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What paint would you recommend for the inside of the stand. I wanted to do it in white color, the guy at HD recommended that I use Hi gloss/satin interior paint. Is this a good option.

He also recommended - Thompsons Water seal - I did not like the natural wood look - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Thompson...roofing-Wood-Protector-TH-041801-16/204814319

Has anyone used the Rustoleum speciality paint -http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1-qt-White-Gloss-Appliance-Paint-241168/100674043

I was going to place a plywood on the bottom, use bathroom grade silicone to seal the edges and apply paint over it. Too many options are out there and very confusing. Any recommendations
 
psr119 said:
What paint would you recommend for the inside of the stand. I wanted to do it in white color, the guy at HD recommended that I use Hi gloss/satin interior paint. Is this a good option.

He also recommended - Thompsons Water seal - I did not like the natural wood look - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Thompson...roofing-Wood-Protector-TH-041801-16/204814319

Has anyone used the Rustoleum speciality paint -http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1-qt-White-Gloss-Appliance-Paint-241168/100674043

I was going to place a plywood on the bottom, use bathroom grade silicone to seal the edges and apply paint over it. Too many options are out there and very confusing. Any recommendations
Click to expand...
An epoxy based paint is what you are looking for for the inside of the stand.
 
psr119 said:
What paint would you recommend for the inside of the stand. I wanted to do it in white color, the guy at HD recommended that I use Hi gloss/satin interior paint. Is this a good option.

He also recommended - Thompsons Water seal - I did not like the natural wood look - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Thompson...roofing-Wood-Protector-TH-041801-16/204814319

Has anyone used the Rustoleum speciality paint -http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1-qt-White-Gloss-Appliance-Paint-241168/100674043

I was going to place a plywood on the bottom, use bathroom grade silicone to seal the edges and apply paint over it. Too many options are out there and very confusing. Any recommendations
Click to expand...

Use an oil based paint, it will dry like its sprayed on. I used Benjamin Moore satin impervo, excellent coverage, and very low odor, the only oil paint I know that leaves virtually zero odor. Do no use rust oleum oil base, the odor will knock you out, it is the worst I have ever used. Benjamin Moore oil is the best looking paint, easy to use, and 100% waterproof
 
When using pocket screws for the framing, is there a recommended size of screw? for me personally it's a 30g long stand that I'm using 2x4's as the frame, then skinning it out.
 
Been lurking for some time on ReefCentral. Many thanks to those who unknowingly provided inspiration and advice (RocketEngineer, DivingTheWorld, and a ton of others). I was finally able to get a tank after our latest move!! Sooo stoked. Downside is that it's going to be a freshwater cichlid tank--due to the boss' orders regarding cost and that I know a local cichlid expert. But I figure I'm getting my foot in the door and after the next move (since I'm on active duty), I'll switch to saltwater.

Anyways, since the tank will be freshwater, I'm not going to make a build thread so I thought I'd thank everyone and post the pics of the stand in progress. The frame is built per RocketEngineer's specs and a few additions. Wife (boss) was uncomfortable without the center braces even though for a 75g, they're unnecessary. I used pocket screws with a Kreg jig (AWESOME!) instead of the screw strips. The center horizontal braces are doubled because I'm using some spare plywood so the top and bottom won't be one continuous piece.

I did have a plan for the skin using hardwood (maple, cherry, or alder) but may reconsider that and use some sort of plywood depending on the price difference. In any case, the stand should be ready for the skin in the next day or two after I add the plywood top and bottom, caulk and paint, so I'll figure something out.

Thanks again to everyone!

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rickztahone said:
An epoxy based paint is what you are looking for for the inside of the stand.
Click to expand...

Kbel1969 said:
Use an oil based paint, it will dry like its sprayed on. I used Benjamin Moore satin impervo, excellent coverage, and very low odor, the only oil paint I know that leaves virtually zero odor. Do no use rust oleum oil base, the odor will knock you out, it is the worst I have ever used. Benjamin Moore oil is the best looking paint, easy to use, and 100% waterproof
Click to expand...


Thank you guys, I will look into the oil based paints the more people I talk to they are recommending oil based paints. What about the Kilz oil base primer complete?

http://www.kilz.com/products/primer/kilz-complete
 
psr119 said:
Thank you guys, I will look into the oil based paints the more people I talk to they are recommending oil based paints. What about the Kilz oil base primer complete?

http://www.kilz.com/products/primer/kilz-complete
Click to expand...

I used the zinnser bullseye, basically the same thing. Just make sure you use the oil base of primer as well, otherwise the finish coats of oil base won't adhere the same as if you used a water based primer. Very important to use oil all the way
 
Fortuitous timing since I'm at the same spot in stand construction. I read elsewhere that some people have used marine grade paints, but after reading the application instructions (first apply varnish and then the paint), seeing the price tag ($15 for the varnish and $15 for the paint) and the oil-based nature of those finishes (makes cleanup a hassle), I opted for spray paint + primer and then I was going to add polyurethane over the spray paint. Not good enough??
 
Has anyone ever used a spray gun to spray their stands? I have my automotive spray gun but wouldn't know what type of paint could be used for inside the stand?
 
I personally do not use oil, it gets brittle over time, I'm not sure what todays paints will do over time.
I use kilz 2 and then latex, it's much less odor and plenty durable, and I prefer the flex it maintains over time.

That Zinser has a LOT of odor compared to even the kilz oil, not a fan of that stuff at all
 
I do a lot of painting for a living. Zinnser and kilz are the same product with a different label. Oil is the only way to go with a wet environment, nothing will penetrate it, and salt residue will just lay on the surface for easy wiping without deteriorating the finish. Oil cleanup is just as easy as latex, just fill an empty coffe can with mineral spirits and agitate the brush till you see hardly any paint running off the brush, then run the brush under soap and water, and hang to dry. Oil can be brushed on and looks like it's sprayed once dry. The oil levels as it dries to create a nice flat sprayed on look. Probably the easiest paint to work with, you will definitely be happy with the end result
 
Well, both in the trade, 30 years here, licensed contractor, 2 years of trade school as a body shop painter, just giving my opinion.
Much more odor, and zinser is stronger IMO
Most people have been leaving oil for water for quite some time, but I understand there are a lot of people that cling to the oils.
 
Kbel1969 said:
I do a lot of painting for a living. Zinnser and kilz are the same product with a different label. Oil is the only way to go with a wet environment, nothing will penetrate it, and salt residue will just lay on the surface for easy wiping without deteriorating the finish. Oil cleanup is just as easy as latex, just fill an empty coffe can with mineral spirits and agitate the brush till you see hardly any paint running off the brush, then run the brush under soap and water, and hang to dry. Oil can be brushed on and looks like it's sprayed once dry. The oil levels as it dries to create a nice flat sprayed on look. Probably the easiest paint to work with, you will definitely be happy with the end result
Click to expand...

that is good info. Thx
 
No problem Ricardo, good luck with your stand, and hope it turns out beautiful. No matter what you do, it will be 100 times better than a manufactured one.

Dave, I completely understand, we all have opinions and methods we believe in. I just love oils for wet environments, and the quality and odor control of today are so much better than even 20 years ago. The Benjamin Moore impervo line is the best oil money can buy, and the odor is less than some latex paints, it is virtually orderless. And the oils now have so much flexibility with relation to temperature change and humidity change. I've done trim and doors for people with this paint, and 15 years later it looks the same as the day I did it. A truly remarkable product
 
I agree they hold a good finish, and they were more likely to become brittle in the older days, better now.
I do use oils when it comes to stains, and my clear coat, but in that I use polyeurethane, again, I lean towards what flexes, expands and contracts w/ the lumber.
One of my paint subs is hard stuck on oils when we do crown moulding, it takes longer to set and brush strokes lay down cleaner.
I agree it is preference of builder, I build a lot of aquarium stands for our local club here in San Diego, usually I do stain, but in paint I always do kilz 2 and a latex, and those have held up as well also around 15 years or so when i started building those.
Both have have good qualities
 
Agreed. For clear, I've found the Varathane oil to be the best, just a brilliant no blemish finish, easy application, and a rock hard finish, and surprisingly quick drying for an oil.
 
I've been using the minwax fast drying poly, 2 coats brushed on, sanded w/ 220 after each, and then I apply the spray for super clean smooth finish.
Have not tried the varethane yet but I know many like it, but you know it goes, you get a program dialed and it's hard to change to something new sometimes, for me anyways.
 
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