DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?
- Thread starter rcmike
- Start date
_shorty_
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Actually, I just ordered some LDD-1500Ls for this project.
_shorty_
New member
I think there's a clue in ecotech using a 36v 4.2a supply
If my calcs are correct, 36V can run both pucks in series (keeping color strings separate, of course)
I ordered a MW SE-600-36 (36v @ 16A) for 4pucks plus extra LEDs added to the build (violets, cyans, & low nm reds).
one clownfish
Member
Thanks for posting this. When holding the puck with the LEDs facing up and looking the pins. The number one pin is at the left, correct. I just received my G2 pucks yesterday and my connectors will be here tomorrow. I'll post back if there's any problems with the connectors. I'm hoping I'll have a working light sometime this week.
_shorty_
New member
Yep! Left is 1. Looking forward to hearing how well the plug fits.
CrazyEyes
New member
This might be a dumb question. That PS is a 597.6 watts. Does that mean when it comes to how many watts the actual fixture uses, will it use 597.6 watts or whatever the actual LEDs are using? I only ask because I am trying to get an idea how many watts this whole tank is going to use and 597 is quite a bit more than 300.
_shorty_
New member
Power supply ratings show you the max power output. Your load (aka your specific combination of drivers and LEDs) determines how much power you are actually consuming.
In general, you just want to make sure your total voltage for each string of LEDs (LEDs in series added up) is less than the than the total voltage of your power supply (minus a couple volts for the driver). In addition you want to make sure your voltage is under the max voltage your driver can output. Also, that the total Amps of each string (in parallel) added up is less than the total Amp rating of the Powersupply.
Those two items (total voltage for the LED string & driving current) multiplied together should be generally how much power you will actually be consuming @ 100% output. You could calculate for each LED string and add them together for your approximate consumed power.
In general, you just want to make sure your total voltage for each string of LEDs (LEDs in series added up) is less than the than the total voltage of your power supply (minus a couple volts for the driver). In addition you want to make sure your voltage is under the max voltage your driver can output. Also, that the total Amps of each string (in parallel) added up is less than the total Amp rating of the Powersupply.
Those two items (total voltage for the LED string & driving current) multiplied together should be generally how much power you will actually be consuming @ 100% output. You could calculate for each LED string and add them together for your approximate consumed power.
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CrazyEyes
New member
I had a feeling it wasn't the PS that determined how many watts were going to be used. Couple other question. I know the LDD-H series are good up to 52V so you can run between 1-16 LEDs(I know that varies due to different forward V of different LEDs) but, it looks like the LDD-L series is only good up to 30V, is that correct?
-I just saw they made a through hole mounting style so I'd assume you can mount these on a regular LDD board, just either soldered to the board or use a different IC socket(if the pins are different than the H).
- Are these PWM dimming? What are your plans on dimming these?
-I just saw they made a through hole mounting style so I'd assume you can mount these on a regular LDD board, just either soldered to the board or use a different IC socket(if the pins are different than the H).
- Are these PWM dimming? What are your plans on dimming these?
_shorty_
New member
Yes, LDD-H outputs up to 52V. LDD-L outputs up to 700 outputs max 32V, and higher outputs max 30V at higher drive currents.
Please note that the 1000 and 1500Ls have the same footprint as the H series, which I did not realize. However, the 1500 I believe has a different pin-out. I had to call in and correct my order after I realized that, so I didn't have a need for multiple format driver circuit boards.
Yes, from what I read, these LDDs are wonderful dimming drivers and very cost effective and efficient. There's a great thread on them specifically.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2222702
Please note that the 1000 and 1500Ls have the same footprint as the H series, which I did not realize. However, the 1500 I believe has a different pin-out. I had to call in and correct my order after I realized that, so I didn't have a need for multiple format driver circuit boards.
Yes, from what I read, these LDDs are wonderful dimming drivers and very cost effective and efficient. There's a great thread on them specifically.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2222702
_shorty_
New member
If you are running 4 pucks, yes. Each LED string should be under 30V if running two pucks in series (keeping each color separate). So you can get by running one -L driver for any single string. If running 4 pucks, yes, more drivers since the combined voltage for each string will be more than the 52V. I plan to run 4 pucks, combining all reds and then all greens each into thier own single strings (across the 4 pucks). The others will be two strings per color across the 4 pucks (one driver per color per pair of pucks). Total of 8 drivers (if powering 4 x Gen2 non-pro pucks without any additional LEDs).
I'm using -Hs for all but my 1500Ls though, as the combined less efficient LED strings (reds and greens) push that 30V mark a little too closely for my taste.
CrazyEyes
New member
Yeah I am going to be using 4 pucks total. I am however building two separate lights. So 2 pucks will be on a set of drivers then the other light will be on another set of drivers. I will probably use the PS you mentioned, just so I only have to have 1 power outlet for the whole light, plus I should have enough power left over for fans. Then just going to hook each set of drivers to a storm controller. I don't think I'll go through the trouble of buying the LDD-L's. I know they're 1.5A vs the 1A but, I really don't feel like ordering more drivers and 1A drivers will be more than enough. I wonder if the radion drivers go all the way to 1.5A.
_shorty_
New member
Someone please double check, but these are the numbers I pulled out of the spc sheets - Per puck (Gen 2 non-pro):
Cree Cool White XT-E x 4: 3.4V @ 1500mA
Cree Royal Blue XT-E x 4: 3.5V @ 1500mA
Cree Blue XP-E x 4: 3.5V @ 1000mA
Cree Green XP-E x 2: 3.8V @ 1000mA
Osram SSL Hyper-Red x 2: 2.6V @ 1000mA
XT-Es (cool whites and R-blues) are the only ones that can go as high as 1500mA. The others max at 1000mA. I think i read on the website some verbiage on ecotech's site that made me think each LED is capable of being max driven.. But I cannot say for sure.
Those Osram Reds are fairly impressive - no wonder why they went with more Osram LEDs in the new generation of these fixtures.
CrazyEyes
New member
Man, that's not too bad. For some reason I thought the Xp-e blues maxed at 1500ma but I was wrong. I guess in that case I could just run the XT-Es on the LDD-L's, then the XP-Es and Hyer reds on 1000H's. 27.2 and 28 forward voltage at 1.5A should be fine, even on the L drivers, and that's IF I was running them at max, which I obviously won't.
one clownfish
Member
We hit a home run on the connector! I bought the crimp style pin connectors but I should've bought the solder type. My crimp tool only goes down to 20 gauge. I was hoping to have a harness made up today. Maybe by the weeks end I'll have the crimp tool or new pins. If someone wants to trade some connectors for some pins, Let me know.
PeteStewardson
Member
one clownfish
Member
shorty posted the pin out for the G2 on page 5, if that's what your looking for
_shorty_
New member
Excellent. Good to hear about the connector. I usually solder my crimp-style pins anyway. I've never had a proper crimping tool.
I plan to make my order for these plugs and some other odds and ends for this and a couple other controller based projects tonight (I wanted to TRY to make as few purchases/orders as possible) and I should have everything I need to start building soon! I'm excited about that.
