DIY LEDs - The write-up

[kcress]

I've got problem with my DIY lamp.

To Meanwell ELN-60-48D I connected 12 XP-G in series.
I gave from 5 to 9V to DIM +/- on Meanwell and only first 5 leds and last one in series works. Others don't :-(
When I try them using 2 AA batteries everything works fine.

You have two shorts. Both are shorts to the chassis. One is running into the chassis and the other is running back out of the chassis back into the string.

Turn it all off and using the 2AAs try to light up each LED from the chassis to the other (sign) pad. You should find this possible with the correct connections on the two LEDs bracketing the problem. A meter would be much faster.

 

[rpp]

chris023 & kcress thats it - shorts on Stars. Thanks.

And one more question - my Meanwell give more than 1.3A (ELN-60-48D should give maximum 1.3A). When I DIM it with 9V current is 1.5A and I still have possibility to increase it. Does the Meanwell is broken?
Second thing - on typical LED there should be 3.6-3.7V - I've got max. 3.2V - why? (XP-G, current set to 1.3A). DIM voltage is set to 9V (not max. 10V - at this moment I don't have such power supply) - is it because of this voltage?

 

[kcress]

And one more question - my Meanwell give more than 1.3A (ELN-60-48D should give maximum 1.3A). When I DIM it with 9V current is 1.5A and I still have possibility to increase it. Does the Meanwell is broken?

Possibly, but I would suspect your meter or other measurement tool first.

Second thing - on typical LED there should be 3.6-3.7V - I've got max. 3.2V - why? (XP-G, current set to 1.3A). DIM voltage is set to 9V (not max. 10V - at this moment I don't have such power supply) - is it because of this voltage?

??? These aren't "typical". They're the most efficient LEDs made by man so far. They are supposed to be around 3.3V each. Not 3.6 or 3.7 unless you are driving them extremely hard.

 

[aquaenthusiast]

I figured there would be no better place to get answers about led's than this thread with all the led gurus on here. I'm fairly noobish to led's in terms of their dimming/timing options so go light on me here. I have a RKL and wondering if the ALC module would be able to control/dim/on a timer etc with this light bulb?

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=702

I guess my real question is: If this light can dim with the remote, then the actual dimming "control" is inside the fixture? Yes? No? If the dimming control is in fact inside the fixture then shouldn't the Reefkeeper ALC module be able to dim it on a lighting schedule?

 

[TheFishMan65]

You might be able to hack something. There is dimming iside the bulb, but who knows if it is RKL compatible. It is also only 12 watts. Do you are going to need a lot of them. You would get a lot more light for your money doing it with an ELNs.

 

[MosMike]

aquaenthusiast
I have a similar RGB bulb. The dimming is inside the bulb and worst of all it has no memory, so it resets to factory default at each power off.

 

[kcress]

Also you'd need to be reallly careful as there is likely no isolation from the mains inside it.

 

[aquaenthusiast]

Also you'd need to be reallly careful as there is likely no isolation from the mains inside it.

You mean insulation for excessive heat? The leds are 1 watt, would they get too hot ?

What about the possibility of finding a universal remote controller (IR) and programming it to be on a timed lighting schedule?

 

[kcress]

No. Isolation from 120Volts AC. All the drivers we use around here in DIY electrically isolate their outputs from direct connection to the power mains (wall outlet). This is a huge point of safety and likely is not done inside a fixture like that 'bulb'. The isolation costs money and can be avoided if the maker expects no one to mucking around inside their product.

 

[aquaenthusiast]

No. Isolation from 120Volts AC. All the drivers we use around here in DIY electrically isolate their outputs from direct connection to the power mains (wall outlet). This is a huge point of safety and likely is not done inside a fixture like that 'bulb'. The isolation costs money and can be avoided if the maker expects no one to mucking around inside their product.

Ok I see what you mean

 

[rpp]

So it's time to show my DIY lamp.

There are 27 white XP-G and 45 XP-E Royal Blue.

Project is not finished yet (there'll be fans for cooling) but it works.

At the begining all components: lamp + power supplies + Profilux which control it:

Focus on power supplies

And working lamp:

 

[kcress]

Nice job! I have a hard time believing you need any fans. If that thing is not enclosed you'll be fine.

I hope you're protecting that small fortune with a shield of some sort.

 

[kcress]

Nice job! I have a hard time believing you need any fans. If that thing is not enclosed you'll be fine.

I hope you're protecting that small fortune with a shield of some sort.

 

[TheFishMan65]

It seems like an odd distribution. Why did you place them in that order? Looks great!

 

[rpp]

Nice job! I have a hard time believing you need any fans. If that thing is not enclosed you'll be fine.

Thanks. I still consider if it's really necessary to use fans. Anyway I've got them so probably will install.

I hope you're protecting that small fortune with a shield of some sort.

Sorry but I didn't understand that (due to my poor English :spin2: ).

It seems like an odd distribution. Why did you place them in that order? Looks great!

Well - you're right. There are odd distribution because I spoil some XP-G leds (wrong soldering - probably too long made shortcut to MCPCB). I bought more Royal Blue with a view to moonlight but I had to use them instead spoiled XP-G. Plan is to replace at least 3 RB to CW (those in middle line) but I have to buy them first.

 

[kcress]

Do you have a splash shield to protect your expensive LEDs?

 

[rpp]

kcrees - at this moment no (I even don't have aquarium yet ) but of course I plan to install some 3mm clear plexi (?PMMA?).

And one more question to sb who use Meanwell ELN-60-48D.
When I switch them off and control signal at the end is ca. 1-1.5V after 20-40 seconds I've got one additional led's flash (leds start lighting from begining to ca. 30-50% of their power in 0.2-0.3s and switch off).
When in Profilux I increase start/stop level from 1V to 1.8V (best to 2V) after switching off nothing like this happened.
I've got 6 Meanwells and all of theme has same behaviour (on string with XP-G it's enough to increase from 1 to 1.6V).

Does anyone has similar problem?

I use EVG-AP-2F module to cut power and I hear that relays work - this flash is after it.

 

[boboxx]

rpp, nice job where did you get those enclosere box?

 

[rpp]

boboxx - did you mean those boxes between Meanwells?
If yes - there are electrical cable boxes from store with building equipment like Castorama/Praktiker/OBI (I don't know which one you have)

 

[GEORGEDOPE]

rpp - I have the same problem. I have 2 ELN-60-48's running 30 LEDS throught a Proflux II Light. They dim down perfectly and when the EVG-AP-2F
cuts the power to the drivers the LEDs flash. I think there needs to be a switch that cuts the line from the driver to the LEDS before the power is cut to the drivers. But this seams to be complicating the set up more. Is there something that can be up in the line to suck up the juice from the capacitor?
I don't know. Does anybody out there know?