DIY Stands Template and Calculator

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14677463#post14677463 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by daveml
Great thread - some great stands out there...

Is the glue an absolute necessity or can i just use the screws? Any input?

Completely optional-I used it on my stand as simply one more measure to make sure it was solid and to hopefully deter any possible warping of finish boards later...
 
other than leaving out the glue i followed the plans. The thing is a tank compared to the to the prefabricated stands you see in the store. I think the biggest thing is making sure it's square.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14677740#post14677740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by daveml
other than leaving out the glue i followed the plans. The thing is a tank compared to the to the prefabricated stands you see in the store. I think the biggest thing is making sure it's square.

Over built and I sleep well at night-my old prefab stand made me nervous.
 
Glue might be overkill, but it is cheap insurance. Remember in wood working, screws usually only hold things together until the glue dries. Glue is much stronger than screws/nails. For me stronger = better.
 
Hi guys, just a quick question for you wood workers.

I'm upgrading to a 90g from my 55g and I'm planning on starting my stand build within the next couple days. I'm going to be using my 55g as a fuge so I need to make sure there is enough room on both sides of the tank. Preferably something like 4" on each side. So, an additional length of 8" on the tank.

If I use (I don't know the word but if I were to guess I'd call them cross braces) cross braces like pictured below, can I get away with the extra 8" and having the 90g tank not exactly sitting on all 4 corners?

building%20aquarium%20stand%20022.jpg


Image from josh_tn
 
I'd recommend building as plan, but put 4 extra legs under each cross brace where the actual tank will sit. The outside corners will then in effect not carry the load and you do not have to worry about transferring the load across to them.

I am sure a picture would better show this, but I am not very good at doing this... I am sure some one can assist if needed.
 
Can anyone tell me what to use to span 90".

I am currently in the process of building a 330 tank inwall. The dimensions are 90 X 30 X 28 tall. Would a 2 x 10 work to span the distance or am I going to have to install center bracing?

Thanks
Cam
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14680764#post14680764 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loveless
Can anyone tell me what to use to span 90".

I'd definitely leave that one for RocketEngineer.
 
loveless,

To keep the deflection less then 1/8th of an inch, you would need to go all the way up to a 2X12 for that long an unsupported span. However, if you placed a leg in the center of the 90" span, you could get away with only a 2X6 for a top frame. Depending on the sump you intend to use, it is possible to put supports on either side of a center sump but the spacing between the legs will determine the size of the lumber for the top frame. A few more details will help better define what you will need.

RocketEngineer
 
Perfect, thanks for the reply. I think that im not going to have a sump under the tank just all the plumbing for my closed loop.

One other question regarding the stand. Does the middle of the tank need to be supported at all? I noticed a center brace on the tops does this come into play for supporting the center of the tank?

Loveless
 
How long does it take you guys to build up the frame?

I'm thinking about framing the stand and just making it pretty as I get more money/time. I don't mind it being ugly for a couple of weeks but I do mind a 90g tank sitting in my kitchen on the floor! (no garage :()

Also one quick question. I want to build this stand about 4' tall. Do I need to build anymore reinforcements for such a tall stand?

Sorry, I lied. One more question again-- Are there any canopy templates?
 
This is an easy weekend project... probably doable even in one day. Depends of course on tools and skill level. ( ... and how many trips to the hardware store to pickup items you forgot to buy :) ) Picking out good wood itself took me a couple of hours.

I did mine over the course of a few days working 1-2 as that was what my schedule permitted. If you are not going to skin it at this point and make it look fancy, the most time consuming task will be painting the base frame.
 
And no one uses nails? Only wood screws?

I remember when I was younger and I saw my dad building things he always used nails. Is there a big difference?

Edit: I love Kevin Smith.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14687975#post14687975 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loveless
Perfect, thanks for the reply. I think that im not going to have a sump under the tank just all the plumbing for my closed loop.

One other question regarding the stand. Does the middle of the tank need to be supported at all? I noticed a center brace on the tops does this come into play for supporting the center of the tank?

Loveless

i think the middle supports are more like the center supports on a tank....to keep the front & rear from bowing out

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14688629#post14688629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoRPS
And no one uses nails? Only wood screws?

I remember when I was younger and I saw my dad building things he always used nails. Is there a big difference?

Edit: I love Kevin Smith.

i used finishing nails to attach my skin to the frame & in a few pieces in the canopy where it was imposible to hold something in w/out a screw visable on the outside
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14688629#post14688629 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CoRPS
And no one uses nails? Only wood screws?

I remember when I was younger and I saw my dad building things he always used nails. Is there a big difference?

Edit: I love Kevin Smith.

I believe screws vs nails is a preference for the rough framing. When you use glue, they really do little anyhow. For finish work, finish nails are a must for aesthetics of course.

... and yes, Kevin Smith rocks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14687975#post14687975 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loveless
One other question regarding the stand. Does the middle of the tank need to be supported at all? I noticed a center brace on the tops does this come into play for supporting the center of the tank?

Loveless

I agree with james3370... middle bracing is less for support and more to keep the frame from bowing.
 
I'm nervous about making my frame 100% level. Every time I've ever built something (granted they were never to hold weight) they've never been completely level.

Any tips/tricks for me when it comes to leveling something correctly? Is it all just really making sure your cuts are all squared?

Edit: Me and my brother always used wood dust and wood glue to make wood filler. However we've never made anything and finished the wood, it's always been bare. Using the wood dust and glue as filler, will it sand down and create a good surface to stain? or will it look weird?
 
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Making sure each piece is cut exactly to spec, as well as using a framing square for your 90's. Clamps will also help to hold in place while screwing and until the glue dries.

For the holes, I would use stainable wood filler if you plan on staining.

Another important factor is straight lumber.
 
I've got clamps (only two though). I don't have a square or a level. I was looking online at lowes, can I get by with the cheap squares and levels? I don't see much of a difference besides the cost!

When you say straight lumber, is it something that even a noob woodworker will notice visually? You're making me nervous! I was so confident until about 5 minutes ago! :)

This stand will be for a 90g and just for piece of mind, 2x4 will do it no problem right? I was thinking about using 4x4 for the screw strips.

What should I expect to pay for the lumber just for the frame? I'm thinking < $50

Edit: Also looking online, I'm noticing a bunch of different kinds of wood to use. Is there anything in particular I should aim for? For the frame I guess it doesn't really matter what it looks like, I just want to be sure it's decently priced and strong. However, for the plywood I want it to be really smooth and I want it to look great stained. Maybe someone can show me some different examples so I know what to look forward to?
Edit2: I really like the look of bamboo.
 
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Actually guys, I need some help.

I'm planning on using my 55g as the fuge, but with standard measurements the stand will not fit under the tank because of the tanks width. However, if I make the stand a couple inches wider the display will not be sitting ontop of the upper rails the way it should and instead would be putting it's weight on the center brace.

If I use a plywood top will it distribute the weight the way it should or will I have problems? Should I ditch the idea of a 55g fuge and just use like a 29G?
 
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