DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Dseg]

A stand for a 150 gallon, 60" long by 30" deep. The tank has no bottom rim, so it is just a pane of glass so I will need ply wood/styrofoam on top of the stand. I was going to use 2x6 on the top frame but with 2x6 somewhat off-centered so the gap would only be able 50" or so with no center brace. Are 2x6 safe for the top frame on a tank this big for only a 50" gap?

Also, since I have to use plywood (3/4"?) what is the best way to add structure under the plywood besides the blue peice? Put multiple blue peices the same way or put them long ways?

 

[nickbuol]

Quick question. I used the design here to build a 48x24 stand for my 120 gallon.

Anyway, is there any need for cross bracing the bottom? Let's me explain better.
Here is one of the original diagrams...

Look at the dark blue. There is one on each end on the bottom, and a single cross brace on the top.

Do you think that it is neccessary to have additional cross braces on the bottom?

Here is why I ask. I built the stand, and it is rock solid. Pretty straight wood, glue/screw construction, and so on. I had some extra 2x4 laying around, so I added 3 cross braces to the bottom. Seemed logical. Then I topped that with plywood for the sump to rest on.

I put the tank on it, and start filling it so that I can keep the live sand and live rock that I bought with the tank, well, alive.

Again, all is good. UNTIL....

I get my Reef Octopus skimmer and go to put it in my sump and there isn't enough room to get the waste cup out without turning it sideways and squeezing it out between the sump and the pink/purple vertical supports on the front. Well, that does no good if it is full of liquid crap.

So I was thinking about taking out the 3 cross braces that I added, and putting the plywood on the floor which would basically lower the sump 3.5" and allow for the waste cup to be emptied.

The sump isn't hooked up yet as I've been working on the plumbing, so now is the time to make adjustments if possible.

So, can I get by without any addition cross braces on the bottom? Putting the 2x4's "flat" would gain me 2", but I think that I need a good 3" of the 3.5" gain from removing them.

Thoughts?

 

[RocketEngineer]

A stand for a 150 gallon, 60" long by 30" deep. The tank has no bottom rim, so it is just a pane of glass so I will need ply wood/styrofoam on top of the stand. I was going to use 2x6 on the top frame but with 2x6 somewhat off-centered so the gap would only be able 50" or so with no center brace. Are 2x6 safe for the top frame on a tank this big for only a 50" gap?

Also, since I have to use plywood (3/4"?) what is the best way to add structure under the plywood besides the blue peice? Put multiple blue peices the same way or put them long ways?

Dseg, If you want a 50" gap, reposition the pink and green boards so that the pink board on the end is under both the red and yellow. If you build the stand 60", have two boards narrow ways under the red board, and two boards wide ways under the red board, you get a 50" gap (60-1.5*2-3.5*2=50). This will keep the top fully supported while still giving you the opening you're after. Supporting the top is best done with parallel blue pieces. Shorter boards are stiffer than long ones.

Quick question. I used the design here to build a 48x24 stand for my 120 gallon.

Anyway, is there any need for cross bracing the bottom? Let's me explain better.

Look at the dark blue. There is one on each end on the bottom, and a single cross brace on the top.

Do you think that it is neccessary to have additional cross braces on the bottom?

Here is why I ask. I built the stand, and it is rock solid. Pretty straight wood, glue/screw construction, and so on. I had some extra 2x4 laying around, so I added 3 cross braces to the bottom. Seemed logical. Then I topped that with plywood for the sump to rest on.

I put the tank on it, and start filling it so that I can keep the live sand and live rock that I bought with the tank, well, alive.

Again, all is good. UNTIL....

I get my Reef Octopus skimmer and go to put it in my sump and there isn't enough room to get the waste cup out without turning it sideways and squeezing it out between the sump and the pink/purple vertical supports on the front. Well, that does no good if it is full of liquid crap.

So I was thinking about taking out the 3 cross braces that I added, and putting the plywood on the floor which would basically lower the sump 3.5" and allow for the waste cup to be emptied.

The sump isn't hooked up yet as I've been working on the plumbing, so now is the time to make adjustments if possible.

So, can I get by without any addition cross braces on the bottom? Putting the 2x4's "flat" would gain me 2", but I think that I need a good 3" of the 3.5" gain from removing them.

Thoughts?

Not having the blue pieces in the bottom won't hurt anything. The main purpose for the bottom frame is just to keep the legs from twisting out from under the top frame. Putting the sump between the orange rails is common for those with space issues.

RocketEngineer

 

[Dseg]

Dseg, If you want a 50" gap, reposition the pink and green boards so that the pink board on the end is under both the red and yellow. If you build the stand 60", have two boards narrow ways under the red board, and two boards wide ways under the red board, you get a 50" gap (60-1.5*2-3.5*2=50). This will keep the top fully supported while still giving you the opening you're after. Supporting the top is best done with parallel blue pieces. Shorter boards are stiffer than long ones.

RocketEngineer

Thanks for reply RE, I don't understand what you mean below, do you have an example?
"If you build the stand 60", have two boards narrow ways under the red board, and two boards wide ways under the red board, you get a 50" gap (60-1.5*2-3.5*2=50)."

Do you mean like this? But I won't have the center back brace.

And so if I want more support under the plywood on top (because I have a bottom glass pane) I should just make multiple blue boards, going the same way I have in the picture?

Do I also need to do any more support anywhere if I want to make the stand 40" high?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Dseg, That is exactly what I was describing for positioning the legs. Obviously the dimensions will change to match your size tank but the positioning is what you have depicted. I would have two or three blue boards supporting the top. With 2, you have 20" on center and with 3 you get 15" on center.

Going 40" from top to bottom isn't an issue, just keep in mind that the top plywood adds height. That should give you plenty of space for accessing the sump.

RocketEngineer

 

[C-Rad]

...Also, since I have to use plywood (3/4"?) what is the best way to add structure under the plywood

On a trimmed glass tank, with plastic trim around the bottom, the glass piece for the bottom is made thick enough that it only needs to be supported around its edges. Your 120 gallon tank is 48x24x24; what thickness glass do rimmed tanks with those dimensions use? If the glass bottom of your tank is the same thickness (or thicker), then it is also strong enough to be supported only around its edges. In that case, your tank wouldn't need a plywood top, or any cross members. I'm assuming that the glass bottom of a trimmed 48x24x24 is not tempered glass (which is stronger than regular glass).

So, if you can determine, for sure, that the bottom piece of a standard, trimmed, glass, 48x24x24 tank is:
1) Not tempered
2) Not thicker than the glass bottom of your tank

then you can save the expense, risk (see below), and hassle of putting a plywood top and cross braces on your tank.


The risk of a plywood top is that if the plywood has any small raised bits (isn't perfectly flat), or if a little piece of gravel is between the plywood and the glass bottom, you will get tremendous point pressure on the glass where it sits on top of that bump, that could break the glass bottom. If you are very careful to avoid any little hard things being on the glass or on the wood when you place the tank on it, then you'll have no problem, but one piece of stray gravel could be a disaster. (even if you don't use plywood, you still need to avoid gravel or bumps between the glass and the top rails of your stand, around the edge, for the same reason)

 

[Dseg]

On a trimmed glass tank, with plastic trim around the bottom, the glass piece for the bottom is made thick enough that it only needs to be supported around its edges. Your 120 gallon tank is 48x24x24; what thickness glass do rimmed tanks with those dimensions use? If the glass bottom of your tank is the same thickness (or thicker), then it is also strong enough to be supported only around its edges. In that case, your tank wouldn't need a plywood top, or any cross members. I'm assuming that the glass bottom of a trimmed 48x24x24 is not tempered glass (which is stronger than regular glass).

So, if you can determine, for sure, that the bottom piece of a standard, trimmed, glass, 48x24x24 tank is:
1) Not tempered
2) Not thicker than the glass bottom of your tank

then you can save the expense, risk (see below), and hassle of putting a plywood top and cross braces on your tank.


The risk of a plywood top is that if the plywood has any small raised bits (isn't perfectly flat), or if a little piece of gravel is between the plywood and the glass bottom, you will get tremendous point pressure on the glass where it sits on top of that bump, that could break the glass bottom. If you are very careful to avoid any little hard things being on the glass or on the wood when you place the tank on it, then you'll have no problem, but one piece of stray gravel could be a disaster. (even if you don't use plywood, you still need to avoid gravel or bumps between the glass and the top rails of your stand, around the edge, for the same reason)

My tank is 60x30x18. It has no rim and the bottom is just as thick as the sides. When you talk about gravel and bumps in the plywood - that is why we use styrofoam on top of the plywood.

 

[Dseg]

Dseg, If you want a 50" gap, reposition the pink and green boards so that the pink board on the end is under both the red and yellow. If you build the stand 60", have two boards narrow ways under the red board, and two boards wide ways under the red board, you get a 50" gap (60-1.5*2-3.5*2=50). This will keep the top fully supported while still giving you the opening you're after. Supporting the top is best done with parallel blue pieces. Shorter boards are stiffer than long ones.

RocketEngineer

Could I just use a 2x6? That was original plan, do I not them? Could I just use 2x4s for the legs? When would you need to upgarde to 2x6s?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Could I just use a 2x6? That was original plan, do I not them? Could I just use 2x4s for the legs? When would you need to upgarde to 2x6s?

For the legs, the honest answer is never. Given the size of the typical tanks hobbyists have and the small height of the leg, you are more likely to need more legs due to length than you are due to the legs buckling. Making the legs out of 2X6 is just adding extra cost and bulk to the stand that you don't need.

 

[dallasg]

Hi, @RocketEngineer i would like to build a stand for my 1200x800 x500high tank, stand if possible would like to have it 1000 high and have it 1000 wide. the tank will sit in the front and 200mm behind for plumbing etc

thanks

 

[jonjonwells]

I am getting ready to build a stand for my 300 Gallon Peninsula.
Tank dimensions... 78x29x36h

I am thinking 2x6 top supports and everything else 2x4.

Will this be enough with the bracing that I have?
What changes would you suggest?

 

[RocketEngineer]

Hi, @RocketEngineer i would like to build a stand for my 1200x800 x500high tank, stand if possible would like to have it 1000 high and have it 1000 wide. the tank will sit in the front and 200mm behind for plumbing etc

thanks

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20917389&postcount=2615

Exactly what you are describing.

I am getting ready to build a stand for my 300 Gallon Peninsula.
Tank dimensions... 78x29x36h

I am thinking 2x6 top supports and everything else 2x4.

Will this be enough with the bracing that I have?
What changes would you suggest?

From the image it looks like the left hand side is for plumbing runs. If you are going with a 2X6 top you only really need the one center leg under the tank itself. If the tank is glass you don't need to support the center boards as they keep the top frame from twisting. Supporting the end boards is sufficient for a glass tank. If it is acrylic, supporting the center isn't a bad idea but you may want to look at only using one board to support both the red and yellow pieces if space for a sump is an issue.

RocketEngineer

 

[dallasg]

thanks rocketengineer, its 12mm glass

 

[jonjonwells]

From the image it looks like the left hand side is for plumbing runs. If you are going with a 2X6 top you only really need the one center leg under the tank itself. If the tank is glass you don't need to support the center boards as they keep the top frame from twisting. Supporting the end boards is sufficient for a glass tank. If it is acrylic, supporting the center isn't a bad idea but you may want to look at only using one board to support both the red and yellow pieces if space for a sump is an issue.

RocketEngineer

You are correct that the left side is for the plumbing runs, although, they will not be under the stand, but in the basement.

It is an acrylic tank and will be have 3/4 ply on top.

Basically, I overbuilt it.... but for me that is good i guess.
Thanks for your response.

 

[Ciscokid]

75G Oceanic Reef Ready

75G Oceanic Reef Ready

I built this stand the other day and was wondering if I should add anything to it.

 

[kgross]

Ciscokid. yes I would highly suggest you add a tank to it. Some facing material would look nice as well. That stand should work great for you.

 

[Jeff000]

Here is the stand I just built.

Missing is the plywood top, the picture of it makes the rest hard to see.
It is perfectly level. It is hilti nailed to the concrete floor. Almost every leg is a slightly different length.
The front will have double 5/8 drywall, so there is a small lip at the glass.
The back will have a built in step, so will have a 2x4 running horizontal around the middle of the legs.
The legs are 36" tall.
The corner legs where the vertical 2x4 is only half covered has a 2x2 there now to keep contact with the plywood top.
The pump will be under the stand.
There will be a couple drawers installed too.

Aside from the 32x32x72 starfire tank, am I missing anything?

 

[Ciscokid]

Ciscokid. yes I would highly suggest you add a tank to it. Some facing material would look nice as well. That stand should work great for you.

Someone gave me a load of different crown moldings etc.. I haven't decided on a design for the facing yet. That reminds me, i need to get some doors!



Thanks for your words of encouragement.

 

[Dseg]

For the legs, the honest answer is never. Given the size of the typical tanks hobbyists have and the small height of the leg, you are more likely to need more legs due to length than you are due to the legs buckling. Making the legs out of 2X6 is just adding extra cost and bulk to the stand that you don't need.

Thanks.
Is a 2x6 enough for 52" gap with no center brace for a 140g? Or should I go 2x8?

 

[dallasg]

@RocketEngineer , so i decided i needed to upgrade my upgrade
2400x1000x600 water at 550 in 12mm glass fully braced, would the following stand hold it, the stand is 2800x1000 and 1000mm high, tank will sit centered and will be support by all the legs, there is a 150mm overhang on each side
top is 38mm x 152mm
legs are 38mm x 114mm
bottom is 38mm x 76mm
top will be 18mm shutterply, i will also clad it in 18mm shutterply