DIY LEDs - The write-up

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The Meanwell spec sheets says max in on cold start is something like the power of 6 toaster ovens on at once(18,000W).. but only for a split second...

I just read the spec sheet. It says inrush current max. I don't think it means the driver is drawing that kind of current but more like it can handle the current in case of like a power surge. Just guessing.
 
Well guys, my build is beginning....Just put in for 192 LEDs through Garage's GB. Only about $850 for the LEDs alone. Saved me about $400-$500.
 
I just read the spec sheet. It says inrush current max. I don't think it means the driver is drawing that kind of current but more like it can handle the current in case of like a power surge. Just guessing.

Besides, most of us will not turn on 8 meanwells or 96 leds at full blast all at once. I hope it will not be an issue for my 120 leds build in an old house. (recently renovated)
 
I read it somewhere that the LEDS in the maxspect fixtures are run by AC current instead of DC. What's the verdict on that or LED driven by AC in general?
 
Swannking...getting XP-G's would have been nice, but the price was just too hard to resist on the XR-Es, especially with those $.22 optics he linked to...
 
MontyJack,

"What is the right glue for optic holders now?"

I have use both hot glue and epoxy.

The hot glue is a mess because it is hard to contain the strands that come off the gun.

The epoxy was clean & easy. I just mixed up a little into a pool, then pressed the optics "feet" into the epoxy pool, then attached to the star.

Just dont use superglue as the fumes my be harmful to the optics.

Stu

Good optics should just snap on.....

DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE!

Loctite No Mess Adheasive ( the non toxic stuff from home deopt) worked for me.

Bill
 
Swannking...getting XP-G's would have been nice, but the price was just too hard to resist on the XR-Es, especially with those $.22 optics he linked to...


Agreed, at the price points / discount, I cannot see how you could beat XR-E when it comes to bang for the buck.

I did order in extra in case anyone wants to get in on the stellar discount. Just shoot me a PM with the qty you want. They should all be in at the end of the week hopefully.
- $4.25 for royal blues / d3 bin
- $4.65 for cool white / we bin
 
Optics Question

Optics Question

So I've been lurking this thread since the before the split and have an unanswered question regarding optics.

My theoretical build will have my LEDs <~6" from my tank top.

By my calculations: if I want even coverage without illuminating the glass I will need optics of 43.06 deg to cover 24" at a distance of 30" per LED.

I plan on using XP-G Crees and have come across very few option that fit these LEDs, or options that are a poor fit for the hobby.

What is the consensus on XP-G optics?
 
westmoorenerd, Cannot wait to see your build! I thought I was rocking some leds at 72rb & 72cw over my new 225!!!

I don't know how nice my build is going to be...it's just going to be alot of LEDs. No way I'm going to be able to top some of these builds I've seen, especially some of the Arduino builds.
 
What are the reports from the guys using the aluminum u channel instead of the big heat sinks from Heat Sink USA. Are the Leds staying cool enough?
I have about 100' of the 1" wide stuff that was given to me from some guys doing commercial drywall work.
A lot will depend on how many LEDs and the amperage you run them at. I have 14 RB XPEs and 13 XPGs spaced 1.5" on centers on a 41 " length of 1x1/2x1/16" U channel. At 800 ma the back of the U Channel gets to 110 F very fast. With both sets of LEDS running at 800 ma the back of the U channel gets to 130 F.

I want to be able to run my LEDs at 1000 ma if I wish. I think it makes more sense to run the LEDs at the higher current then buying more LEDs and drivers. I think buy the time the decrease in PAR, the cost of replacements will be insignificant, especially if I can keep them cooler. I have a length of 1x1/2x1/8" U channel and some other aluminum extrusions I will try in hope of keeping the LEDs cooler.
 
I did order in extra in case anyone wants to get in on the stellar discount. Just shoot me a PM with the qty you want. They should all be in at the end of the week hopefully.
- $4.25 for royal blues / d3 bin
- $4.65 for cool white / we bin

Do you have 60 cool white and 60 RB? I am going to place an order with rapidled.
 
Group Buys
A "Group Buy" is defined as a group of hobbyists pooling their orders to save shipping costs and potentially get a group discount. Reef Central has never allowed "global" group buys - ie, group buys that cross local boundaries and involve drop shipping to multiple addresses (often in multiple states). Those aren't "group buys," but vendor sales in violation of RC's commercial rules, and in fact often involve the same individual organizer for multiple sales (ie, they're running their own basement business).

So, let's be clear: Local Club sanctioned Group Buys are okay. The organizer cannot be affiliated with the vendor or product(s), nor have a greater monetary or other benefit than other participants. If the group buy involves shipping to multiple addresses and/or involves non-local participation the sale will be removed and the organizer will receive an infraction (which can lead to Probationary status and loss of sales and PM privileges, so don't go there).

Thank you for your cooperation and helping to return the focus of the forums to the exchange of reef-related information.

EDIT: After consideration we have decided to allow individual ship group buys. However they must be conducted in the vendor's forum. All other rules still apply. Thank you.


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Last edited by dc; 04/18/2010 at 06:52 AM.

not trying to cause problems just protecting the thread.
 
Anyone have info on the ELN-60-100 unit??? I see it on meanwells site but no data on it yet.
http://www.meanwellusa.com/LED.html




EDIT: Just spoke with meanwell, they did not know about the eln100 so it may be a product they will not release. However they did state they are coming out with a KLG or HLG?? "was hard to understand the guy" series rated at 100, 120, 150 & 185 all dimmable in p & d type with a possible 240 model to follow.
 
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Question to LED DIY gurus:
I am currently running 75G SPS with plan to upgrade to 48X30(W)X20(H) rimless. After I attached a reefbrite LED strip (48 inch 24X 1.25W LEDs blue/white) to front my Aquanitics TX5 5-T5 fixture and see how nice the spectrum mixed tegether, I am convinced T5 + LED is my way to go. Now I am thinking to replace a T5 tube inside the fixture with a LED strip, I can drill a hole on fixture to let out power cord of LED strip. This way I can take advantage of nice reflector and active cooling of T5 fixture (and neat looking for example ATI fixture).
I wondering if such a product (LED strip to install in a T5 reflector) available, if not anyone would like to outsource my DIY work, I am not a DIY man but I think such a product will have a hugh market.
Thanks in advance!
 
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I read it somewhere that the LEDS in the maxspect fixtures are run by AC current instead of DC. What's the verdict on that or LED driven by AC in general?

"AC LED" is an oxymoron. They are inherently directional devices. If someone says they have an AC LED, it is almost certainly a plain old DC LED with some sort of rectification circuit built right into the same die. At best, they are inefficient.

So I've been lurking this thread since the before the split and have an unanswered question regarding optics.

My theoretical build will have my LEDs <~6" from my tank top.

By my calculations: if I want even coverage without illuminating the glass I will need optics of 43.06 deg to cover 24" at a distance of 30" per LED.

I plan on using XP-G Crees and have come across very few option that fit these LEDs, or options that are a poor fit for the hobby.

What is the consensus on XP-G optics?

Call ETG, they seem to have good selection and prices.

But, don't get hung up on calculations, and make sure you're interpreting the FWHM angle correctly if you DO want to try the math. Keep in mind that the very nature of the FWHM standard means that the number tells you very, very little about the actual spread of light, other than a general indication of "tightness."

Question to LED DIY gurus:
I am currently running 75G SPS with plan to upgrade to 48X30(W)X20(H) rimless. After I attached a reefbrite LED strip (48 inch 24X 1.25W LEDs blue/white) to front my Aquanitics TX5 5-T5 fixture and see how nice the spectrum mixed tegether, I am convinced T5 + LED is my way to go. Now I am thinking to replace a T5 tube inside the fixture with a LED strip, I can drill a hole on fixture to let out power cord of LED strip. This way I can take advantage of nice reflector and active cooling of T5 fixture (and neat looking for example ATI fixture).
I wondering if such a product (LED strip to install in a T5 reflector) available, if not anyone would like to outsource my DIY work, I am not a DIY man but I think such a product will have a hugh market.
Thanks in advance!

Answered in the other thread you started.
 
Quick question....I just finished building my LED fixture and when I turn the lights off they give an intense flicker before cutting out completly. That normal? They're being driven by dimming meanwells on a pot.
 
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