DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
So I took this build list to start from, it was from a earlier post in this thread.

(1) Small 1 Foot Heatsink from Heatsinkusa.com
(2) 24V @ 6.5A Power Supply from MPJA.com
(6) CREEXRE-W107, White Cree Q5 XR-E Star from LED Supply White Cree XR-E
(6) CREEXRE-RB, Royal Blue XR-E Star Royal Blue Cree CR-E
(1) 3023-D-E-700P, Wired BuckPuck With External Pot. Used for Blue LEDs 700mA BuckPuck
(1) 3023-D-E-1000P, Wired BuckPuck With External Pot. Used for White LEDs 1000mA BuckPuck

But since I think I only need 4 LEDs for my tank. Its about 2gal. So I reduced the LEDs to 2 each, and the buckpuck to a 350 from a 700. Meant to remove this last part (Used for Blue LEDs 700mA BuckPuck) as I would only have one puck for all 4 leds.

I am just learning so if there if this setup wont work please let me know and why!

Thanks,
Friend
 
staggeringwade said:
What are the reports from the guys using the aluminum u channel instead of the big heat sinks from Heat Sink USA. Are the Leds staying cool enough?
Click to expand...

Ive been using it since April with no problems. I have 4 fans blowing around in my canopy and I can touch the back side of the AL right behind the LEDs and its on hot to the touch. Nothing searing or nothing that makes me want to move my finger.
Build thread
 
SWINGRRRR said:
terahz-Im sorry if I missed it, but what optics are you using for them? I cant find any good XP-G optics at a reasonable price.
Click to expand...
I'm using 25 degree on the outside LEDs and 40 degree on the inside. Got them from ETG at 1.25ea. They fit perfectly on the XPs.

XSiVE said:
funny numbers for sure.. How many total LEDs are over that tank? What's the tank's footprint?
Click to expand...

48 LEDs (1:1 blue and white) over 40 breeder (36"x18"x16").
 
staggeringwade said:
What are the reports from the guys using the aluminum u channel instead of the big heat sinks from Heat Sink USA. Are the Leds staying cool enough?
I have about 100' of the 1" wide stuff that was given to me from some guys doing commercial drywall work.
I'm building a unit for a 125 gallon 4'x2'x2' reef tank.
I'm going to use 48 Leds and see what it looks like.
If I remember correctly, it is safe to run up to six meanwell drivers without fear of burning the house down right?
I may order the kit from rapid led and use the dimmable ELN-60-48D drivers that will interface with my RKL ALC. (if I can get it to work)-the info is very sparse on the ALC. It appears that Da has been out stock on those for months now too which makes me wonder why?
This is only my second post on this forum, so I hope I did this right.
Wade
Click to expand...

I am using 2x1 1/8" thick channel with the LED's spaced out every 3" and it's plenty cool even with no fans. Not sure how overkill what I have is
 
staggeringwade said:
What are the reports from the guys using the aluminum u channel instead of the big heat sinks from Heat Sink USA. Are the Leds staying cool enough?
I have about 100' of the 1" wide stuff that was given to me from some guys doing commercial drywall work.
I'm building a unit for a 125 gallon 4'x2'x2' reef tank.
I'm going to use 48 Leds and see what it looks like.
If I remember correctly, it is safe to run up to six meanwell drivers without fear of burning the house down right?
I may order the kit from rapid led and use the dimmable ELN-60-48D drivers that will interface with my RKL ALC. (if I can get it to work)-the info is very sparse on the ALC. It appears that Da has been out stock on those for months now too which makes me wonder why?
This is only my second post on this forum, so I hope I did this right.
Wade
Click to expand...

I run eight meanwell drivers and how no issues with heating of wires, or power oscillation.

As far as the rkl alc. DA is re working that module, and they say it should be done "soon".
 
SWINGRRRR said:
I run 8. I'm more worried about flooding the garage than burning the house down.
Click to expand...

it was posted a few pages back, and got everybody worried about it, because the are not regulated. Technically they say it can create oscillation waves in your power lines causing them to heat up. That may be true in a mobile home, or a house built before the 80s, but any "modern" house is wire with cable that is more than capable of handling it.
 
akindbro4u said:
it was posted a few pages back, and got everybody worried about it, because the are not regulated. Technically they say it can create oscillation waves in your power lines causing them to heat up. That may be true in a mobile home, or a house built before the 80s, but any "modern" house is wire with cable that is more than capable of handling it.
Click to expand...
My house was built in the 1950's most of the wiring is ungrounded. I did wire and ground the Man Cave where my aquarium is. I'm kinda going back and forth between buckpucks and mean wells to avoid the issue. I'm going to make a decision this weekend and place an order.
 
I am a little uncertain of the fact that 48 led's are enough over a 125 gal. 4'x2'x2' tank.
On one hand statements have been made that 24 cree leds equate to a 250 watt halide. (I currently only use 2 250 MH.) and a t-12 tube.
Everybody has dialed the drivers way down to avoid bleaching.
So it comes down to coverage and spread? I don't see any reason to illuminate the back of my aquarium with intense lighting.
I'm guessing that my setup will look similar to Soundwave's build-kinda having a large space in the middle. I can fill in the space later if needed, but then I'm back to freaking out over using too many mean well drivers!
 
Uhm four? Is too many? Ok

staggeringwade said:
I am a little uncertain of the fact that 48 led's are enough over a 125 gal. 4'x2'x2' tank.
On one hand statements have been made that 24 cree leds equate to a 250 watt halide. (I currently only use 2 250 MH.) and a t-12 tube.
Everybody has dialed the drivers way down to avoid bleaching.
So it comes down to coverage and spread? I don't see any reason to illuminate the back of my aquarium with intense lighting.
I'm guessing that my setup will look similar to Soundwave's build-kinda having a large space in the middle. I can fill in the space later if needed, but then I'm back to freaking out over using too many mean well drivers!
Click to expand...
 
In case anyone missed it, we made the qty's so the group buy prices for XR-E only are as follows...

- $4.25 for royal blues / d3 bin
- $4.65 for cool white / we bin

I can ship the leds once I receive them for $5.55 priority mail.

Last minute stragglers, shoot me a PM if you want to be included on the order / I can accept paypal.
 
friendtothefish said:
So I took this build list to start from, it was from a earlier post in this thread.

(1) Small 1 Foot Heatsink from Heatsinkusa.com
(2) 24V @ 6.5A Power Supply from MPJA.com
(6) CREEXRE-W107, White Cree Q5 XR-E Star from LED Supply White Cree XR-E
(6) CREEXRE-RB, Royal Blue XR-E Star Royal Blue Cree CR-E
(1) 3023-D-E-700P, Wired BuckPuck With External Pot. Used for Blue LEDs 700mA BuckPuck
(1) 3023-D-E-1000P, Wired BuckPuck With External Pot. Used for White LEDs 1000mA BuckPuck

But since I think I only need 4 LEDs for my tank. Its about 2gal. So I reduced the LEDs to 2 each, and the buckpuck to a 350 from a 700. Meant to remove this last part (Used for Blue LEDs 700mA BuckPuck) as I would only have one puck for all 4 leds.

I am just learning so if there if this setup wont work please let me know and why!

Thanks,
Friend
Click to expand...

I'd go ahead and order the 700mA buckpuck, dimmable. Also might want to order 6 LEDs total - if you decide you need less, you can use less, and you're only out $10.


staggeringwade said:
I am a little uncertain of the fact that 48 led's are enough over a 125 gal. 4'x2'x2' tank.
On one hand statements have been made that 24 cree leds equate to a 250 watt halide. (I currently only use 2 250 MH.) and a t-12 tube.
Everybody has dialed the drivers way down to avoid bleaching.
So it comes down to coverage and spread? I don't see any reason to illuminate the back of my aquarium with intense lighting.
I'm guessing that my setup will look similar to Soundwave's build-kinda having a large space in the middle. I can fill in the space later if needed, but then I'm back to freaking out over using too many mean well drivers!
Click to expand...

Don't worry! Many people are running more than 4 meanwells without an issue.

But, take the opportunity to think creative. My 360g tank will have vastly fewer LEDs than convention would specify, because I'm only lighting the sections of the tank where I need light for corals.
 
Hi Folks!

What is the right glue for optic holders now? I know it was discussed earlier in this thread but things are changing every day. I would like to add some optics to my build now and have already the optics and holders but I don't want to harm the LEDs in my good working rig in any way.

Thanks

Monty
 
MontyJack,

"What is the right glue for optic holders now?"

I have use both hot glue and epoxy.

The hot glue is a mess because it is hard to contain the strands that come off the gun.

The epoxy was clean & easy. I just mixed up a little into a pool, then pressed the optics "feet" into the epoxy pool, then attached to the star.

Just dont use superglue as the fumes my be harmful to the optics.

Stu
 
I finally got around to getting the parts and starting my build. However, I made the mistake of epoxying the stars to the heat-sink before tinning the pads. I had a really hard time getting the solder to bond to the pad.

I finally finished soldering my 6 LEDs now, and it seems to work. However, I think I have quite a few cold joints in there. Do you guys think I should get some de-soldering braids and try to clean up the solder and resolder them? However, I think the heat-sink is a little too beefy for my 20w iron. Also, are the pads too oxidized now?

What do the experts suggest?
 
You can rework the joints as many times as it takes as long as you dont overheat them.

Also, you should be using at least a 40 watt iron with the stars on the heatsinks.

And it IS a lot easier if you remember to pre-tin the stars before glueing/bolting them down.

Stu
 
stugray said:
MontyJack,

"What is the right glue for optic holders now?"

I have use both hot glue and epoxy.

The hot glue is a mess because it is hard to contain the strands that come off the gun.

The epoxy was clean & easy. I just mixed up a little into a pool, then pressed the optics "feet" into the epoxy pool, then attached to the star.

Just dont use superglue as the fumes my be harmful to the optics.

Stu
Click to expand...

I'll throw my tidbit in here. I used a glue from the hobby store, I've seen it referred to as tacky glue. It's a white glue that dries rubbery, and does a great job of holding them on. It's also easy to remove them if needed, and the glue can be rubbed to get it off. It kind of balls up and off it comes.

Just my experience.

Scott
 
Thanks Stugray and Neogenocide,

"¢ Super glue is bad
"¢ Hot glue is a mess
"¢ Epoxy (two component) is ok
"¢ "œTacky glue" ??

The point of getting the holder off in case the star died is interesting. But what about the long-term aspects of "œtacky glue" in hot cold cycles?
Is epoxy so strong that you cannot get the holder off the star unless you break it?

Did anybody else have used something different to glue the optics on or other experience?

Thanks

Monty
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
119
Reefing102
Reefing102
R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
366
ronnyking
R
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
534
S|\/|S
S
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
2
Replies
23
Views
606
griss
griss
B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
936
BeanAnimal
B
Back
Top