DIY LEDs - The write-up

[inky]

Quick Q:

What gives the best look, 1NW-2RB or 1CW-1RB?

I think, that is down to personal preference.......

 

[TheFishMan65]

And the type of LED.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

+eleventybillion. Buy one NW, one CW, and two RBs, and find out for yourself.

My own personal preference seems to be as fickle as the trends but right now my favorite is one NW, two CW, and 6 RB.

 

[inky]

+eleventybillion. Buy one NW, one CW, and two RBs, and find out for yourself.

My own personal preference seems to be as fickle as the trends but right now my favorite is one NW, two CW, and 6 RB.

At what % of max do you run each one at? I'm setting up something similar to play with the light, although, I'm using 1 CW, 1NW and 2 RB XRE......

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I generally run everything at ~600-700mA.

For reference, I'm talking about:

XP-G for the cool whites: R5 brightness, color bin from the 1 region - i.e. 1B, 1C, etc.
XP-G for the neutral whites: R4 brightness, color bin somewhere in the 5 region, i.e. at the warmest end of neutral white
XP-E for royal blues, 16 brightness bin, ideally D3 or D4 color bin

And as we've just repeated several times, definitely a personal preference thing. I find the above gives a fairly deep blue look (something like a moderate 20kk MH or a really deep 15kk) without becoming washed out.

 

[ti-christ]

+eleventybillion. Buy one NW, one CW, and two RBs, and find out for yourself.

My own personal preference seems to be as fickle as the trends but right now my favorite is one NW, two CW, and 6 RB.

Using the Ratio 1:2:6, what is you LED pattern?


Thanks for sharing your personal taste !!!

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I generally don't build arrays with nice symmetrical geometric patterns. :lol: Instead I tend to create small tight groups of LEDs, and then place several of these "clusters" around the tank at strategic locations. This gives you really good control over intensity across the whole tank while preventing waste (i.e. lighting empty sand, or an overflow box, etc.).

 

[wld1783]

I generally run everything at ~600-700mA.

For reference, I'm talking about:

XP-G for the cool whites: R5 brightness, color bin from the 1 region - i.e. 1B, 1C, etc.
XP-G for the neutral whites: R4 brightness, color bin somewhere in the 5 region, i.e. at the warmest end of neutral white
XP-E for royal blues, 16 brightness bin, ideally D3 or D4 color bin

And as we've just repeated several times, definitely a personal preference thing. I find the above gives a fairly deep blue look (something like a moderate 20kk MH or a really deep 15kk) without becoming washed out.

+1

Research your Bins

As far as the XP-G I like to drive 12 on an ELN 60-48D with an APEX controller. I programed a sunrise sunset over 2 hours each with a max current of 1100mA. This gives me a great addition of a warmer cool white and a great high noon blast of light for 6 hours to augment my XR-Es.

IMHO if your only going to be driving your LEDs at 700mA then the XR-E R2 is a better option Than the XP-G.

As far as XR-E Royal Royal Blue the Bin D316 totally rocks.


Bill

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

IMHO if your only going to be driving your LEDs at 700mA then the XR-E R2 is a better option Than the XP-G.

I'm curious to know your reasoning - no matter the drive current, the XP-G will be more efficient. In fact, at lower drive currents, the efficiency difference is even greater, meaning the XP-G should be more preferable, not less.

 

[wld1783]

I'm curious to know your reasoning - no matter the drive current, the XP-G will be more efficient. In fact, at lower drive currents, the efficiency difference is even greater, meaning the XP-G should be more preferable, not less.

DWZM

Its simple bang for the buck.

The XP-G is more expensive than the R2. The R2 with optics preforms quite well against the XP-G with generally a cooler coluor. This allows for less Blue to achieve your overall colour preference thus a lower initial costs.

This is one of those personal preferences...Ginger vs Mary Ann...

The XP-G is more efficient than the R2 but not by much...Toss in optics and initial costs and its a can of worms when discussing which one is more efficient.

Personally I like to configure an LED array based on looks and growth. To achieve this I use the XP-G for a high noon blast of light for 6 hours which turns my 18-20K look into a 10-12K.

In the evening I like the 18-20K that slowly dims. But I need to provide the corals all the light they need, so this is my way of doing it...Lots of different ways of doing it well...Just another option.


Bill

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

DWZM
The R2 with optics preforms quite well against the XP-G with generally a cooler coluor.

Color is dictated by color bin, and 99% of the bins you're likely to get in this hobby will put those two LEDs in the same range of coolness - indeed the XR-E is technically available in a few bins that are cooler, but I've never seen those bins available in the hobby.

The XP-G is more efficient than the R2 but not by much...Toss in optics and initial costs and its a can of worms when discussing which one is more efficient.

When talking efficiency, it's not a can of worms, it's simple math based on known specifications. And the XP-G is, simply, more efficient. Plus, optics do not improve efficiency. They actually REDUCE efficiency since they block some light. Besides, it's really not apples-to-apples to compare one model of LED with an external optic against another model with no external optic.

Lots of different ways of doing it well...Just another option.

Agreed, there's definitely more than one way to solve this problem and much of it is personal preference. Not trying to argue that at all. But some of it is simple fact we can look up on datasheets, too!

 

[wld1783]

Color is dictated by color bin, and 99% of the bins you're likely to get in this hobby will put those two LEDs in the same range of coolness - indeed the XR-E is technically available in a few bins that are cooler, but I've never seen those bins available in the hobby.

The better vendors who tailor to the reef hobby choose the coolest Bin available. These bins often vary so the specifics are not advertised. But it is easier to get a cooler XR-E than XP-G. This however, is an advantage as a trend is developing using a mix of whites to achieve a more natural spectrum.

When talking efficiency, it's not a can of worms, it's simple math based on known specifications. And the XP-G is, simply, more efficient. Plus, optics do not improve efficiency. They actually REDUCE efficiency since they block some light. Besides, it's really not apples-to-apples to compare one model of LED with an external optic against another model with no external optic.

True in the classroom it is simple math but in the field a lot of reef tanks are only 18"-30" wide and the light fixtures are often as high as 48" from the bottom of the tank (30" deep tank + 18" off the water).

Without optics you have 110-120 degree spread on a naked LED. The XPG simple does not have the same range of optics as the XR-E although more options are becoming available. This wastes a lot of light on the front glass which results in extra algae growth and is simply not an efficient field application of a LED. Nano tanks are different.

By adding optics you are focusing the light where you need it and want it. True some light is blocked but who cares that light is wasted any way. The rest of the light is focused and stronger. When planned well you will see higher PAR where you want it.

It truly is a can of worms because now with optics in your math equation you can ask whats more efficient...80 degree optics in the middle and 60 degree on the edges or just 70 degree optics. Or Both...Or None...

Bill

 

[wld1783]

Oops double post.

 

[S2minute]

....

....

...gheesh, so many cans of worms round here....lets all just go fishen:fish2::lol2:

 

[EMUReef]

...gheesh, so many cans of worms round here....lets all just go fishen:fish2::lol2:

trying to up your post count at all?

any whooooooooo

Have been tossing around the idea of changing my lighting from 2x 175w MH on my 90g (48x18x24) to LED.
and im keeping a mixed reef, sps/lps

First and for most. I dunno what size heat sink to go with or How many LED's for that matter.

Dont worry yet, im not ordering anything, just trying to price out as right now 2 new bulbs would cost about 120$ or more to replace my MH... might as well just put it towards a LED build.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Probably need 48-72 depending on what you want to keep.

L channel makes for a cheap heat sink.

 

[reefrubble]

So much Technical data my head is spinning . I would like to go with LED lighting , over my new tank , but I don't know how to go . My new tank is a marineland 300 DD (72"X36"x27") .

 

[S2minute]

trying to up your post count at all?

any whooooooooo

Ummmm...yeah, that`s my whole purpose of posting here, you did not know?

any whooooooooooooooooooo

Wille, i like your idea of clusters of LEDs instead of one huge array. It`ll make for a much more diversified and controllable. It will make it even easier for me to place the HSs at different angles.

 

[OTCHU]

quick question ... what is the gage you guys are using to connect the leds together ? I am thinking at 22awg ... If I am right, this gage can handle about 920mA ... I will run my leds at around 800mA

Thanks
Vincent

 

[S2minute]

LEDs

LEDs

Vincent: 20-24 is ok. Tinned preferably and stranded,(easier to work with), and with good insulation. If you do alittle digging, there is a big post that sums up alot of things concerning LEDS and there is a link to a site that has quality wire. Hope that helps.