DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Widmer, the XP-G optics are actually the same ones they sell for MC-E, but I do not know which led they were actually 'designed for'. They are definitely different from the XR-E optics, not just 'relabeled and respecced'

I did exactly the comparisons you are talking about, with a java slideshow that describes each optic. Sounds like you missed it a few (a bazillion?) pages back, please check it out :)

http://www.worstkind.com/aquarium/leds/optics/mce_xpg.html

The XR-E optics do look a tad bit dimmer on the XP-G, but its a very minor difference.

And yes, they all use the same style holder which is convenient.
 
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quick comparison

XPG with Ripple Medium Optic 10208 (sold for MC-E or XP-G)
xpg_03_ripplemedium.jpg

http://www.worstkind.com/aquarium/leds/optics/xpg_03_ripplemedium.jpg

XP-G with the XR-E Ripple Medium 10210 (sold for XR-E)
xpg_08_xre_ripplemedium.jpg

http://www.worstkind.com/aquarium/leds/optics/xpg_08_xre_ripplemedium.jpg

Open those two links in different browser tabs and go between them. notice 10210 looks almost the same but loses the bright core, indicating either lower efficiency or the optic is spreading the light into a weird ring away from dead center. I'm betting on a combination, mostly the former.


With MC-E, I can hardly tell any difference between the XRE and MCE/XPG optics.
 
These are as cheap as a person could ask for for the XP-G at less than $1.50 each including holder:

http://ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpg.php

FWIW it almost looks like they are the exact same optics that Carlco supplies as XR-E optics but their output pattern is simply recalculated to account for the different incident angle when you strap it on an XP-G. My point is that I would think a person could play with XR-E optics on an XP-G to see if they like the light coming out of them and be potentially quite happy, if they are the sort that attaches onto the star rather than the actual LED die.

Right, but the widest (other than the elliptical) is 31 degrees, that can work but is tighter than most people hanging LEDs at a "standard" height would want, unless they are using a TON of LEDs.
 
I've read through this entire thread and i've also gone back and reread a lot of it. It's all a bit overwhelming. I do have some questions and dont want to venture back into the 150+ pages of this thread. your help would be greatly appreciated.

I see that most are now using meanwell drivers and not the buckpucks, is there any specific reason for this (i want to have dimming capabilities)? i probably read it but forgot.


I've found the white XR-e Q5 leds have dropped in price but havent found the royal blues cheaper than $6.29 each. Has anyone had better luck finding the royal blues at a better price?? Where??

thanks,

Jose
 
I've read through this entire thread and i've also gone back and reread a lot of it. It's all a bit overwhelming. I do have some questions and dont want to venture back into the 150+ pages of this thread. your help would be greatly appreciated.

:wildone:

I see that most are now using meanwell drivers and not the buckpucks, is there any specific reason for this (i want to have dimming capabilities)? i probably read it but forgot.

Mostly just because they are easier. They don't require a separate power supply, and they work out to be just slightly cheaper.


I've found the white XR-e Q5 leds have dropped in price but havent found the royal blues cheaper than $6.29 each. Has anyone had better luck finding the royal blues at a better price?? Where??

thanks,

Jose
Try http://www.cutter.com.au/categories.php. Last I spoke to them a few days ago they were on back order, but expecting them this week. I haven't checked if they shipped my to say for sure if they got them in yet, but they are alot cheaper if your not in a hurry.
 
Drive current really doesn't matter? Well, the optics were a definite boost in PAR for me, I would agree, but when it came to "dialing in" the range that I wanted, the only option I had was the current knob and it worked better than I expected as I dropped the whites from 500 to 350mA to get nearly 400 at the top part of the tank and around 200 on the sand. So a combination of them both was necessary and important in my case at least.

Sorry, I don't think I was clear. What I meant was regardless of current, output changes exponentially at distance when optics are used.
-R
 
"output changes exponentially at distance when optics are used."

??????

If you had optics that produced a collimated beam ( zero degree ), then there is NO loss at distance.

If you have 180 degree optics ( 2PI steradians ) then the loss is half of the inverse square law.

Stu
 
Right, but the widest (other than the elliptical) is 31 degrees, that can work but is tighter than most people hanging LEDs at a "standard" height would want, unless they are using a TON of LEDs.

LOL I missed the part where those only top out at 31 degrees... I wonder if that has anything to do with the fact that all of the optics on my LEDs are 8 degrees? :lolspin:
 
Some pics to share from a 96 LEDs setup for a 125G tank
photo3.jpg

photo4.jpg

photo5.jpg

Used 4 modules with 24 LEDs each (10x8" heatsinks)
Meanwells ELN 60-48P between each bank.
Used Q5 CW and XRE RB 60 Degree optics
8- 90mm 2000 RPM low profile fans
Sorry for the crappy cel pics.

Sucks to build something that is already out of date cause this technology is going crazy fast growing and there are lots of cool new stuff coming out. Anyways, bet this thing is going to light up very nice.
 
Don't knock your nice build. Nothing wrong with Q5 CW and XRE RB!

Better is more LEDs not less and brighter.
 
"output changes exponentially at distance when optics are used."

??????

If you had optics that produced a collimated beam ( zero degree ), then there is NO loss at distance.

If you have 180 degree optics ( 2PI steradians ) then the loss is half of the inverse square law.

Stu

Stu,
We are not dealing with zero degree lenses in real world applications, 180˚ lenses would very close to using no lenses on the XR-Es.
Without confusing readers further, the point I was trying to make was that using optics (vs. no optics), even wide angle optics, results in much more light getting into the tank, even more so when unit distance from tank increases.
-R
 
DFason-

I'm glad another person is on board with tight optics :) The video is showing as you independently dim the blues and whites, anything I'm missing?
 
Hi Friends,
Please can I have the online store address again where to get these Supplies.
Also a List for Material (LED`s and type, also the mean well Parts and so) to built a light Fixture what could fit in the Hood of a 29 Gal. Biocube. I think 6 white and 6 Blue could do. with 3w LED`s.
After so much reading in this Thread I think I could get this stuff put together, but still being puzzled by the dimming possebiliety and the newest kind of choice for the actual LED`s.
The Tank runs with 2x39W Powercompacts. So I do not whant to burn my stuff in there, so something a little brighter would do. I`m verry open for suggestions or links to a Built like this for nanos/29Gal.

Thanks so much,
Helmut
 
sammy113,

Definitely interested in how this works for you.

I have a 125G with ~1000 W of light on it.

I plan on replacing this with LEDs and I am OK with reducing PAR a little as my colonies have grown out enough that I can back off a little.

Are you planning on doing some before & after PAR measurements?

Nice work too! Very clean looking.

Are those the Meanwells showing through in the empty space?

Stu
 
DFason-

I'm glad another person is on board with tight optics :) The video is showing as you independently dim the blues and whites, anything I'm missing?

Widmer - The tight optics are the way to go. You can just do so many things with them.

I am not just dimming them. I have been working on a controller that has an OLED screen, buttons to scroll through the options, USB hookup, program to change settings ( tstorms, clouds, dusk, dawn, ect ), built in drivers. That video was just a code to make it look like a Mac computer on sleep mode.

How is your set up doing?

-Dave
 
Hi Friends,
Please can I have the online store address again where to get these Supplies.
Also a List for Material (LED`s and type, also the mean well Parts and so) to built a light Fixture what could fit in the Hood of a 29 Gal. Biocube. I think 6 white and 6 Blue could do. with 3w LED`s.
After so much reading in this Thread I think I could get this stuff put together, but still being puzzled by the dimming possebiliety and the newest kind of choice for the actual LED`s.
The Tank runs with 2x39W Powercompacts. So I do not whant to burn my stuff in there, so something a little brighter would do. I`m verry open for suggestions or links to a Built like this for nanos/29Gal.

Thanks so much,
Helmut

a few pages back you will see what i did with mine
 
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