DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[EagleI]

I am thinking I am going to lay 3/4" plywood across the top, but still oversize by .5"-1" larger than the tank width so it wont be right at the end.



Even with plywood, wont I need cross braces on the top and bottom parts?

If it were me I'd do cross beams on both the top and bottom frame, plus 3/4 ply on top. It prevents skewing or twisting. Also, if you're not putting doors on all four sides you could add a center stud on the faces that won't be accessed but I don't know it to be necessary.

 

[BigJohnny]

Quick question,

I know that if the top supports have crowns, you are suppose to face the crown up so that the weight of the tank flattens it out, what about the bottom supports? If they have crowns should they be facing down so that the weight of the tank flattens them out too, or up like the top supports?

Thanks!

 

[EagleI]

Quick question,

I know that if the top supports have crowns, you are suppose to face the crown up so that the weight of the tank flattens it out, what about the bottom supports? If they have crowns should they be facing down so that the weight of the tank flattens them out too, or up like the top supports?

Thanks!

This may help you:

Ideally, the goal is to ensure that the curvature or crowns of every piece of lumber face the same direction. When framing floors, all joist crowns should face up. This way, after the subfloor and flooring is installed, the weight of furniture and occupants will tend to flatten out the slight hump created by the arching joists, correcting the crown. If you install the joists with crowns facing downward, the floor will inevitably sag.

 

[jharding08]

If it were me I'd do cross beams on both the top and bottom frame, plus 3/4 ply on top. It prevents skewing or twisting. Also, if you're not putting doors on all four sides you could add a center stud on the faces that won't be accessed but I don't know it to be necessary.

Would this be overkill for the cross braces on the top, with 3/4" plywood on top of that?

 

[Meshmez]

Would this be overkill for the cross braces on the top, with 3/4" plywood on top of that?

yes, that is overkill. I would actually suggest using 2x4s for the cross supports instead of 2x6 and offsetting them from the top surface. that way you have fewer interfaces with the plywood to be sure they are flat. Since your tank has a rim, the forces will be along the outside, so there will be nothing to push down on the plywood in the center. Your cross pieces would be just to help keep the frame square.

I would suggest using full sides of plywood on as many sides as you can (3/4" is overkill on the sides)

 

[BigJohnny]

This may help you:

Thanks. It does and it doesn't, framing of a floor is only 1 horizontal plane with weight spread out on top and would equate to the top of the stand, but the bottom of the stand is different in that the weight comes in through the vertical supports on the corners only. The concept of the crown facing up on the top frame of the stand so that the weight flattens it out makes sense and is what led me to believe that it should be reversed on the bottom because the weight will be through the support legs on the corners (high parts if you flipped the crown so that it was facing down) and would push down those high parts (against the solid floor) to straighten out the bottom crown. Does that make sense?

I feel like there is no way the weight of the vertical supports (only pushing on the outside ends) would straighten a crown if the outside edges are already the lowest part (crown facing up like the top frame of the stand).

For example-

Top of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank evenly distributed through the top of the frame would push down the center to flatten the crown

Bottom of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank goes through only the vertical supports on the ends, to the lowest parts of the crown which are already as low as they can be, which would leave the crown higher in the center.

I was thinking this would be better for the bottom:

Crown facing down, the weight of the tank goes through the vertical supports on the outside ends, to the highest parts of the crown which pushes them down to flatten the crown (the center of the crown is already at its lowest point)


Does that make sense? Having said that, i think it would be difficult to build a flat square stand, and level it without the weight already flattening down the bottom crown. The reason i thought of this is because i framed my stand with all crowns up (minimal) and there is a small gap between the floor and the center of the bottom frame. I dont see how that would flatten out unless i had additional weight from a big sump or something in the middle of the bottom frame. I do plan on having a 40b sump (probably equivalent to half full) which would likely help. I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

 

[BigJohnny]

Thanks. It does and it doesn't, framing of a floor is only 1 horizontal plane with weight spread out on top and would equate to the top of the stand, but the bottom of the stand is different in that the weight comes in through the vertical supports on the corners only. The concept of the crown facing up on the top frame of the stand so that the weight flattens it out makes sense and is what led me to believe that it should be reversed on the bottom because the weight will be through the support legs on the corners (high parts if you flipped the crown so that it was facing down) and would push down those high parts (against the solid floor) to straighten out the bottom crown. Does that make sense?

I feel like there is no way the weight of the vertical supports (only pushing on the outside ends) would straighten a crown if the outside edges are already the lowest part (crown facing up like the top frame of the stand).

For example-

Top of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank evenly distributed through the top of the frame would push down the center to flatten the crown

Bottom of the stand:

Crown facing up, the weight of the tank goes through only the vertical supports on the ends, to the lowest parts of the crown which are already as low as they can be, which would leave the crown higher in the center.

I was thinking this would be better for the bottom:

Crown facing down, the weight of the tank goes through the vertical supports on the outside ends, to the highest parts of the crown which pushes them down to flatten the crown (the center of the crown is already at its lowest point)


Does that make sense? Having said that, i think it would be difficult to build a flat square stand, and level it without the weight already flattening down the bottom crown. The reason i thought of this is because i framed my stand with all crowns up (minimal) and there is a small gap between the floor and the center of the bottom frame. I dont see how that would flatten out unless i had additional weight from a big sump or something in the middle of the bottom frame. I do plan on having a 40b sump (probably equivalent to half full) which would likely help. I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

Or, I have no idea what I am talking about.....

 

[Kbel1969]

I have built my stand(s) with crowns all facing up, that is actually the proper way to do it. Even if there is no load, over time, if it does decide to sag, be it gravity, humidity, whatever, it's good practice to have them facing up.

 

[GraviT]

I'm sure this has been asked at least a dozen times, but I've been reading this thread for days and am still not sure.

I have a custom 150 gallon (72.5x18.5x29.5) built with 3/4" glass. I've followed the original design and used 2x6 for the top frame and 2x4 for everything else.

The plan right now is to setup the tank on the frame and skin maybe a month down the road (we have a lot of work being done in our home as the result of hail damage and my 120 has to be torn down by Thursday with the 150 going up 2 weeks later) and I want to confirm that this stand configuration should work without center bracing in the interim. (Note, there will be 3 verticals on the front to support doors and hinges, but I hadn't planned on them doing much to support the tank.

Thanks in advance!

 

[simko]

Hi Everyone

Started reading the second part of this thread... I am about to start measuring and planning a new stand to hold my 5' 115 gallon tank and want to make room for a sump underneath. Have there any big changes in stand designing since page 1 of this second part? I have been skimming through this but havent gone too in depth, just wondering if i will be OK following the template from page 1 (of the second part). I was planning on making top and bottom frames from 2x6, then skinning the whole stand with some kind of thin veneer

 

[Reefer2727]

Hi All, I used these great plans to build a 75 gallon stand a few years ago. i am now upgrading to a 180 in wall. Just wondering if I should put plywood on the top of my stand on top of the 2x8 rails. I have been reading for hours and cant find the info I need. Does anyone recommend putting plywood under the glass tank? If so, would 3/4" be sufficient?

 

[joshmikow]

I'm building a steel stand for a 185g (60Lx24Wx30H). Is 2"x2" square tubing sufficient or should I go with 2"x3" rectangle tubing for the top and legs? Any design tips that differ from wood stands?

Also, what is the best way to cover the base of the stand where the equipment sits inside? Wood doesn't seem right since I'm building a steel stand. Is 1/8" steel plate sufficient? Do I need cross supports from front to back on the bottom rectangle? If not, can I put the bottom shelf on the underside of the stand and use those 2" for equipment?

I'd also like to add a drawer or two for food and tools but am not sure how to design those into the stand properly.

I'm planning to have it powder coated to help prevent it from rusting over time.

Thanks!

 

[BrettDS]

I'm building a steel stand

This thread is really for the discussion of wood stands in general and ones derived from rocket engineer's template in particular. You'll probably have better luck starting a new thread to discuss your steel stand ideas.

 

[BigJohnny]

OK quick question. I'm pretty sure this hasn't been discussed previously, but if it was I apologize because I could not find it. Is there need for some sort of additional bracing when you increase the height of the vertical supports by a certain point? The reason I ask is because I'm building a stand for my 90 which is 40" tall. I haven't finished skinning in plywood yet (only top no bottom shelf or sides/front/back), but the frame is a little flexy. Like if I take the top I can flex it a very small amount by shaking/attempting to rotate the top.

Will finishing skinning the stand in plywood eliminate this or do I need to add some additional bracing? I've built smaller stands like this before and never noticed this issue. It's square and level and all joints were clamped and screwed with #10 x 2 1/2 screws. All 2x4s except top frame which is 2x6 with a center 2x6 brace.

Here is where I am at so far:

Top and bottom shelf will be 3/4" birch ply with 1/2" birch ply sides/front/back.

Thoughts? Thanks!!!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[twistedfinn967]

Height question: Following Rocket's design, is there any structural reason to limit height? I'm wanting to go about 36" finished height for a standard 120 gallon tank (4x2x2).

I'm thinking that it should still be stable but want to make sure, and attaching it to the wall is not an option.

 

[Rhodophyta]

Quick question,

I prefer rockets design in that the 8 supports are positioned so that the front of the stand is 3" more open, but wouldn't putting the supports like this be more structurally sound? Id prefer to do it rockets way (to have more space below), but I have seen a lot of people do it this way instead and it looks like overlapping them like this "connects" everything together more. Again, the downside is the screw strips have to face the other way and the mouth of the stand from the front and back is 3" smaller. Thoughts?

THANKS!

I would say the difference is marginal. You are making the span of the laterals three inches shorter, which is not much. Wood door and window lintels are usually only supported by one short stud the inch and a half way. Sometimes architectural plans call for that to be doubled or doubled and turned adding another inch and a half or two inches of support. I think that may have more to do with door hinges on tall heavy doors and security deadbolts than with structure, but I never asked.

 

[zachtos]

My 300G deep dimension marineland tank (used), 6'L 3'W 2'T , I used 2x8 for the top pieces and 3/4" plywood. 2x4 braces at 2' and 4' of the 6' span in center. Only have center 2x4 brace to floor on front/sides, back is open for access purposes. Does this build look sufficient for the weight? (will use a wavemaker tunze)


Underneath very open


painted underneath,


black 3mil plastic is on top instead of paint.


Here are some other stands I built, but only 1 follows the template. They are less critical as they only house QT/Frag/water change stations.

 

[Timmy03]

Has anyone come across a stand build for a 155 bowfront?

 

[ealzaln]

I used Pine on my tank..Works just fine..Alot of those factory built ones are made from Pine anyway

 

[JaySchulz]

Hey RocketEngineer hopefully you can help me with a quick question I have about tank stand. You helped me on some previous deminsions but I've since changed them.

Tank will be 72"L x 72"W x 27"T
Stand height will be 42" Tall with canopy that will go to the ceiling.

I'm planing on giving my carpenter your design with top box being 2x8's or 2x10's headers and also having the header be two boards together on all sides for added strenght. Also plan on having cross beams.

Bottom box will be 2x6's with 2x4 cross beams

Vertical corners will be 2x8's

Lastly I plan on having one vertical center support dead center on all 4 sides. All 4 center supports will be 2x8's

Will this be sufficient for a 600 gallon tank. Thanks in advance.