Abyzz A200 pump and Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon 3 230W side by side

[slief]

question on the RD3 for you: I'm all into saving space and fittings and such and am seriously considering moving to the RD3. The connectors on the outlets - are they just 1/2 of a union? If I found the right size union to fit those threads - then I could replace the insert part of the union with a threaded fitting - or just go straight to a true union ball valve.

You can't see it too well in this picture - but the outer threads on my wavelines perfectly fit the spears 1.5" true union ball valve's threads. Then on the other end I have a 1.5" close nipple going into the 1.5" threaded bulkhead. That's what I'd be looking for out of the RD3

Since the RD3's already have a union on them, why not just use a ball valve between the pump and the sump instead of the union ball valve. Yea, you might be adding an extra half inch or so (maybe more, but maybe not. The other thing to consider though is the length of the RD3. They are relatively big pumps and may be longer than the pumps you would be replacing. Especially if you use a slip bulkhead and a slip valve. Then add your union on the return side.

That said, it's entirely possible that you could match a union up to the threaded connections on the RD3 but every union manufacturer seems to have a different thread spacing and pitch which could make it challenging.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

I like the plug idea, have to remember it.

 

[Ted_C]

yea - these are great ideas. Never thought of the plug either.

Regarding ball valves instead of true unions - that is certainly an option to save space. My first goal in any system I build is to use threaded fittings where I can (longer runs - I dont mind gluing). The RD3 has what looks like 1/2 of a union - so I'd be looking to replace the internal socket connection with an internal threaded connection. I never ever glue fittings into the proprietary pump parts (inlet / outlet) - that has to be 100% threaded fittings.

That is part of why I shy away from the abyzz. 40 and 50 mm connections that appear to require glued metric to British adapters. I wouldn't use fernco's for these types of connections in a saltwater environment.

 

[slief]

yea - these are great ideas. Never thought of the plug either.

Regarding ball valves instead of true unions - that is certainly an option to save space. My first goal in any system I build is to use threaded fittings where I can (longer runs - I dont mind gluing). The RD3 has what looks like 1/2 of a union - so I'd be looking to replace the internal socket connection with an internal threaded connection. I never ever glue fittings into the proprietary pump parts (inlet / outlet) - that has to be 100% threaded fittings.

That is part of why I shy away from the abyzz. 40 and 50 mm connections that appear to require glued metric to British adapters. I wouldn't use fernco's for these types of connections in a saltwater environment.

Those slip bushing connections on the RD3 are sold separately if you needed spares and they are made by VDL in Europe. Not exactly proprietary and the glued fitting insures no leaks. It's also a cleaner and shorter fitting where space is a concern. You could always get SCH80 pipe nipples like the one in the image below and cut it. Then glue the pipe side into the union bushing and have a threaded male end.

 

[marinelife]

question on the RD3 for you: I'm all into saving space and fittings and such and am seriously considering moving to the RD3. The connectors on the outlets - are they just 1/2 of a union? If I found the right size union to fit those threads - then I could replace the insert part of the union with a threaded fitting - or just go straight to a true union ball valve.

You can't see it too well in this picture - but the outer threads on my wavelines perfectly fit the spears 1.5" true union ball valve's threads. Then on the other end I have a 1.5" close nipple going into the 1.5" threaded bulkhead. That's what I'd be looking for out of the RD3

To me, the Abyzz is about the same size as my waveline so it may be the better option for you.

I do agree with a lot of the above. You could change things to make an RD3 work. The plug idea would do the trick. I just did this to fix some of my pipes.

 

[marinelife]

yea - these are great ideas. Never thought of the plug either.

Regarding ball valves instead of true unions - that is certainly an option to save space. My first goal in any system I build is to use threaded fittings where I can (longer runs - I dont mind gluing). The RD3 has what looks like 1/2 of a union - so I'd be looking to replace the internal socket connection with an internal threaded connection. I never ever glue fittings into the proprietary pump parts (inlet / outlet) - that has to be 100% threaded fittings.

That is part of why I shy away from the abyzz. 40 and 50 mm connections that appear to require glued metric to British adapters. I wouldn't use fernco's for these types of connections in a saltwater environment.

The abyzz comes with 2 ring adapters to make it work. You just glue them to the metric connections then they are 1.5" and 2"

 

[marinelife]

So far the tank temp has gone up to 80 Degrees from 76 with the Red Dragon running at 100%

I have set the controller to run at 160Watt for most of the day and then jump to 230W a few hours a day. I wish the controller would let me do speed adjustments more than once a day like the Abyzz controller does.

I do think I will need to change something on the output, right now its T'd to 2" bulks. The flow does not push far out. I am going to try and drop them down to 1" or so maybe. What ever I do I have to make sure I can keep the snails and stuff out of the pipes.

 

[slief]

So far the tank temp has gone up to 80 Degrees from 76 with the Red Dragon running at 100%

I have set the controller to run at 160Watt for most of the day and then jump to 230W a few hours a day. I wish the controller would let me do speed adjustments more than once a day like the Abyzz controller does.

I do think I will need to change something on the output, right now its T'd to 2" bulks. The flow does not push far out. I am going to try and drop them down to 1" or so maybe. What ever I do I have to make sure I can keep the snails and stuff out of the pipes.

Do you still have the A200 running? If so, I’d be curious what happens to the temps with the A200 off. The RD3 dissipates most of the heat at the controller but there is still some heat transfer. When I switched from a pair of Reeflo Super Dart Golds to a pair of RD3 230’s, my temps dropped 2 degrees in my system which was 600 gallons at the time. Obviously that is a larger volume than yours but that is with two RD3’s. One running at 150 watts for my return and the other at 170 watts during the day. Mine are running externally. I assume yours are as well? We have a couple customers who switched from Abyzz and saw a temp drop so it has me a bit curious. This could be because they didn’t need to run their 230’s at as high a power setting as the Abyzz so it was less wattage over all. They also didn’t require high head pressure so that made a difference in terms of the power settings they need from the Abyzz vs the RD3 for flow.

Also, if the controller is under the cabinet where your sump is located, make sure it’s well ventilated because the controller may be warming up the cabinet which will contribute to your tank temp increase due to the increase in ambient air temps.

If you reduce your pair of 2” outputs to a pair of 1” fed by the 2” line, that will increase the velocity of water out of the outputs. If the bulkheads are 2” threaded ones, you could get a 2” male thread to female slip, heat it and put it in a vice and clamp the end to make a nozzle. That would also increase velocity without reducing it. You should ditch the T and replace it with a wye. They will reduce friction losses and improve flow.

This is a 2” x 1” PVC WYE that is a manifold style which would be ideal.
https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?...ifold-Wyes&p_id=672-8000-1&xm=on&ppinc=detail

This is a 2” x 2” PVC WYE that is also a manifold style.
https://www.getpoolparts.com/produc...MIscCzx9ns1wIVT2x-Ch3dnANvEAQYBCABEgJb_PD_BwE

This is a 1.5” x 1” WYE which would also work if you reduce it from 2” to 1.5” closer to the to top of the tank.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTG668/ref=asc_df_B004VTG6685289109/

And a 2” x 2” 120* WYE.
http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/wate...MIscCzx9ns1wIVT2x-Ch3dnANvEAQYBiABEgK5GfD_BwE

If you have a controller like an Apex, I would take advantage of 0-10v Control. It will allow you to ran a wider range of flow through the RD3 with virtually unlimited changes in flow. As for the snails, I don’t think you will need to worry about them getting into the output lines if the pump is running.

 

[marinelife]

I will be testing and see if either pump is the issue. I am going to leave them off one at a time. If may not be either pump not sure. I am testing things.

Both pumps are on a shelf beside the tank with plenty of air. Space is limited for plumbing so not sure I can fit a WYE in the loop.

No apex at this time.

 

[Klaus Jansen]

Comparsion chinese DC Pump 200 Watt vs. RD3 Speedy 230 Watt ... ( right Picture = Speedy)

In the summer is heattransfer a important Point ....

best regards ...Klaus

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Not as big a tank or pump but I have been battling temps with an internal pump for over a year.
The original Waveline's ran so cool I needed a heater to maintain anything over 76 degrees. Well, then 2 pumps died.
Nothing I tried AC or DC ran under 80 degrees, some over that.
I now run a RD Speedy 3 80 Watt @ 72 Watts. Temps are now right around 77-78 degrees.
I'm a "Happy Camper" again.

 

[marinelife]

I have been testing both pumps to see if one is causing the tank temp to go up. Right now I am feeling like it is the room temperature that is causing the issue. I did show a little temperature rise with the RD3 running and the A200 off but I want to blame our Ohio weather. I think the tank is getting warmer not from the pumps but the room temp. I think it is just a coincidence that the temp jumped with the RD3. Right now with my AC running the tank is holding steady at 78.1, the RD3 is at 230W and the A200 is variable. Ohio is getting warm days and cold nights right now so I will monitor the temp and pumps to see what happens.

Also Scott from Royal Exclusiv is kicking butt on support!!

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Scott is a great guy to know, passionate & honest.
Temps will rise because of lighting also, even with LED.

 

[marinelife]

Tank temp has not been an issue in years since going LED, I thought it was the pump(s) because that is when the issue started. I do feel now that it is the room getting warmer because the AC was off because our mornings are cold.
I will be watching the temp closely.

 

[marinelife]

Well, I have done what no one else has I guess. The driver for the A200 is dead. Support has been contacted and they responded but I have to wait until tomorrow to find out what will happen. I have not even had it a month and it's already having issues. I guess they have to contact Germany to find out how they want to handle my issue. Very disappointed to have to wait but at least this is not my return pump.

 

[Dmorty217]

So let me get this straight, the AbyzzUSA warehouse in Louisiana outsourced their customer service to Coralvue which has to contact Germany any time there is a problem with a pump? Sounds highly inefficient and very disappointing for a pump that costs that much. Scott would of had a replacement on the way already, and he wouldn't have to contact Germany about it.

 

[gcarroll]

Well, I have done what no one else has I guess. The driver for the A200 is dead. Support has been contacted and they responded but I have to wait until tomorrow to find out what will happen. I have not even had it a month and it's already having issues. I guess they have to contact Germany to find out how they want to handle my issue. Very disappointed to have to wait but at least this is not my return pump.

how did you mount the controller? Horizontal or vertical? Just curious.

 

[slief]

how did you mount the controller? Horizontal or vertical? Just curious.

Posted on the first page.
<img src="http://saltgeek.com/375/images/2017/pumps/IMG_0216.jpg" alt="Abyzz Controller" />
Abyzz Controller

 

[gcarroll]

Looks to have been mounted properly so no excuse for that.

 

[marinelife]

Update:
They are sending me another controller/driver. They sent me a return label and once they see FedEx has the old unit from me they will send the new one. So it should be sent to me tomorrow with delivery Friday I hope. I was at FedEx within 20 minutes of getting the label. If they would have responded early in the day they may have been able to send it out today but it was too late by the time I got the label and got the Fedex. At least it's checked in at FedEx so they can send it out tomorrow.