ruptured and bloated. But the change must be sudden. A few stragglers can survive in hyposalinity if the salinity is lowered gradually.

Consider what happens when dipping zoanthids in freshwater: amphipods and flatworms start dropping like flies right away. Dinoflagellate's soft, unicellular bodies, or any microbes for that matter I'd imagine, can't withstand those kinds of differences in osmotic pressure.

In light of this perhaps a hyposalinity dip with h2o2 and move to quarantine. If one were careful regarding contamination the animals could be saved at the very least.
 
I agree that the lights-out treatment leaves a lot of nutrients in the system. That's why I would run a lot of GFO and do some water changes before restarting the lights. I'd also siphon out as much of the cyanobacteria as possible before it dies and decays into the water column.
 
My tank is empty now.

If you have identified your dinos as a Ostreopsis species and got rid of them please post your findings here.
 
I have a dino in a propagation system that was not previously skimmed or UV sterilized. Some thoughts after re-reading this thread: After hooking up even a low quality skimmer, I am producing lots of skimmate - mostly at night. The areas where they were growing on substrate are reduced greatly after 4-5 days of skimming. I also wonder if a UV sterilizer would help with free swimming species/stages. I don't recall seeing much info on equipment on everyone's tanks, but food for thought.
 
Among the countless measures I applied, one was to blow them off the rocks several times a day for a weeks.
In the morning they would also be absent from the sand as a natural behavior.
Perhaps it would keep them down a bit, but it was far from being enough to reduce their numbers to a noticeable point.
At least some dinos have a unique way to instantly attach to almost anything.

Without a skimmer I'd think your tank would be run over much faster.
 
Yes, they came on fast, but that system is for growing out zoas, corallimorphs, anemones, chalice and acans. I like the dirtier water for those species, but it does allow dinos opportunity if they want to bloom. Seems to be cleaning up quickly though with the skimmer operating. Whatever species I had was irritating my sinuses during water changes.
 
I might run some fresh carbon on that tank, given that the dinoflagellates seemed to be irritating your sinuses. The carbon might help remove the irritant.
 
I had been using ROX, but I keep getting the sense that certain corals don't like it. That may attribute to the fact that this system is run "dirtier" and I"m seeing swings from too much too fast. My normal amount is a guesstimated cup for a 400 gal system. But it is definitely a good suggestion, Jonathan.
 
What's the best way to collect dinos for microscope analysis? Some scrapings from where they settle or pull from the water column at night?
 
Bump

The picture of the fishes slime coat vectoring any pest is article worthy documentation... blog worthy to the nth.

It goes to show you can't always stop an incursion, you need a way to deal with one. It makes me wonder how one could ever stock a tank with fish and not eventually reimport the stuff
 
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My thought is, that if a quick exposure to freshwater dip actually does kill Dino's on contact, then that would suffice as far as that goes (fish bringing it in on their slime coat)...
 
i would advise catching dinos as early as possible. do not let it grow to epic proportions!

i had some recently, i would call it a "mid level" outbreak that occured over a period of about 5 days. once i realized what i was dealing with i did a 3 day lights out, added carbon/gfo in a reactor, crank'd up the skimmer and did daily small water changes. the water changes were really just a side affect of using airline tubing to suction out as much as could every day for about two weeks. i refused to run that water through a sock and return it to the tank (i don't have alot of faith in that!) and i'm not convinced that "no" water changes helps to defeat them. in my experience, the more wc, the better in all situations.
anyway after a couple of weeks, they were gone. this was about 3 weeks ago, and i haven't seen any since.

if you wait until they take over, it would be much harder, i'm sure...
 
I had a horrible dino outbreak about 5 months ago and it all died off when a added a reactor and ran GFO. Now im having a cyano problem that I just can't get rid of
 
I keep seeing water changes mentioned, although I also have read, and experienced, that water changes only fuel the Dino's... Thoughts anyone?
 
Sometimes, water changes seem to fuel dinoflagellate growth, possibly by adding trace elements. I think the effect on any given tank is hard to predict, though.
 
I want to submit this thread over to a blog that RC is friendly with I bet they would do a neat workup/writeup using that awesome picture, with perm of course from DNA>

advancedaquarist is friendly w rc right?
 
I love this hobby more than any other hobby... But friggen Dino's really put a dampener on it... I haven't been able to pinpoint the cause, but it really brings me down and makes me frustrated, lol... Flippen things... So far in my new setup, about 7 to 8 weeks in, I haven't seen anything... But I know that means nothing as I've added nothing else outside yet, like frags etc... Again, I really feel my problem starts with certain tiles I've used, but too hard to know for sure...
 
Brandon, I allow free use of my photographs for educational purposes, but I sell for commercial use.
Each case is viewed and permitted or agreed upon.

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I'm really getting hit with lack of resources, bureaucrats, microscopic local market and not being able to do what I need to.
The eradication process has taken a lot of work and time. There is no import in fresh live rock or hard corals, but I have a good friend in the hobby and we back each other up. I know he has dinos in almost invisible amounts and had no other option, but to ask for help starting over.

I kept 60 pounds (30kg) of dry rocks in his system for two weeks and moved it over to mine last Monday.
It only took 3 days for something brown to show up on those rocks, even though I'm currently only lighting with 10% of what l used to, and it really looks like dinos.

This was expected, but no so fast. I had to go with the theory that dinos are in most tanks, but kept in check with competition and bio diversity.
 
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