DIY Stands Template and Calculator

lip

lip

Hey everyone, im looking to upgrade and the plan is to have a 75 display with 40B sump. I just got the 40 from petco in their 1$ a gallon sale and not im thinking about building a stand using the guide up here. My question is does anyone have a 75 with a 40 in the stand and what dimensions did you use? Also does anyone have a stand with a lip in front of the tank with the tank not going all the way to the edge? I was wondering how this would look. Thanks

I am building a 40 gallon breeder and I have about a 2'' lip that covers the plastic frame, if you are going to keep the tank away from the edge you could put in a piece of wood between the lip and the tank kinda of like a picture frame with a mat. Words are harder than pictures in this thread.
 
getting started

getting started

I can't believe I read all 114 pages of this thread!!

But glad I did, as I have learned quite a bit from everyone here.....a special thanks to Rocketengineer for starting it!

Ok, now I'll be off to start my build for my 120 gallon 48x24x24 tank. I'll be using the framework as designed by Rocketengineer and will be skinning with Oak. I'm sooo excited to get started!

I have built several stands and the usual problem for me is wood warpage, so I have go to the lumber stores to get the wood cut to size and I ask for lumber that is resawed like they use for patio covers that is a higher quality lumber, I think I paid 25 dollars for all my lumber shy the plywood, and that was for my 120 build.
 
I need assistance BADLY in trying to design a corner stand for a 60"x24"x24" 150gallon tank.


Need HELP BADLY!!! :hmm2::fun5:
 
not lining up

not lining up

Here would be with the 55 and one 40. the papers are my 2x4's and hopefully you see my point. In order for my Dt to be in contact with the purple 2x4's I would only have it sitting on half. so if I do two 40's they take all 36" width of my Dt. or if i go with the 55 then the length is the same as my Dt...either way I don't sit Dt on all eight 2x4's. sorry typing on phone is not fun.

Build the stand so the 55 is sitting correctly on the stand, the 40 gallon will only have about 29 gallons in it, build the bottom shelf with more cross bars to help carry the load.
Or are you saying that the 40 will not fit the inside dimensions of the 55 gallon?
 
First of let me say this might be one of the best threads on this forum. Great job!

I'm in the process of gathering everything i need to start a Reef tank. I have decided that i want to get the Nuvo Micro 38 gallon tank. (24x19x19) I do not trust the stand that they sell with it, so i am looking into building my own. I have a few questions...

1. Is this Stand over kill for a tank this small?
2. Can i get away with 1"x4" wood or is the 2x4 recommended?
3. Would I need to put foam on the stand, and if so, does it go between the tank and the plywood on top of the stand or between the stand frame and the top plywood?
4. How do i make those cool color coded drawings??:spin2:
 
First of let me say this might be one of the best threads on this forum. Great job!

I'm in the process of gathering everything i need to start a Reef tank. I have decided that i want to get the Nuvo Micro 38 gallon tank. (24x19x19) I do not trust the stand that they sell with it, so i am looking into building my own. I have a few questions...

1. Is this Stand over kill for a tank this small?

The stand is overkill for most applications. However, it is also more tolerant of builder error. Plywood stands are capable of holding all but the most massive tanks but they require tools and skills that not everyone has.

2. Can i get away with 1"x4" wood or is the 2x4 recommended?

For a tank that small, yes 1X4s would be acceptable.

3. Would I need to put foam on the stand, and if so, does it go between the tank and the plywood on top of the stand or between the stand frame and the top plywood?
You only use foam if the tank requires it per the manufacturer. If the tank has plastic trim, you shouldn't use any foam.

What you should do is take the time and ensure the top of the stand is perfectly true. You can adjust the stand being slightly out of level as that depends on the floor its sitting on. True means its all one plane with no high or low spots.

4. How do i make those cool color coded drawings??:spin2:

Become an engineer......
 
Building a new 120 for my apartment. The plan is for a 48x24x24 with a coast to coast calflo overflow. Rimless or not is still up in the air.

Here's the frame of the stand I have so far. The tank is going to be on carpet on the second floor of an old house (full dimension 2x8s running perpendicular to the tank). Because of the carpet I am using legs to avoid smashing it as much as possible, along with allowing air to get under the stand in case of spillage.


The bottom is 2x4s which are mortise and tennoned into the upright 4x4s


The top is 2x6s which are resting on notches cut out by on the upright 4x4s


Top down view before I add the cross pieces and 3/4 plywood to the top and bottom.

I was feeling pretty confident about it untill somebody mentioned that the stand might no be strong enough and that I should put another set up legs in the middle. I think it should be strong enough but I'm not an engineer.

If there's any ideas tips or concerns feel free to chime in.
 
That is plenty strong. The 2*6's will deflect hardly at all over that span. See the first page of the thread. You should plywood the top.
Art

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
 
I did read it I was just nervous. I didn't think switching to 4x4 from 2x4 would make any difference i just wanted to double check . The top has 3/4 ply on it along with the cross pieces.
Thanks for the quick reply
 
Jackie Blue: Stand looks good! I love mortise and tenon joints. My one concern would be the pressure points created by all that weight on the 4 corners. Looking at the stand template rocketengineer supplied you can see the weight of the tank gets distributed along the entire foot print of the stand. The weight thus gets transferred to the floor joists that run under the stand. In your design, if the 4X4 isn't resting directly on a floor joist, the subfloor must carry all the weight and there is an increased risk of the 4X4's punching through the subfloor. Just some food for thought...
 
40 Gal Breeder

40 Gal Breeder

Have question for experts here
Planning on resting a 40 gal breeder on a short, 12 inch stand to rest on a low window alcove and bring it up to viewing height
Planning on a drawer for under the aquarium as part of the unit, would like to use 2x4 flat at the front of the unit, allow more height for my drawer front
In other words front edge weight carried by 1.5 inch height
Would the 36 inch span of the 2x4 on flat at the front, with all other sides being usual on edge have enough weight bearing for the 40 gal breeder?
 
I have a question for anyone who can help. I am planning on getting a Cadd Lights 50g Artisan Cube 24x24x20 and am looking at building the stand for it. However, I want it to be bigger than the normal 24x24 stand to fit everything underneath. Specifically the 18g sump it comes with and a water reservior for my ATO. Has anyone done this before? Thanks
 
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