DIY Stands Template and Calculator

BlurrVT said:
If you still want to try magnets, go to supermagnetman.com. You'll find what you need there. Just make sure you don't get something so strong that you can't get the door off:)
Click to expand...
I learned this the hard way. Had a pair of rare earth magnets from a dishwasher, and they ripped a whole thru the pocket in my jeans.

To this day, they are stuck together with a peice of denim in between, a reminder.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Salty150 said:
LOL, yeah, I am sure :D

But don't want to spend $3,000 on a tank stand and canopy!
Click to expand...

If you are looking at that cabinet, and don't want to spend $3,000 for all that work, I suggest you take a woodworking class, not so you can build it yourself, but so you can understand that after tool investment, materials, and all the labor, that it is easily worth $3,000
 
davocean said:
If you are looking at that cabinet, and don't want to spend $3,000 for all that work, I suggest you take a woodworking class, not so you can build it yourself, but so you can understand that after tool investment, materials, and all the labor, that it is easily worth $3,000
Click to expand...

Oh, I guess I should have been more specific. That is my fault. :D

On the set up in the picture of the 108" x 36", 400 gallon tank - yes the stand/canopy/sides are definitely worth more than $3,000.

However, my new tank is only 60" x 18".
 
I used pocket cuts, scroll up and look at my links

I used pocket cuts, scroll up and look at my links

winflakes said:
I had one question that I haven't been able to find answered anywhere. How are the top and bottom frames secured to the legs? Are they only secured to the screw strips or are they secured to the uprights? I am almost done with a 48" for my 75G, and was about to order some 4-5 inch screws to screw down into the legs, but none of the posted pictures seem to have them attached that way.

- Winflakes
Click to expand...

I used pocket cuts, scroll up and look at my links. Just buy a jig and its very easy to do.
 
Last edited:
Edit: Salty150
You could do something similar but more simple, skip things like the dental moulding, and that may save you some, but you are going to have to look around local, maybe check local reef clubs and such
 
I think skill set is priceless

I think skill set is priceless

davocean said:
If you are looking at that cabinet, and don't want to spend $3,000 for all that work, I suggest you take a woodworking class, not so you can build it yourself, but so you can understand that after tool investment, materials, and all the labor, that it is easily worth $3,000
Click to expand...

I think skill set is priceless you can buy all the tools money can buy but if the skills are not there to make the cuts etc it will come out like crap lol....
 
richiero said:
I think skill set is priceless you can buy all the tools money can buy but if the skills are not there to make the cuts etc it will come out like crap lol....
Click to expand...

I typed before finishing my coffee and realized after I forgot to add that to the list but was too lazy to edit that in, but yes, totally agree, it takes a bit of experience to make a cabinet like that:thumbsup:
 
psr119 said:
Hi all,

I am getting a 150 G glass tank that I plan to setup as a peninsula tank with a ghost over flow. I was going to use Rocket Engineers design to build my stand with a few modifications.

Tank dimensions 60"X24"24"
Sump area: 75G (48") sump and 18" wide ATO container

I would like the ghost over flow to be hidden in a cabinet and was planning to build the stand to be 72" long.
Stand dimensions:
72"X25"35"
Use 2X6 for the top frame
Use 2X4 for the legs and the screw strips
Use 2X4 for the uprights on the top frame @ 20" 40" and 60" positions
Use 60"X25" plywood to sit between the tank and the stand, to distribute the weight
Use 2X4 on the bottom frame to support plywood and seal it to be water tight.
I was planning to have legs at the 60" position where the tank ends, between the top and bottom 72" rails with screw strips.

Questions:

I was going to have the uprights (@ 20",40",60") on the top frame to sit flush with the top so that they can give support to the plywood base "“ Is this a good idea?

Should I have legs at the 60" position to support the upright? If yes, can I use the screw strips to act as legs and have them sit on top of the 2X4 that is on the bottom frame? I was trying to avoid partitioning the sump area, by adding additional legs.

Use Kreg Jig and pocket screws to secure the legs to the top and bottom frame along with attaching them to the screw strips, is this okay?

I was going to build the bottom frame using 2X6 and seal it so that it can act like a wall in the event of an accident. Is this okay or should I go back to 2X4?

Should I use 72"X25" plywood instead of 60"X25" for the top frame with a hole cut out for the return and drain?

What thickness of plywood would you recommend?

Is this a good plan? Any concerns?

The tank will be sitting in the basement and I want to make sure that my modifications will not weaken the stand. Thank you for your help!!
Click to expand...
 
You don't need more than the four uprights in the corners of the tank. The 12" behind the tank doesn't need supports and can be left open for an access panel.

If you are using Kreg pocket holes, you don't need the screw strips.

The rest looks good to me.
 
psr119 said:
Can anybody please respond to my post. Thanks.
Click to expand...

What do you mean, you want the ghost overflow hidden? You want access to the gate valve, hiding it from access wouldn't be a smart thing to do. The only other option of course would be doing an in wall
 
psr119 said:
Can anybody please respond to my post. Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you are thinking 2x6 on edge for a deeper splash area that would sound tippy to me, but I live in a quake area so we tend to avoid things like that, so it would not be my choice.
If you are going to use ply for a top go w/ 3/4"
 
RocketEngineer said:
You don't need more than the four uprights in the corners of the tank. The 12" behind the tank doesn't need supports and can be left open for an access panel.

If you are using Kreg pocket holes, you don't need the screw strips.

The rest looks good to me.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I was getting worried about the weight distribution. Now its build time!
 
Kbel1969 said:
What do you mean, you want the ghost overflow hidden? You want access to the gate valve, hiding it from access wouldn't be a smart thing to do. The only other option of course would be doing an in wall
Click to expand...

Yes, I will have an access panel that I can open for the ghost overflow.

davocean said:
If you are thinking 2x6 on edge for a deeper splash area that would sound tippy to me, but I live in a quake area so we tend to avoid things like that, so it would not be my choice.
If you are going to use ply for a top go w/ 3/4"
Click to expand...

Yes. Okay, . I was going to have 2X4 connecting the bottom two rails and have a 1/2 or 3/4 plywood sitting on top and seal it for a 75G sump and ATO.
Okay. I will go for the 3/4 plywood for the top, with a hole for the overflow and return pipes.

Thank you!
 
Bow front tank

Bow front tank

Hi, I've been reading this thread from the original one, but is so very long to know if my questions have been covered before.

Essentially I have a 80g bow front tank 48" long by 18" at the widest point. The original base is an mdf panel design that has suffered water damage which swelled several of the panels, I'm very concerned they will catastrophically fail, so I'm looking at making a frame based as described here.

As my tank is bow fronted I cannot just rest on the horizontal members, so I think a panel laid on top would may be sufficient, my questions are how thick a panel would make that work and I guess what material to make that from, but also how should that panel be affixed to the frame, would wood glue and tank weight be all that's needed?

Any pointers on this would help enormously

thanks

Allan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Beam Deflection - 15 years and I finally broke down and wrote a how to.
Replies
16
Views
903
BeanAnimal
B
adova
300g DIY Acrylic Tank Recommendations
Replies
5
Views
133
griss
griss
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
528
S|\/|S
S
projectsWithSam
Sam's Oceanic 120
8 9 10
Replies
187
Views
2K
griss
griss
AZBigJohn
New Build... I'm back
Replies
15
Views
445
Dustin07
D
Back
Top