hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Is that lph of air that is 1699.2?
DIY Red Dragon Pumps, gathering ideas.
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Is that lph of air that is 1699.2?
Glad I'm not crazy for thinking these were not salt safe!
Hagen HAS to realize a need for these pumps in salt applications. Probably a matter of time til they are SS rather than brass.
quangtam7,
Did you use the stock impeller in your Laguna mod? How is it holding up if so? More info please!
Hagen HAS to realize a need for these pumps in salt applications. Probably a matter of time til they are SS rather than brass.
quangtam7,
Did you use the stock impeller in your Laguna mod? How is it holding up if so? More info please!
Klaus, It is very kind of you to particiapate in this thread! Thanks for you input! It appears that the thread material is much denser than the enkamat Pf4. Is that the material that you had done or is it available commercially?<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9855366#post9855366 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Klaus Jansen
@Creetin...
better, using this new stuff airintake 3300 L/h energyconsuption 60 watts, waterflow 6000 L/h........
regards.. Klaus
Mike
Yes thats lph, 60 scfh. Its pretty quiet, and i should have left more mesh outside the disk. I cannot get more than 60 scfh from the 2905. The flow is greatly reduced with air. I am filling a 5gal bucket with microbubbles, Not no where near klaus's 4000 lph though.
Klaus i wish i could get my hands on that material, But i have no clue where one could get it.
Thanks for the heads up though, Might try to use a bigger disk, or more layers or both.
I don't have a proper vent design for the air intake and that could be why i am not getting more than 60 scfh.
Tomarrows prodject is the air injection, and use more mesh.
Klaus i wish i could get my hands on that material, But i have no clue where one could get it.
Thanks for the heads up though, Might try to use a bigger disk, or more layers or both.
I don't have a proper vent design for the air intake and that could be why i am not getting more than 60 scfh.
Tomarrows prodject is the air injection, and use more mesh.
Creetin, try hanging the mesh over more, leave 1/4 inch between the mesh and the housing. And adding 2 to 3 more layers will help too. I have a feeling the pump can handle the extra layers easily. And I know it will add a lot more air. I would put it as wide as possible without cavitating the pump.
RandyStacyE
New member
What do ya think about cutting out a perfect round pad from some common yet absorbent scrubby pad and treating it with something? Perhaps some plural component fluid that cures VERY hard. Sounds easy enough ... maybe that would keep the pads from disintegrating.
Just thinking out loud ... that would likely be cheaper than fiberglass mesh.
I did tweek it a little bit and got 10 scfh more so i am up to 70 scfh, or close to 2000lph. (1,982.4 LPH to be exact.)
Heres the crude version, I am open to suggestions so if anybody see's what i am overlooking, Please let me know. Any suggestions on how the air should be injected?
I'll add more mesh and let it overhang 1/4 inch like smjtkj suggested. I will pick up a kilowatt meter tomarrow and test.
Its rated at 130 watts but hopefully get it to under 100w
Anywho heres the vid.
Heres the crude version, I am open to suggestions so if anybody see's what i am overlooking, Please let me know. Any suggestions on how the air should be injected?
I'll add more mesh and let it overhang 1/4 inch like smjtkj suggested. I will pick up a kilowatt meter tomarrow and test.
Its rated at 130 watts but hopefully get it to under 100w
Anywho heres the vid.
JCTewks
In Memoriam
creettn: my suggestion would be to put as much mesh on there as it will take so long as it's not rubbing. you might try compressing the mesh as well. I use a piece of GG to hold all the mesh on and sew it on with fishing line. doing that you should be able to get 6= layers of mesh on. you would ahave a denser product, which in my personal experience outperforms the "Fluffy" mesh that most people are doing. I'm getting 20SCFH out of an OTP1000 using an impeller like this.
For injecting the air I would do a gate valve with the angled barb for an adjustable input and 1/2 inch tube instead of the 3/8 you are using now. The less restrictive the air input is the more you will get! I did this with the dart and increased the air drastically. I am using a 3/4 barb on there!<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9856012#post9856012 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Creetin
I did tweek it a little bit and got 10 scfh more so i am up to 70 scfh, or close to 2000lph. (1,982.4 LPH to be exact.)
Heres the crude version, I am open to suggestions so if anybody see's what i am overlooking, Please let me know. Any suggestions on how the air should be injected?
I'll add more mesh and let it overhang 1/4 inch like smjtkj suggested. I will pick up a kilowatt meter tomarrow and test.
Its rated at 130 watts but hopefully get it to under 100w
Anywho heres the vid.
dudedudedude
New member
Creetin,
May want to put a valve on the water intake before the air intake to cut the waterflow a little. The RD has a devise that does this which I believe helps increase the air flow.
May want to put a valve on the water intake before the air intake to cut the waterflow a little. The RD has a devise that does this which I believe helps increase the air flow.
dudedudedude
New member
Also, has anyone tried the Matala materia out. The diameter of the fibers is .18 to .04 mm and is rigid, simular to the experimental RD metal wheel
JCTewks
In Memoriam
someone said they had ordered samples of the matala. i would like to see it. I believ that the mesh needs to be denser than we are making it with the enkamat,,,and the matala seems a costeffective way to accomplish that. the titanium wheel looks cool, i just don't think we have the tools to make these ourselves.
I have the "sample pack" of matala on the way, will post results on my OTP-3000.
Has anyone tried a stainless wire wheel like what you find on a buffing wheel? I know that they usually have copper centers, but I am sure finding one without is doable... Looks about as dense as the wheel klaus posted with similar sized wires, though the shapes sure aren't as cool.
Has anyone tried a stainless wire wheel like what you find on a buffing wheel? I know that they usually have copper centers, but I am sure finding one without is doable... Looks about as dense as the wheel klaus posted with similar sized wires, though the shapes sure aren't as cool
.
I will try half inch hose on there, But there will be no way of testing the scfh to see for sure what it is.
Youre right, The hose may be a limiting factor as it almost sounds like its gasping for air, and the 3/8ths hose almost swings like a fire hose let lose.
I'll also see if i can get a ballvalve on as well so i can try to reduce flow a titch, and get more air. I dunno about this as i tried some reducer fittings on the intake last night and it reduced flow and air as well. This is one pump you dont want to stick you hand over the intake, It will leave a hicky from hell.
This is my best pump that i have mesh modded, The others had gotten too loud, The OR 3500 sounded like a rockett.
Youre right, The hose may be a limiting factor as it almost sounds like its gasping for air, and the 3/8ths hose almost swings like a fire hose let lose.
I'll also see if i can get a ballvalve on as well so i can try to reduce flow a titch, and get more air. I dunno about this as i tried some reducer fittings on the intake last night and it reduced flow and air as well. This is one pump you dont want to stick you hand over the intake, It will leave a hicky from hell.
This is my best pump that i have mesh modded, The others had gotten too loud, The OR 3500 sounded like a rockett.
Well i tried some 3/4 hose, That was too big because it cavitated the pump. I am off to the hardware store to get some half inch hose. What was promising is that when i finaggled the 3/4 hose around while the pump was running i was able to pull the air meter to full till at 100 scfh! It pulled it like it was nothing.
It was not more than a second or 2 because i had to hold one end to the air meter and hold on to the hose to the pump.
It may have been the combo of blocking off the right amt of water and having the hose big enough to not restrict it.
Gives me something to shoot for and know what i can expect.
I still won't know if i can get close to klaus's numbers as i only can read up to 100 scfh or almost 2900 lph
It was not more than a second or 2 because i had to hold one end to the air meter and hold on to the hose to the pump.
It may have been the combo of blocking off the right amt of water and having the hose big enough to not restrict it.
Gives me something to shoot for and know what i can expect.
I still won't know if i can get close to klaus's numbers as i only can read up to 100 scfh or almost 2900 lph
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