DIY Red Dragon Pumps, gathering ideas.

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Here's a vendor that sells laguna, The smallest they have is the 3000. I believe hahn has stated that you could get smaller than that in aquaclear's name. (Same pumps) Not sure on that though and or thier model #'s

http://www.azponds.com/subpumps.htm
 
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Do we have any (scfh/lph) numbers for the smaller pumps?

Is the Pt-324 (400gph @ 19w) usable? Is it the same as an aquaclear 401?

All this tweaking of the bigger pumps is awesome, but not all that useful for most of us.
 
The PT-324 is really Hagens old Hi-Spec 1000-4000 powerhead line. I would NOT suggest it for modding (I have the 3000 and 4000 and can post pics if you want to show you why its not a good pump to mod)... its a different line all together with a different impeller setup/assembly. I would stear you to the 802 instead... thats in my 'pimp my AC802' thread... up to 18scfh, but you have to make a custom volute out of a 2" PVC coupling... easy enough to do, and even easier to mesh mod the impeller really (fixed/open end shaft).

If you want a smaller pump, I would do the Hagen 901/110 (same as Laguna 900 I believe). This pump should do about the same as an eheim needlewheel in all respects unless you do the custom volute... then more.
 
Hahn, I guess my real question, is how do I tell whether its a usable pump just looking at the model number?

Is it the Powerjet, powerjet free flow, maxflow, what are we talking here?
 
You cant just by the model number really, you have to check the equipment manuals at hagen.com and make sure its part of the same line as the pumps we are using here (Max-Flo/PowerJet 900+). You know, there is a 600 model... its like a 900 but only 600gph. Thats alot smaller...
 
Hrm... I have a 5000 on the way along with a max-flo impeller to make it reef safe, but am thinking this is going to be waaaaay too much for my 8" x 24" modified Reef Octopus NW-200.

Should I have gone with the max-flo 900 instead as my gut initially told me? Hahn made me do it by posting how much bigger the volute on the 5000 is with only a few more watts. I know I'll have a more efficient pump scfh/watt wise... but is this thing going to make my skimmer explode or something?
 
kroe,
I believe that the 5000 will be able to be modified with a smaller impeller, larger volute to get a pump with less watts and less air and water for a smaller skimmer, at least I hope so. So I wouldnt count the 5000 out yet.
 
It's on the way, so I am absolutely going to try it... just nervous that I am going to end up with a 100 scfh @ 85w pump, which for what I am using it for will be less useful than my 45 scfh @ 65w OTP-3000.

BTW... I got my matala samples today, and my initial impression is mixed. Two of the four have no hope - way too big. The other two - a flexible very dense, fine black mesh looks like it might work IF both sides of the sheet are left on. If you cut it in half it will be super stringy and will likely fall apart. You'd have to zip-tie it very tightly to squeeze it into most volutes leaving both sides on. I would try it, but don't want to waste it on my OTP-3000 when the laguna is on the way. Another of the samples is dense, stiff blue plastic. Much thicker strands than the PF4, but might work well if you squeeze it together tightly.

Anyone with an air meter and kill-a-watt try this stuff yet?
 
Thanks well i got the impeller in, and tried a quick test. Its not impressing me so far. I am only getting 40 scfh out of it.
I am going to reduce the air line size and see what that does if anything, But i am using half inch right now.
 
You may need a larger shroud for the 5000 because the stock shroud i think is a lot smaller than the one on your larger pump. Tell me if I am wrong.
 
also, 40 scfh is aournd that output of a bubble master pump which does not use anything close to 1/2 inch tubing. I am a novice in these mods but it is possible that the air tubig you just used is large enough to perhaps have a negative effect. Please update when you get the kill o watt becuase if it is 40 scfh but less than 30 watts, that would be perfect for smaller size skimmers.
 
Has anyone tried making a more true pump impeller with metala or one of the pf materials. by making a metala or pf "doughnut" and sandwiching it between two acrylic disks you could turn the metala into the "vanes" of the impeller and actually pull the air/water into the eye of the impeller and through the material. would this cause better shredding of the air as you would be doing more than just using the outer faces of the material to break the air up? could this be more efficient and pull more water and air
closed_impeller.gif
 
The shroud is plenty big, Its only a titch smaller than the 2905, Butthe 2905 spins 2 times as fast.
I think the airline is too big and not getting the correct jet like the 2905 creates.
I'll do some more work tonight, and report.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9909366#post9909366 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dudedudedude
You may need a larger shroud for the 5000 because the stock shroud i think is a lot smaller than the one on your larger pump. Tell me if I am wrong.
 
Here is the chalange for electricians looking at this thread. Would it be possible to make a external circiut that a pump like the 5000 could plug into in which you could increase the AC frequency to get a pump with a speed more like the 2905?
 
I know variable frequency controllers exist for industry, and they are several hundred used. However, I have seen some simple dc to ac converter schematics in which according to a friend the frequence could be changed by changeing two resisters and capacitors. Thus you could convert to DC, then run the DC to AC converter circiut. The adjustments to this circiut are just beyond my level of electroncis understanding. I guess what I am saying is that the industrial variable frequency converters would be overkill, but a simpler one could be made.
 
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