DIY LEDs - The write-up
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kcress
New member
It's very hard to actually tell how large a jab that is because of how human eyes work but does it seem brighter than when they're on?
It's likely caused by the the switcher's controller chip loosing control as its own supply drops below the operating point. It's not demonstrating very good design if that is indeed what's happening...
SWINGRRRR; Does yours do the same thing?
Anybody else?
The only other possibility is differences in decay time between the dimmer and the actual power controller. It would be interesting to know if you turn the dimming all the way down (dimmest) and then turn off the power, if the same thing happens.
It's likely caused by the the switcher's controller chip loosing control as its own supply drops below the operating point. It's not demonstrating very good design if that is indeed what's happening...
SWINGRRRR; Does yours do the same thing?
Anybody else?
The only other possibility is differences in decay time between the dimmer and the actual power controller. It would be interesting to know if you turn the dimming all the way down (dimmest) and then turn off the power, if the same thing happens.
Taqpol
New member
Hey everyone, I just ordered some CREE XR-E Neutral Whites from Cutter, so whenever they get in I will let everyone know and hopefully be able to post some pictures of what they look like mixed in at a 1:12 ratio of what would otherwise be 1:1 RB and CW. Heres the link:
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XRE
Also, I know other people have ordered from Cutter before. How long do they normally take to ship to the US?
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XRE
Also, I know other people have ordered from Cutter before. How long do they normally take to ship to the US?
SWINGRRRR
Premium Member
If they have to be mounted, ~ 2 weeks total.
SWINGRRRR
Premium Member
When I got mine, an order over $100 got free shipping. But that was back around Christmas or so. I also had a coupon code for 5% off, but I dont know if its still good, its been awhile. Its buried in this thread somewhere if you search on my name.
staggeringwade
New member
Are there any videos out there that correctly show how and when to use a voltage meter when adjusting the trim pots on the ELN-60-48D?
Does anybody recall the pages where the guys teach using a voltage meter for my application?
My current voltage meter is inadequate, what are the requirements?
I have a Lowes and Home Depot in town if somebody has a model number they can recommend.
Thanks
Does anybody recall the pages where the guys teach using a voltage meter for my application?
My current voltage meter is inadequate, what are the requirements?
I have a Lowes and Home Depot in town if somebody has a model number they can recommend.
Thanks
Hi,
I'm just starting my DIY Led lamp project
so I've got a lot of questions.
Tank will be ca. 46" x 26" x 21" (height)
I've got heatsink 43" x 7.5".
There'll be:
- 30 XP-G white (probably R4, 0D because I've got problem to buy bin R5, 0D)
- 42 XP-E royal blue (bin D3)
- 6 Meanwell ELN 60-48D
I'm going to make such circuits:
- 24 XP-G - drive on 1.3A (on 2 Meanwells)
- 6 XP-G + 6 XP-E - drive on 0.9A (1 Meanwell)
- 36 XP-E - drive on 0.9A (3 Meanwells)
and connect it to Profilux.
And my questions:
- does the ratio between RB and CW are proper (in previous tank I used 13000K HQI suplemented by actinic T5 bulb)
- bin R4 for CW is OK or it's much better to find R5?
- I want to control those lamp using Profilux computer. How many Meanwells I can connect to one Profilux port (eg. L1)? Does 2 ports for 6 supplies will be enought or I should use 3 ports to be sure that Profilux will handle it?
- do I have to use GHL EVG-AP-2F to totally disconnect Meanwell? (I don't want to additionally use Profilux power bar with to connect those supplies)
regards,
rpp
I'm just starting my DIY Led lamp project
so I've got a lot of questions. Tank will be ca. 46" x 26" x 21" (height)
I've got heatsink 43" x 7.5".
There'll be:
- 30 XP-G white (probably R4, 0D because I've got problem to buy bin R5, 0D)
- 42 XP-E royal blue (bin D3)
- 6 Meanwell ELN 60-48D
I'm going to make such circuits:
- 24 XP-G - drive on 1.3A (on 2 Meanwells)
- 6 XP-G + 6 XP-E - drive on 0.9A (1 Meanwell)
- 36 XP-E - drive on 0.9A (3 Meanwells)
and connect it to Profilux.
And my questions:
- does the ratio between RB and CW are proper (in previous tank I used 13000K HQI suplemented by actinic T5 bulb)
- bin R4 for CW is OK or it's much better to find R5?
- I want to control those lamp using Profilux computer. How many Meanwells I can connect to one Profilux port (eg. L1)? Does 2 ports for 6 supplies will be enought or I should use 3 ports to be sure that Profilux will handle it?
- do I have to use GHL EVG-AP-2F to totally disconnect Meanwell? (I don't want to additionally use Profilux power bar with to connect those supplies)
regards,
rpp
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
It's about right given the current standard build, but of course the best practice is to see some LED tanks in person or experiment to find the ratio you like best. To that end, you might be better off ordering a few of each color of LED and trying them out before you order the entire amount.
R4 is certainly OK - it's still a good 20% or so better than the old standard, the XR-E Q5. It's maybe 5 - 7% worse than an R5, so you have to decide if it's worth it or not to look for R5's.
Can you provide us some specifications on the Profilux unit(s) you're planning on using? Max currents, etc. would help us answer these questions.
Unfortunatelly in operation manual there is no information about max. currents for dimmable ports :-(
I only found on some forums that it can handle max. 10mA per one port. But it's not confirm by GHL (Profilux manufacturer). It's Profilux II Plus if this information can help.
About using this additional unit (EVG-AP-2F) I also found somewhere such information and that's why I want to confirm it. Theoretically I can set min. dim voltage to 0V and max. to 10V so I think if it's really 0V there is no need to use this module to cut power supply at all.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Anecdotally, the ELNs pull 3 - 4 mA each, so you may be able to fit two or three on each 10mA port. If I were you, I'd order the meanwells, hook one up, and measure the current draw across the whole 0-10v range, to be sure.
I'd be willing to bet that you will still want to cut the power supply to the meanwells when the dimming signal is zero, as many people have reported a soft glow from the LEDs even at a zero signal.
I'd be willing to bet that you will still want to cut the power supply to the meanwells when the dimming signal is zero, as many people have reported a soft glow from the LEDs even at a zero signal.
I got brave/stupid last night and decided to test the current output from the aquasurf. I cut the wire coming from the aquasurf to the tunze, identified the signal wire (black) and the ground wire (red). I used a 5k ohm 0.5W potentiometer for the test. I connected the wires to the pot with the ampmeter in series. Starting with 100% power from the aquasurf, I got about 8V from the signal output. With the pot. set at 5k ohm, I got a few mA of current. I slowly lowered the resistance of the pot and the current came up slowly until about 30mA when the current ramped up much faster with a slight turn of the pot. I decided to stop there since I will only be using 1 port to dim 3 MW. Everything still works after the test. :worried:
der_wille_zur_macht, do you see anything wrong with what I did or would you recommend it to rpp to test the profiliux?
der_wille_zur_macht, do you see anything wrong with what I did or would you recommend it to rpp to test the profiliux?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I would NOT recommend shorting the output to test it's current capabilities, because we don't know about potential protection mechanisms that might or might not be included in a particular device. It's very easy to make a costly mistake doing that.
You are probably right although I wasn't really "shorting out the output". NOT RECOMMENDED indeed. I don't want to be held responsible. But the info that I gained tells me that I can probably dim 3 MWs with a single port from the aquasurf. I'll test it when I get all my stuff.
frontosa_man80
PROP member
mine use to do the same thing. i found buy shutting down the power to the 10v supply about 2 min after the lights are off kept it from doing that.
i have mine on a PC4 and kill the main power to the drivers then after all have been out for a few minutes i kill the power to the 10v power supply.
HTH
-jesse
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