jason2459
Well-known member
Yep, tardigrades are masters at it. Son and I are bear hunting but haven't found one yet. As it warms up and moss and such grows again I'm sure we'll find one.new word for me - cryptobiosis
Google it.
Dinoflagellates.
- Thread starter DNA
- Start date
karimwassef
Active member
Amazing how this hobby keeps me learning.
Billybatz9
New member
Tell me the steps of the muriatic acid please? I'll do it. If this is the best way.
jason2459
Well-known member
Do it outside
Don't let pets or children near it
Add the Acid to water never the other way around
Be Careful
Wear protective clothing, gloves, mask, goggles, etc
Baking soda can help neutralize it
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2142685&page=2
jason2459
Well-known member
Sorry, missed this one. If using vinegar I would not dilute it anymore then it already is for this purpose. After 24 hours I would check the pH and replace if it's become weaker. Which as the rocks dissolve it will start to neutralize the acid. This would be a much slower process then using the muriatic acid and may not be near as effective.
Dinoflagellates might survive in spore form even if the rocks are dry. A vinegar dip likely will kill them. I might try a 50:50 mix, and let them sit with some circulation for 30 minutes or so. Bleach would be cheaper for killing dinoflagellates, though.
For treating rock for mineral deposits like phosphates, I'd add 1 part muriatic acid to 10 parts water, and let the mix sit for 20-30 minutes, but muriatic acid requires careful handling, as indicated.
For treating rock for mineral deposits like phosphates, I'd add 1 part muriatic acid to 10 parts water, and let the mix sit for 20-30 minutes, but muriatic acid requires careful handling, as indicated.
I used a brush to scrape the frag discs that had some brown/air bubbles on them. Before that I tried just water column but couldn't see a single particle.
The little oval guys - not dyno? I that they were. Going to do a sample tomorrow off the scrubber.
jason2459
Well-known member
Maybe some dino but there's a lot of variety out there. Looks like you mainly have a diatom issue.
DNA
New member
Looks like diatoms to me.
Go for a few more spots for samples to be sure and don't forget to use scale and movement.
---
Does anyone here follow what the nano tank reefers are doing against dinos?
What I like to know is what happens when a dinoflagellate infested tank gets stuffed with healthy corals.
I have a 400g system and extreme coral prices so it's the worst place to try that one out.
Go for a few more spots for samples to be sure and don't forget to use scale and movement.
---
Does anyone here follow what the nano tank reefers are doing against dinos?
What I like to know is what happens when a dinoflagellate infested tank gets stuffed with healthy corals.
I have a 400g system and extreme coral prices so it's the worst place to try that one out.
DNA
New member
We need more thinkers and doers.
The thread has close to 200 000 hits so I presume we have plenty of followers.
If you are one of those and your reef tank experience is not what i should be, consider doing something helpful.
For an example a nano tank owner could check out the post above.
The thread has close to 200 000 hits so I presume we have plenty of followers.
If you are one of those and your reef tank experience is not what i should be, consider doing something helpful.
For an example a nano tank owner could check out the post above.
Updates.
My tank looks better than it ever has.
And a FTS
But I suppose I still "have dinos."
Every day I wring out, then FW rinse clean the filter floss strip that I have mounted in front of my biggest powerhead.
It's always ostreopsis that comes out, virtually nothing else - pure ostis.
So that's my daily dose to do experiments on. No sign of dinos anywhere else in the tank. I do have one corner with a little patch of cyano. I still have a massive amount of caulerpa and chaetomorpha in the tank. Not ready to remove it yet.
As for experiments, I repeated the iron B12 trial using a different B12 vitamin with different fillers than the other one.
Last time the control had very few dinos, B12 grew more, and Fe grew more than double the amount of others.
This time the B12 did worse than the control at growing dinos. It grew cyano and bacteria much more. I suspect much of the effect either way is fillers in the vitamin, going to stop testing B12 unless anyone knows of a pure b vitamin source.
The iron treatment again did by far the best at growing dinos. The dino population in the Fe was at least double that in the control or B12 every day for about a week. In the end, Fe had almost 3x dinos (ostreopsis) that the control did.
I feel pretty comfortable saying that in my tank with high levels of available N & P & light and tons of macroalgae, the low presence of iron limits the dino growth. (I'm sure it slows the algae growth too). To me it's not far fetched to think that it might happen in other healthy systems where algae growth keeps Fe low and keeps dino population growth below predation levels and out of sight.
If anyone knows of a method other than algae competition - faster hopefully - that can take iron down below biologically usable levels that might be an interesting thing to look into. Triton Detox looks intriguing. But remember we're talking about levels way below what Triton test (or any other easily available test) can detect.
That seems in Randy's wheelhouse but I haven't seen any posts of his about stripping Fe out of water, except to tell people don't do it.
My tank looks better than it ever has.
And a FTS
But I suppose I still "have dinos."
Every day I wring out, then FW rinse clean the filter floss strip that I have mounted in front of my biggest powerhead.
It's always ostreopsis that comes out, virtually nothing else - pure ostis.
So that's my daily dose to do experiments on. No sign of dinos anywhere else in the tank. I do have one corner with a little patch of cyano. I still have a massive amount of caulerpa and chaetomorpha in the tank. Not ready to remove it yet.
As for experiments, I repeated the iron B12 trial using a different B12 vitamin with different fillers than the other one.
Last time the control had very few dinos, B12 grew more, and Fe grew more than double the amount of others.
This time the B12 did worse than the control at growing dinos. It grew cyano and bacteria much more. I suspect much of the effect either way is fillers in the vitamin, going to stop testing B12 unless anyone knows of a pure b vitamin source.
The iron treatment again did by far the best at growing dinos. The dino population in the Fe was at least double that in the control or B12 every day for about a week. In the end, Fe had almost 3x dinos (ostreopsis) that the control did.
I feel pretty comfortable saying that in my tank with high levels of available N & P & light and tons of macroalgae, the low presence of iron limits the dino growth. (I'm sure it slows the algae growth too). To me it's not far fetched to think that it might happen in other healthy systems where algae growth keeps Fe low and keeps dino population growth below predation levels and out of sight.
If anyone knows of a method other than algae competition - faster hopefully - that can take iron down below biologically usable levels that might be an interesting thing to look into. Triton Detox looks intriguing. But remember we're talking about levels way below what Triton test (or any other easily available test) can detect.
That seems in Randy's wheelhouse but I haven't seen any posts of his about stripping Fe out of water, except to tell people don't do it.
Billybatz9
New member
Bertoni, would bleach kill the spores? From what I read, only muriatic acid will do the job. Anyways, which route would you go?
Jason, once I let it sit for 30 mins, I add backing soda, then add the rocks to ro/di for 24 hours, then what? I want to make sure the rocks are free of any baking soda, acid, or other chemicals before putting into my tank. And how much of the rock would you say breaks down? I like the design of my rocks a lot!!!
Updates.
My tank looks better than it ever has.
And a FTS
But I suppose I still "have dinos."
Every day I wring out, then FW rinse clean the filter floss strip that I have mounted in front of my biggest powerhead.
It's always ostreopsis that comes out, virtually nothing else - pure ostis.
So that's my daily dose to do experiments on. No sign of dinos anywhere else in the tank. I do have one corner with a little patch of cyano. I still have a massive amount of caulerpa and chaetomorpha in the tank. Not ready to remove it yet.
As for experiments, I repeated the iron B12 trial using a different B12 vitamin with different fillers than the other one.
Last time the control had very few dinos, B12 grew more, and Fe grew more than double the amount of others.
This time the B12 did worse than the control at growing dinos. It grew cyano and bacteria much more. I suspect much of the effect either way is fillers in the vitamin, going to stop testing B12 unless anyone knows of a pure b vitamin source.
The iron treatment again did by far the best at growing dinos. The dino population in the Fe was at least double that in the control or B12 every day for about a week. In the end, Fe had almost 3x dinos (ostreopsis) that the control did.
I feel pretty comfortable saying that in my tank with high levels of available N & P & light and tons of macroalgae, the low presence of iron limits the dino growth. (I'm sure it slows the algae growth too). To me it's not far fetched to think that it might happen in other healthy systems where algae growth keeps Fe low and keeps dino population growth below predation levels and out of sight.
If anyone knows of a method other than algae competition - faster hopefully - that can take iron down below biologically usable levels that might be an interesting thing to look into. Triton Detox looks intriguing. But remember we're talking about levels way below what Triton test (or any other easily available test) can detect.
That seems in Randy's wheelhouse but I haven't seen any posts of his about stripping Fe out of water, except to tell people don't do it.
That's my daily routine also, collect dynos, rinse, repeat. I am also dosing phyto daily, and have a UV running at night. Nitrates at 40, P at 9ppb.
karimwassef
Active member
Just add an ATS
