DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?

I took a piece of square tube aluminum, had a friend weld in a 90(although you could have it slowly bent) then painted it flat blck and bolted it you the back of my stand(on my 90gal) Then the radions on that tank are bolted to rails and the rail is suspended to the aluminum. It will be bolted here shortly.

On my 24 gal NanoCube, I am going to get the heatsink from rapid LED that is a direct fitment.
 
dwolson2 said:
I took a piece of square tube aluminum, had a friend weld in a 90(although you could have it slowly bent) then painted it flat blck and bolted it you the back of my stand(on my 90gal) Then the radions on that tank are bolted to rails and the rail is suspended to the aluminum. It will be bolted here shortly.

On my 24 gal NanoCube, I am going to get the heatsink from rapid LED that is a direct fitment.
Click to expand...

If you did the 90 idea, you could step up the size of the tubing attached to the stand with a hole and bolt that goes through it so you could then slide your light side mount tube into it with multiple holes for adjusting height.
 
Thank you guys so much for sourcing the connector, makes it much easier for me as I won't have my pucks until May when I go to the US for my sisters wedding.

That way I'll have everything pre built and just attach the pucks when I get back
 
_shorty_ said:
If you did the 90 idea, you could step up the size of the tubing attached to the stand with a hole and bolt that goes through it so you could then slide your light side mount tube into it with multiple holes for adjusting height.
Click to expand...

Thats not a bad idea. Are the "you" you were reffering to me or Pete? Mine is already bolted, so I won't be changing mine.
 
so for the G1 we need the 14 pin connector..
for the g2 we need the 16 pin connector?
Can anyone verify if the G2 and G3 have the same pin count?
How about pro vs normal models?
 
I think they do. I wasn't allowed to get the g3 pucks for my g1, I had to send them in to get upgraded.
On the g2 I have, I played around with it, and could not get it to work on my multimeter(like I was told to try) My battery tester is at home, so I won't be able to give a pin out anytime soon. Hopefully someone else has better luck.
 
dwolson2 said:
I think they do. I wasn't allowed to get the g3 pucks for my g1, I had to send them in to get upgraded.
On the g2 I have, I played around with it, and could not get it to work on my multimeter(like I was told to try) My battery tester is at home, so I won't be able to give a pin out anytime soon. Hopefully someone else has better luck.
Click to expand...

G2 & G3 look to be the same MCPCB with modified LED selections.
From bottom up (plug on right)
1 & 10 = + & - for 4 x violets (blanks on non-pro)
2 & 9 = + & - for 4 x cool white
3 & 8 = + & - for 4 x royal blue
4 & 7 = + & - for 4 x blue
5 & 12 = + & - for 2 x red & 1 x center (blank on non-pro)
6 & 11 = + & - for 2 x green

13 - 16 I can't say for sure yet. I believe 13 is not used and 14-16 are for the temperature circuit, but I haven't tested anything to figure out which pin is which yet.
 
Any idea what the fv is on those leds? I'm thinking tie all the blues together, but I'm not sure if I can get by with a 24v power supply. I've seen some laptop 24v 4a for 25$+5$ shipping on Amazon. I know I'd be good for the other channels.
 
Xpe-less than 3.5(3.5@1a)
Xte-less than 3.1(@1a)
Green is less than 3.8(@1a)
Maybe I can tie in a set of blues and the green to stay under 24v
 
Last edited:
dwolson2 said:
Any idea what the fv is on those leds? I'm thinking tie all the blues together, but I'm not sure if I can get by with a 24v power supply. I've seen some laptop 24v 4a for 25$+5$ shipping on Amazon. I know I'd be good for the other channels.
Click to expand...

dwolson2 said:
Xpe-less than 3.5(3.5@1a)
Xte-less than 3.1(@1a)
Click to expand...

Gonna need more than a 100w power supply.. X 2. I'd find a proper power supply that can handle both pucks with some wattage to spare. Remember the drivers will use some of that voltage so you can't calculate your led voltages up to the peak of your power supply.
 
dwolson2 said:
Xpe-less than 3.5(3.5@1a)
Xte-less than 3.1(@1a)
Green is less than 3.8(@1a)
Maybe I can tie in a set of blues and the green to stay under 24v
Click to expand...

Another driver is only a few bucks. Why not keep them separate. Also the white and royal blues can run up to 1.5A.
 
_shorty_ said:
Gonna need more than a 100w power supply.. X 2. I'd find a proper power supply that can handle both pucks with some wattage to spare. Remember the drivers will use some of that voltage so you can't calculate your led voltages up to the peak of your power supply.
Click to expand...
The power supply I'm looking at is 24v and 4 amps. I'm only driving one puck.
_shorty_ said:
Another driver is only a few bucks. Why not keep them separate. Also the white and royal blues can run up to 1.5A.
Click to expand...
The drivers I have are 700ma, and the board is set up for 700ma. I just won't run them at their max capability. I'm only lighting a 24g jbj.
Also my board only holds 4 drivers.
 
Oh, ok. That sounds a little better then. :). I see why you are trying to combine now. I'm not sure which channels I would combine, then...
 
I think it's going to be regular blue and either red or green. I think I'll go for red. Connector and heatsink are on the way. I'll order the power supply, thermal adhesive and last driver tomorrow.
 
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