DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[bishop40k]

Amon Ra, from what I've seen, it'd be best to throw a center brace on an 8" span. I understand the wanting of no center support, but you'd still have over 40" opening on each side.

Are you the same Amon Ra from bp.net?

 

[TheFishMan65]

Doubling a 2x8 might not be enough. If all the weight was on the front and back there would be more than 1/8 inch of sag. I think you better plan on a center leg. What kind of tank and what are all the dimensions?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Ok so I've read most of this thread over the past couple days and I have a quick question. If I am building a stand for a 300g tank which is 96" long can I get away without a front center brace? I was thinking doubled 2x8s for the top ring but still didn't know if that would be enough to avoid excessive deflection.

8' is just too long for a stand using 2X8s for a 300g tank. If you want to go with a center brace, you can go down to 2X6 or if you want to span the full 8' unsupported, you can go up to doubled up 2X10s. It just happens to be that you have split the two options with a 2X8.

HTH,
RocketEngineer

 

[Donw]

I would not even do it with 2x10's once you get timber that large the seasonal movement is going to be much more than you will want. The edge grains is going the wrong direction on wide boards to make for a dimensional stable beam.

If your set on having no center brace a plywood gluelam or even a 2x4 gluelam would be more dimensional stable.

Don

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

Ok I can do a center brace just was hopin to get away without it. Not a big deal just have to plan my sump accordingly.

And yes this is Amon Ra from BP.net! Hi there!

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

Oh it's a plywood tank and dimensions are 96" x 24" x 30" tall

 

[TheFishMan65]

I wonder if you could do four 2x10 or six 2x8 spaced equally under the tank. You wouldn't be able to get in the sides, but it might open up the front. RE is this an option with a plywood tank.

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

I wonder if you could do four 2x10 or six 2x8 spaced equally under the tank. You wouldn't be able to get in the sides, but it might open up the front. RE is this an option with a plywood tank.

I could that. Side access isn't important to me. So if I were to build it in that manner would it provide enough support?

 

[TheFishMan65]

I would think a plywood tank is more like acrylic so the load is distributed all over. So either of those loading designs would be less than 1/8 inch of deflection. In fact you could probably use three 2x10 or five 2x8, but I played it a little on the safe side.

Let's see what someone more familiar with plywood tanks has to say.

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

Well that was my thought also. The plywood should flex a little and allow for more even weight distribution. But I agree we will see what the others have to say.

 

[Rhodophyta]

Oh it's a plywood tank and dimensions are 96" x 24" x 30" tall

Full bottom support under a plywood tank is important. I had a frame of 2 by 12's and 2 by 8's with a half inch plywood sandwich in between the two and then 2 by 4's going the short way on 1.5" centers. You should be able to see light between each 2 by 4 so that the bottom can "breathe". That was a 520 gallon plywood tank. Replace the plywood along the front with 1/4" steel plate and it should not need a center leg. You have to ask yourself if eliminating the center leg is worth about an extra $100 for the steel.

 

[small triggers]

I used this plan to build my 125 stand... though I altered it a bit..
I used 4x4's in the corner's and one in the center to help... works great!

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

Ok I'm lost on how you had your stand set up. We're the 2x8s and 2x12s laying flat? And 2x4s on edge? Sorry ya lost me lol

 

[TheFishMan65]

I think he had a front and back beam made from:
1 - 2x12
1 - 2x8
1 - piece of plywood.

He then ran 2x4 front to back with very little space between them.

So based on what he said I would say six 2 x 8s. With 3 inches between them. If my math is correct that should be 24 inches (6 * 1.5 + 5 * 3).

Rhodophyta, is 3 inches too far apart?

 

[reefermad619]

Your not going to find any construction lumber that is actually straight 2x4 or 2x8. If you can rip a sheet of plywood straight just glue up a couple rip cuts. It will be stronger than your 2x and actually be as straight as your cut.

Don

I was able to find some straight 2x8s at HD. Took about 20 min of digging, but it was worth it. Thanks for the help and suggestions Don/Floyd

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

I think he had a front and back beam made from:
1 - 2x12
1 - 2x8
1 - piece of plywood.

He then ran 2x4 front to back with very little space between them.

So based on what he said I would say six 2 x 8s. With 3 inches between them. If my math is correct that should be 24 inches (6 * 1.5 + 5 * 3).

Rhodophyta, is 3 inches too far apart?

So if that's how it was done why not just use 2-2x12s with the plywood in between? Also, does the plywood layer really add that much strength?

 

[Donw]

So if that's how it was done why not just use 2-2x12s with the plywood in between? Also, does the plywood layer really add that much strength?

The ply adds alot of strength to the 2x12 if its laminated with glue. If not laminated it adds just the strength of the plywood itself which will add rigidity to the stand. The problem with gluing is there is to much timber in a 2x12 and its going to expand and contract. If the plywood is glued and it is trying to hold back the expansion or contraction the 2x12 can split or break. The expansion is not going to be held back by any woodworking glue. The wood you buy at the home center is not completely dry and will move quite abit after you get it in a heated house. Its ok to laminate ply to a 2x4 or 1x4 but not a good idea with a 2x12.

Don

 

[Jfannin]

Im about to do a 120g 48x24x24 and was going to use a 40 breeder. I took and actully drew to scale on paper and the 40 breeder will be snug. Kinda sucks, I was hoping to have enough room to build a small compartment for all my electronics. But it's not looking posable.

The biggest thing I hate about my current setup is all the wires behind the tank and on the side of the stand.

Anyone have a 120 with 40 sump? Have any room in the stand leftover?

A 20g sump/refugi probably wouldn't be big enough for a 120g full sps would it?

 

[Rhodophyta]

I think he had a front and back beam made from:
1 - 2x12
1 - 2x8
1 - piece of plywood.

He then ran 2x4 front to back with very little space between them.

So based on what he said I would say six 2 x 8s. With 3 inches between them. If my math is correct that should be 24 inches (6 * 1.5 + 5 * 3).

Rhodophyta, is 3 inches too far apart?

This is a shallow tank compared to the one I had that was 42" inches tall. There were a lot of 48" tall tanks around here and some of them had leaks. I've seen 24" tall plywood tanks that have been set up on stands with open areas. They started deforming right at the gap. I can't imagine a gap narrower than the thickness of the plywood hurting, so 2" centers would be fine if my untested theory holds up. i was going to try it on that 520, but changed my mind at the last minute after mulling that the water and rock would weigh well over 5000 pounds. The boxing I made is vaguely reminiscent of wood residential construction with a box board enclosing the ends of the floor joists, which rest on another board fixed to the foundation wall. But in my case, the flat board was replaced by a vertical 2 by 8.

 

[Amon Ra Reptile]

The boxing I made is vaguely reminiscent of wood residential construction with a box board enclosing the ends of the floor joists, which rest on another board fixed to the foundation wall. But in my case, the flat board was replaced by a vertical 2 by 8.

I don't know why I can't get this but I just can't picture how you have this built.