DIY LEDs - The write-up
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perikaruppan
Member
Been using LEDs for atleast 1.5 years now.. initially was using Edision LEDs, now have XPGs-CWs and XPE-RB's (96 in All, 2:1 Ratio) on my 120 Gallon Tank....
in that combo,
XPG CW - 32
XPG NW - 6
XPE RB - 52
XPE Blue - 6
I am not able to get my corals to colour up... all my water parameters are the constant and within norms as all wants them...
People say, using UV will color them up as that brings up the zoanthella to make the colours (thats why coloration in MH is far better).. is it true?
Should i add UV LEDs or should replace my Cool Whites, with Warm Whites?
most of my corals are brownish.. actually when i purchased they were purplish though.
in that combo,
XPG CW - 32
XPG NW - 6
XPE RB - 52
XPE Blue - 6
I am not able to get my corals to colour up... all my water parameters are the constant and within norms as all wants them...
People say, using UV will color them up as that brings up the zoanthella to make the colours (thats why coloration in MH is far better).. is it true?
Should i add UV LEDs or should replace my Cool Whites, with Warm Whites?
most of my corals are brownish.. actually when i purchased they were purplish though.
TheFishMan65
New member
Bpro, sound reasonable to me. Everyone case is different which is while I tried to do the math and let you decide what is best. I think we are 12-15 here and I went Cree.
lpsouth1978
New member
I have been working on a new LED build for my solana. It is WAY overkill, but I am looking at getting a larger tank and wanted to be able to use this over it when I get it rather than building another light. Here are the specs:
Custom built 18x18 heatsink
24 - 20k 3w LED's
24 - RB 3w LED's
12 - 10k 3w LED's
6 - standard blue 3w LED's
3 - UV 3w LED's
3 - Red 3w LED's
4 - RB moonlight 3w LED's
12 - 700mA dimmable buckpucks
1 - 350mA dimmable buckpucks
60 degree optics
All of the LED's amd optics were purchased from Satisled and my total cost for this fixture had been right about $500.
Yes, that is 72 LED's over a 34 gallon tank. As I said, it is WAY overkill, but should work nicely over a larger tank as well (looking at a 92 corner tank).
I am hoping that by putting so many different colors I can get closer to a full spectrum.
I was unable to find a heatsink that was large enough to work over the tank, at least at a decent price, so I decided to build my own. It is sort of an unorthodox idea but it seems to be working. I got a 1/4 inch aluminum plate and attached a bunch of 1/4 inch "C" channel to it. these are bolted to the plate and have thermal paste between them and the aluminum plate. Here are some pics to give you an idea what I did.
I am still working on all of the wiring, but so far I have all of the 20k, RB, and half of the 10k LED's wired. I set it up so that the 20K, RB, 10k, Satndard Blue, and RB moonlights will each be dimmable seperate from each other. The red and UV will be dimmed together since they are on the same buckpuck. This should give me unlimited control over the color mix and intensity of the light. Here are a few more pics of what I have so far.
Here is a drawing showing the layout of the LED's that I decided on. The section at one end with no LED's it the back of the fixture.
Custom built 18x18 heatsink
24 - 20k 3w LED's
24 - RB 3w LED's
12 - 10k 3w LED's
6 - standard blue 3w LED's
3 - UV 3w LED's
3 - Red 3w LED's
4 - RB moonlight 3w LED's
12 - 700mA dimmable buckpucks
1 - 350mA dimmable buckpucks
60 degree optics
All of the LED's amd optics were purchased from Satisled and my total cost for this fixture had been right about $500.
Yes, that is 72 LED's over a 34 gallon tank. As I said, it is WAY overkill, but should work nicely over a larger tank as well (looking at a 92 corner tank).
I am hoping that by putting so many different colors I can get closer to a full spectrum.
I was unable to find a heatsink that was large enough to work over the tank, at least at a decent price, so I decided to build my own. It is sort of an unorthodox idea but it seems to be working. I got a 1/4 inch aluminum plate and attached a bunch of 1/4 inch "C" channel to it. these are bolted to the plate and have thermal paste between them and the aluminum plate. Here are some pics to give you an idea what I did.
I am still working on all of the wiring, but so far I have all of the 20k, RB, and half of the 10k LED's wired. I set it up so that the 20K, RB, 10k, Satndard Blue, and RB moonlights will each be dimmable seperate from each other. The red and UV will be dimmed together since they are on the same buckpuck. This should give me unlimited control over the color mix and intensity of the light. Here are a few more pics of what I have so far.
Here is a drawing showing the layout of the LED's that I decided on. The section at one end with no LED's it the back of the fixture.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
My opinion is you should remove some of the whites and dial back the RBs. In my 1.5 years experimenting i found that too much white caused the corals to not color up. Brown color is a perfect example....look at chalices....usually very dull if too much light.
In my 120 with 18 CW, 6 NW, 50 RB I am getting intense purples and greens on my acros .... Much better than when I got them. This is a newer tank though so time will tell but I ended up here from 1.5 years of experimenting on a couple smaller tanks.
perikaruppan
Member
ok will replace the CWs with RBs... and dial up the RBs to 100% and see what can be made... thanks for the input
bhammer
Addicted User
My 280g Build
I hope this isn't too much information and too many questions for one post.
My tank is 72X36 and is 24" deep and about 32" from hood top to the sand bed. I have SPS, LPS and softies. Currently, I run 3 250w MH and 4 54w T5. I run an Apex and will use this to accomplish sunrise and sunset effects. I am shooting for 1 LED per 13 sq. in. of tank. Here is what I am looking at:
1) 120 XP-E Royal Blues @ 750 "“ 800 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 2 HLG-185-48 driving 4 strings each with 12 LEDs (96 LEDs)
b) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 2 strings with 12 LEDs (24 LEDs)
i) Two extra strings avail to drive the blue
2) 12 XP-E Blues @ 750 "“ 800 mA
a) Use HLG driver from 1 b above
3) 60 XP-G Cool Whites @ 1100 "“ 1200 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 3 strings each with 12 LEDs (36 LEDs)
b) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 2 strings each with 12 LEDs (24 LEDs)
i) One extra string avail to drive neutral white
4) 12 XP-G Neutral Whites @ 1100 "“ 1200 mA
a) Use HLG driver from 3 b above
Is there a more efficient way to set this up? I'd like the major color group to each be dimmable as I feel I can mix and match colors in the blues and whites to fine tune the overall color look. Am I thinking the right way with this? I would order 130 RB, 16 B, 65 CW & 16 NW to have some to play with.
I plan on using 1" u-channel for the heat sink as traditional heat sink would cost too much and weight would be a big issue. Can I mount the u-channel to one sheet of aluminum or should there be air space between each of the channels? I saw a thread where someone said there should be space but there were mounting u-channel on top of each other.
I have read and re-read many of the threads. A couple of questions that I can't seem to pinpoint.
I love the idea of using the 1 ohm resistors to measure the strings. Would I run the 1 ohm on each of the blue and white strings or would I want a 1.5 ohm for the white strings?
In all my reading outside of RC, I see that folks are using resistors to protect their series-parallel strings. It looks like groups of 2 or 3 LEDs are protected by a single resistor. Here, I see that people are using fuses to protect the string. If one LED fails, it essentially causes all strings fuses for that driver to trip. I think it would be difficult to find the LED that went bad? What are the pros / cons of going resistor versus fuses? Or, am I just missing some concept?
Is there a specific LED bin I am looking for, for each color?
I will probably order everything at the same time but end up building 3 separate units that can be mounted in my hood. This way, I can pull each assembly out but haven't quite figured out the layout as well as making sure they get hooked up the right dimming channel on the apex.
I hope this isn't too much information and too many questions for one post.
My tank is 72X36 and is 24" deep and about 32" from hood top to the sand bed. I have SPS, LPS and softies. Currently, I run 3 250w MH and 4 54w T5. I run an Apex and will use this to accomplish sunrise and sunset effects. I am shooting for 1 LED per 13 sq. in. of tank. Here is what I am looking at:
1) 120 XP-E Royal Blues @ 750 "“ 800 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 2 HLG-185-48 driving 4 strings each with 12 LEDs (96 LEDs)
b) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 2 strings with 12 LEDs (24 LEDs)
i) Two extra strings avail to drive the blue
2) 12 XP-E Blues @ 750 "“ 800 mA
a) Use HLG driver from 1 b above
3) 60 XP-G Cool Whites @ 1100 "“ 1200 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 3 strings each with 12 LEDs (36 LEDs)
b) 1 HLG-185-48 driving 2 strings each with 12 LEDs (24 LEDs)
i) One extra string avail to drive neutral white
4) 12 XP-G Neutral Whites @ 1100 "“ 1200 mA
a) Use HLG driver from 3 b above
Is there a more efficient way to set this up? I'd like the major color group to each be dimmable as I feel I can mix and match colors in the blues and whites to fine tune the overall color look. Am I thinking the right way with this? I would order 130 RB, 16 B, 65 CW & 16 NW to have some to play with.
I plan on using 1" u-channel for the heat sink as traditional heat sink would cost too much and weight would be a big issue. Can I mount the u-channel to one sheet of aluminum or should there be air space between each of the channels? I saw a thread where someone said there should be space but there were mounting u-channel on top of each other.
I have read and re-read many of the threads. A couple of questions that I can't seem to pinpoint.
I love the idea of using the 1 ohm resistors to measure the strings. Would I run the 1 ohm on each of the blue and white strings or would I want a 1.5 ohm for the white strings?
In all my reading outside of RC, I see that folks are using resistors to protect their series-parallel strings. It looks like groups of 2 or 3 LEDs are protected by a single resistor. Here, I see that people are using fuses to protect the string. If one LED fails, it essentially causes all strings fuses for that driver to trip. I think it would be difficult to find the LED that went bad? What are the pros / cons of going resistor versus fuses? Or, am I just missing some concept?
Is there a specific LED bin I am looking for, for each color?
I will probably order everything at the same time but end up building 3 separate units that can be mounted in my hood. This way, I can pull each assembly out but haven't quite figured out the layout as well as making sure they get hooked up the right dimming channel on the apex.
You could save yourself an HLG driver by using 2x HLG-185-30B and run the 12 blues from an ELN 60-48.
That way you can adjust the blues and royal blues seperately.
Using driver 1B to do that would make 3 strings running @ 1300mA, that's too much.
Adding one more string will solve the problem. Or just 2 HLG-185-30B which can run 64 LEDs @ 750/760 each, and mix the 12 blue's in.
The resistors are for measuring the current only, and that's why you need 1 ohm resistors (U=I*R) By measuring the voltage through the resistor, you will know the current without doing any math or 1) switching off the power, 2) disconnecting the wires, 3) get the probes in place, 4) switching on the power again,5) read the current, 6) switching off the power again, 7) removing the probes, 8) connecting the wires again and up to the next string.
One misstake like forgetting to switch off the driver, could mean bye-bye to the LEDs
So, they do not protect the strings, although you should think so, but they will protect you from driving nuts going through all the hassle.
Protecting the string is where the fuse comes in.
With or without fuses, to find the bad LED you need to go through the same steps in order to find the culprit. But I'd rather have a fast acting $ 0.50 fuse to blow than the first or more LEDs in the next string. I can't find the topic right away, but it's an already proven safety precaution.
That way you can adjust the blues and royal blues seperately.
Using driver 1B to do that would make 3 strings running @ 1300mA, that's too much.
Adding one more string will solve the problem. Or just 2 HLG-185-30B which can run 64 LEDs @ 750/760 each, and mix the 12 blue's in.
The resistors are for measuring the current only, and that's why you need 1 ohm resistors (U=I*R) By measuring the voltage through the resistor, you will know the current without doing any math or 1) switching off the power, 2) disconnecting the wires, 3) get the probes in place, 4) switching on the power again,5) read the current, 6) switching off the power again, 7) removing the probes, 8) connecting the wires again and up to the next string.
One misstake like forgetting to switch off the driver, could mean bye-bye to the LEDs
So, they do not protect the strings, although you should think so, but they will protect you from driving nuts going through all the hassle.
Protecting the string is where the fuse comes in.
With or without fuses, to find the bad LED you need to go through the same steps in order to find the culprit. But I'd rather have a fast acting $ 0.50 fuse to blow than the first or more LEDs in the next string. I can't find the topic right away, but it's an already proven safety precaution.
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
I decided to put optics on everything and dial it back....DWZM...Jimmy...you are so right about the difference in look. Contrast is stunning....shimmer is not so 'nervous' and more appealing. Although with my short heatsink design its lacking a tad on the ends now but I really like it and my wife approves! Its very dramatic looking. Good call guys!
Jimmy thanks for pulling your optics and reporting how disappointed you were
:bounce2:
bhammer
Addicted User
Thank you jimmy54. I wasn't thinking about the extra current that would have been available. So this is what I have:
1) 128 XP-E Royal Blues @ 750 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 2 HLG-185-30 driving 8 strings each with 8 LEDs (128 LEDs)
2) 12 XP-E Blues @ 750 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 1 ELN-60-48 driving 1 string with 12 LEDs (12 LEDs)
Thanks for the resistor info. I had read that but I guess where my confussion came in was thinking that a 1 ohm resistor would limit the current available.
1) 128 XP-E Royal Blues @ 750 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 2 HLG-185-30 driving 8 strings each with 8 LEDs (128 LEDs)
2) 12 XP-E Blues @ 750 mA (One dimmable set)
a) 1 ELN-60-48 driving 1 string with 12 LEDs (12 LEDs)
Thanks for the resistor info. I had read that but I guess where my confussion came in was thinking that a 1 ohm resistor would limit the current available.
bmwaaron
New member
I decided to put optics on everything and dial it back....DWZM...Jimmy...you are so right about the difference in look. Contrast is stunning....shimmer is not so 'nervous' and more appealing. Although with my short heatsink design its lacking a tad on the ends now but I really like it and my wife approves! Its very dramatic looking. Good call guys!
Jimmy thanks for pulling your optics and reporting how disappointed you were
Which optics did you go with?
I ordered 55 degree for my Royal Blues and 80 degree for my Neutral whites.
Seeking some advice and feed back on the below...before I place my order :bounce3:
I've spent hours going through this thread and referenced threads :hmm3: and have come up with the following design for my 165G (625L) mixed reef tank (more of the SPS's though).
As I live down under in New Zealand I have to be smart about importing. Shipping costs are expensive so am planning to get all components from RapidLEDs, apart from the heat sinks.
Components will comprise of:
34 - CREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED
6 - CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G Neutral White 3W LED
Total = 72 LEDs @ 60\40 Ratio
~60deg Optics (thinking no optics for the Blue LEDs - thoughts anyone??)
2 - Mean Well HLG 185H-42B drivers (PWM - Seeeduino controlled)
2 - 5.3"x 45" Heat Sinks (sourced in NZ)
Splash guard
Scketch's:
LED Placement
LED Fixture
Tank View - ~14" above water surface
If my calculations are right the MW HLG 185H-42B units seem to be the best fit for my requirements (RapidLED can source other HLG units but will be more expensive)
Staying away from 6 ELN drivers! I was just about ready some weeks back to by but then was deterred from this many ELN's, had to rethink my whole design.
Running array in parallel strings - MAX Calculations
MW Driver 1: RB\B strings: 4 (strings) x10 (LEDs) @ 75% (750mA) = 3Amps
MW Driver 2: CW\NW strings: 4 (strings) x8 (LEDs) @ 70% (1050mA) = 4.2Amps (more likely to run @ 700-900mA)
Strings are well within driver capacity and have done it this way to keep things simple. Each row will have 2 individual strings: 1 x RB (B) and 1 x NW\CW
Same for the white strings
As for the LED colouration, I've used these post as a reference:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885076&page=18 Post 440
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17928787&postcount=503
I don't want to overdo the blue LEDs so was thinking of not using optics in the aim of getting more spread.
I"ve also gone for a 1:1 CW\NW mix. Some reefers I see have mixed ~2:1 CW\NW and only to say later that they would have added more NW.
Thanks in advance....
I've spent hours going through this thread and referenced threads :hmm3: and have come up with the following design for my 165G (625L) mixed reef tank (more of the SPS's though).
As I live down under in New Zealand I have to be smart about importing. Shipping costs are expensive so am planning to get all components from RapidLEDs, apart from the heat sinks.
Components will comprise of:
34 - CREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED
6 - CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G Neutral White 3W LED
Total = 72 LEDs @ 60\40 Ratio
~60deg Optics (thinking no optics for the Blue LEDs - thoughts anyone??)
2 - Mean Well HLG 185H-42B drivers (PWM - Seeeduino controlled)
2 - 5.3"x 45" Heat Sinks (sourced in NZ)
Splash guard
Scketch's:
LED Placement
LED Fixture
Tank View - ~14" above water surface
If my calculations are right the MW HLG 185H-42B units seem to be the best fit for my requirements (RapidLED can source other HLG units but will be more expensive)
Staying away from 6 ELN drivers! I was just about ready some weeks back to by but then was deterred from this many ELN's, had to rethink my whole design.
Running array in parallel strings - MAX Calculations
MW Driver 1: RB\B strings: 4 (strings) x10 (LEDs) @ 75% (750mA) = 3Amps
MW Driver 2: CW\NW strings: 4 (strings) x8 (LEDs) @ 70% (1050mA) = 4.2Amps (more likely to run @ 700-900mA)
Strings are well within driver capacity and have done it this way to keep things simple. Each row will have 2 individual strings: 1 x RB (B) and 1 x NW\CW
Same for the white strings
As for the LED colouration, I've used these post as a reference:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885076&page=18 Post 440
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17928787&postcount=503
I don't want to overdo the blue LEDs so was thinking of not using optics in the aim of getting more spread.
I"ve also gone for a 1:1 CW\NW mix. Some reefers I see have mixed ~2:1 CW\NW and only to say later that they would have added more NW.
Thanks in advance....
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
All 60 degree. I have a few 80 degree I may play around with on the ends but as of now its all 60 degree
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Seeking some advice and feed back on the below...before I place my order :bounce3:
I've spent hours going through this thread and referenced threads :hmm3: and have come up with the following design for my 165G (625L) mixed reef tank (more of the SPS's though).
As I live down under in New Zealand I have to be smart about importing. Shipping costs are expensive so am planning to get all components from RapidLEDs, apart from the heat sinks.
Components will comprise of:
34 - CREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED
6 - CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED
16 - CREE XP-G Neutral White 3W LED
Total = 72 LEDs @ 60\40 Ratio
~60deg Optics (thinking no optics for the Blue LEDs - thoughts anyone??)
2 - Mean Well HLG 185H-42B drivers (PWM - Seeeduino controlled)
2 - 5.3"x 45" Heat Sinks (sourced in NZ)
Splash guard
If my calculations are right the MW HLG 185H-42B units seem to be the best fit for my requirements (RapidLED can source other HLG units but will be more expensive)
Staying away from 6 ELN drivers! I was just about ready some weeks back to by but then was deterred from this many ELN's, had to rethink my whole design.
Running array in parallel strings - MAX Calculations
MW Driver 1: RB\B strings: 4 (strings) x10 (LEDs) @ 75% (750mA) = 3Amps
MW Driver 2: CW\NW strings: 4 (strings) x8 (LEDs) @ 70% (1050mA) = 4.2Amps (more likely to run @ 700-900mA)
Strings are well within driver capacity and have done it this way to keep things simple. Each row will have 2 individual strings: 1 x RB (B) and 1 x NW\CW
Same for the white strings
As for the LED colouration, I've used these post as a reference:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885076&page=18 Post 440
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17928787&postcount=503
I don't want to overdo the blue LEDs so was thinking of not using optics in the aim of getting more spread.
I"ve also gone for a 1:1 CW\NW mix. Some reefers I see have mixed ~2:1 CW\NW and only to say later that they would have added more NW.
Thanks in advance....
Nice sketch work. Everything looks good to me but I would question if you have enough coverage not knowing the tank dimensions. On my 120G 4x2x2 tank 72 is perfect for me and without optics PAR was pretty stout. I keep acros, montis, pavona, etc with higher lighting needs and they are responding nicely for me. I'm only 8" above the water so you will get more spread but with optics the ends of my tank are shadowed now....using a 36" heatsink on a 48" tank though....was fine without optics...looks great still for me.
bhammer
Addicted User
I was looking for an alternative because I couldn't find the usual heatsinks.
Eventually I've found a bunch of small heatsinks - they're only 5.9" x 3.8" - and screwed them on to 3 U frames.
If the idea had come up of using U frames mounted on an aluminum plate, I absolutely would have gone that way.
Eventually I've found a bunch of small heatsinks - they're only 5.9" x 3.8" - and screwed them on to 3 U frames.
If the idea had come up of using U frames mounted on an aluminum plate, I absolutely would have gone that way.
kcress
New member
Volkster; Welcome to RC. You certainly hit the ground running.. Thanks for reading before asking!
Seems like you have a pretty good grip on things. As BMBalls sez, we can't really say without the tank dimensions, (not gallons or liters).
Don't forget the resistors and fuses and terminal blocks, I saw no mention of them in your thread.
Have you seen jpcusa's thread? It shows/discusses the meat of parallel setup and commissioning.
Seems like you have a pretty good grip on things. As BMBalls sez, we can't really say without the tank dimensions, (not gallons or liters).
Don't forget the resistors and fuses and terminal blocks, I saw no mention of them in your thread.
Have you seen jpcusa's thread? It shows/discusses the meat of parallel setup and commissioning.
Yup...have been studing JP's thread very closely, taking special note to the testing and balancing pages.
Fuses, resistors, terminal blocks...oh yea...they will be there too:thumbsup: (forgot to mention them).
Tank Dimensions:
~60" L x 27" W x 22" H (150cm x 70cm x 55cm)
I'm fairly confident that the spread will be ok. Sketched up 60deg optics and if the drawing is anything to go by, it will be spot on
Have a look (note: this was not by design, I positioned the fixture in my sketch and it just slotted in very snug :bounce1
Left Side View
Front View (Left Side)
The outer spread actually enters through the bracing and this does this for all 4 sides.
I know it's a guideline but I guess time will tell. And if I raise or lower the fixture it will change too...but not anything to be concerned about.
I have made room for 2 extra LEDs (on either side) of the heatsink to extend the LEDs to 80 if I need to. So always have that to call on if need be.
So what dyou think
Fuses, resistors, terminal blocks...oh yea...they will be there too:thumbsup: (forgot to mention them).
Tank Dimensions:
~60" L x 27" W x 22" H (150cm x 70cm x 55cm)
I'm fairly confident that the spread will be ok. Sketched up 60deg optics and if the drawing is anything to go by, it will be spot on
Have a look (note: this was not by design, I positioned the fixture in my sketch and it just slotted in very snug :bounce1
Left Side View
Front View (Left Side)
The outer spread actually enters through the bracing and this does this for all 4 sides.
I know it's a guideline but I guess time will tell. And if I raise or lower the fixture it will change too...but not anything to be concerned about.
I have made room for 2 extra LEDs (on either side) of the heatsink to extend the LEDs to 80 if I need to. So always have that to call on if need be.
So what dyou think
kcress
New member
60 x 27 / 16 = 101 LEDs.
That is a general starting point for an SPS rated tank of your linear dimensions. You seem a little light there... 25 LEDs light. Granted you're running the white @900mA instead of 700mA. That will help. You're also running optics. That helps some too.
If you only want the middle of the tank truly bright then it may be fine for you. Essentially you'll be lighting a smaller tank.
One thought: You could build it as-is and leave yourself room for 24 more LEDs somewhere. Then if you really do need more you can add one ELN running 24 more LEDs.
That is a general starting point for an SPS rated tank of your linear dimensions. You seem a little light there... 25 LEDs light. Granted you're running the white @900mA instead of 700mA. That will help. You're also running optics. That helps some too.
If you only want the middle of the tank truly bright then it may be fine for you. Essentially you'll be lighting a smaller tank.
One thought: You could build it as-is and leave yourself room for 24 more LEDs somewhere. Then if you really do need more you can add one ELN running 24 more LEDs.
I did think about have 98 LED's initially but after deciding to go 60deg optics @ 14" high I saw that I could possibly get away with 72. Time will tell
Here's a link to my tank - Aquascaping is not complete on the right hand side, will be a higher wall. It's quite a spacious setup and most of the corals will be at least 4"-5" within :thumbsup: So I should be covered (excuse the pun )
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up5JMiqCxC0
If I find that it doesn't work then will add another small fixture to either side... could even angle it and get a funky sun rise\set feature going :idea:
Thanks for the advice.
Any thoughts on the Blue's having no optics @ that hight. You think it will do what I've after?
Here's a link to my tank - Aquascaping is not complete on the right hand side, will be a higher wall. It's quite a spacious setup and most of the corals will be at least 4"-5" within :thumbsup: So I should be covered (excuse the pun
)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up5JMiqCxC0
If I find that it doesn't work then will add another small fixture to either side... could even angle it and get a funky sun rise\set feature going :idea:
Thanks for the advice.
Any thoughts on the Blue's having no optics @ that hight. You think it will do what I've after?
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