davocean
Active member
Any wood glue is much better than liquid nails, liquid nails does not penetrate and bond like wood glue does.
I like to use Tightbond III as it is water resistant.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
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Any wood glue is much better than liquid nails, liquid nails does not penetrate and bond like wood glue does.
I like to use Tightbond III as it is water resistant.
Desert Sea
Member
Glue is only as good as the joint is that it is applied to. Joints need to fit well and not have any excess play. End grain does not provide a good surface for gluing as its too absorbent and will draw the glue into the pores before it gets a chance to create a bond.
For cabinet and finish grade work the Titebond III or Gorilla glue are good choices. For bonding dimensional lumber and plywood, which can be difficult to create tight fitting joints, PL 400 or Liquid Nails construction adhesive will work well as it has some gap filling qualities to it. The construction adhesive and carpenters glues if used correctly with good joinery, will be stronger then the wood itself.
davocean
Active member
I've been a carpenter for over 30 years now, and I'm a general contractor as well.
I can agree that a properly glued joint is indeed stronger than nails and you will tear the wood before breaking a properly glued joint, but I can't tell you how many times I've pulled apart boards where someone used liquid nails, and it comes apart at the joint every time, in fact you could scrape the boards of the liquid nails and reuse them even, and that's because the liquid nails does not penetrate, so it is nowhere near as strong as wood glue.
I can agree that a properly glued joint is indeed stronger than nails and you will tear the wood before breaking a properly glued joint, but I can't tell you how many times I've pulled apart boards where someone used liquid nails, and it comes apart at the joint every time, in fact you could scrape the boards of the liquid nails and reuse them even, and that's because the liquid nails does not penetrate, so it is nowhere near as strong as wood glue.
Desert Sea
Member
Sounds like you and I have similar backgrounds. :wavehand: I also have been doing carpentry for over 30 years and am a construction manager for large commercial projects.
I too have pulled apart joints adhered with construction adhesive. But the failure wasn't the adhesives fault. It usually is attributed to the adhesive being applied to a frozen or wet surface or the surface prep recommendations not being followed or adhesive that is past its prime. These adhesives are solvent based and an unopened tube will lose its solvent over time right through the card board cartridge. I'm also sure that at some point you've come across something put together with construction adhesive, pick your own flavor, and found that no matter what you do or how hard you try, that joint is not coming apart. The wood will fail first.
For construction adhesive I prefer PL over LN but they do have their place and when used properly is equivalent to "welding" the wood together.
davocean
Active member
Well, I can tell you this, I know of some very high end cabinet shops that use glue only for their cabinets, no nails or screws, and they do not use any type of liquid nails or construction adhesive.
Most of us in the trade see the use of liquid nails or similar as a plan B when they could not figure out how to join properly because something blocked that from being able to happen.
Many of us see it as a sign of hack work to be perfectly honest.
Most of us in the trade see the use of liquid nails or similar as a plan B when they could not figure out how to join properly because something blocked that from being able to happen.
Many of us see it as a sign of hack work to be perfectly honest.
Desert Sea
Member
I think you are misunderstanding my earlier post. Yes, I agree 100%. Anybody using construction adhesive for finished cabinet work is a shoe maker and should consider another line of work.
The suggestion for the use of construction adhesive was geared toward those who are building a stand frame out of dimensional lumber and will end up wrapping it with some other decorative material so that the glue joints aren't visible in the finished product.
Construction adhesive is beneficial to those who may not have the tools or experience to create perfect joints and there is a little bit of gap that needs to be dealt with. In this situation, the construction adhesive is more forgiving then the carpenters glue and they are able to get a sound bond despite a not so perfect fit.
Even with dimensional lumber, if a tight fitting joint can be made, carpenters wood glue would be the first choice especially the urethane based glues which have a high tack.
The suggestion for the use of construction adhesive was geared toward those who are building a stand frame out of dimensional lumber and will end up wrapping it with some other decorative material so that the glue joints aren't visible in the finished product.
Construction adhesive is beneficial to those who may not have the tools or experience to create perfect joints and there is a little bit of gap that needs to be dealt with. In this situation, the construction adhesive is more forgiving then the carpenters glue and they are able to get a sound bond despite a not so perfect fit.
Even with dimensional lumber, if a tight fitting joint can be made, carpenters wood glue would be the first choice especially the urethane based glues which have a high tack.
JonezNReef
Member
Any tips on making a stand for a 180g 2'x2'x6' that I can fit another 180g 2'x2'x6' tank under. I have a 7'x3' space to work with and want the top of the stand at 40". The top 180 will be a in wall DT while the other will be hidden behind the wall. Any thoughts or suggestions?
choss
New member
+1 on tightbond III. I use it when I glue together wood for tabletops and other surfaces that carry a lot of weight and it is incredibly strong and easy to work with.
If I were going to build a 48x24 stand, 36" high for a 105 gallon, skin the face sides and rear with 2 6" strips of 3/4 plywood glued and screwed on each corner mirroring the 2x4 upright studs (but no center brace) , could I do 2x4's at the top instead of 2x6?
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bigdave438
New member
rocketengineer.. need advice please..
i am building a glass aquarium measurements are
72"L x 31"w x 30"H the glass thickness will be 1/2" for the front back and sides, the bottom glass will be 3/4" thick non tempered and 1/2" thick euro bracing on top.
i would like your professional advice as to the stand build please with no center brace and 36" tall...i will also be skinning the stand with 3/4" birch plywood all 4 sides...thank you in advance..:rollface:
i am building a glass aquarium measurements are
72"L x 31"w x 30"H the glass thickness will be 1/2" for the front back and sides, the bottom glass will be 3/4" thick non tempered and 1/2" thick euro bracing on top.
i would like your professional advice as to the stand build please with no center brace and 36" tall...i will also be skinning the stand with 3/4" birch plywood all 4 sides...thank you in advance..:rollface:
JonezNReef
Member
bigdave438
New member
JonezNReef thank you,,i read that from the first page but i wanted to make sure before i got started...i am almost done with the complete remodeling of my basement just for this tank build...thanks again
JonezNReef
Member
No problem I am making a stand for my 180 and didn't want to use a center support either and plan on using a 2x8
bigdave438
New member
i also plan on building a 125 gallon sump 5' long to place inside the stand, center support would have been in the way. i am so eager to get started...lol...but the basement work gotta get done first and it feels like an eternity :headwally:
JonezNReef
Member
Yea I am super eager to get mine going. Mine is a little more challenging because I am going to have a 6' 180g tank with another 6' 180g tank below it. I am really hoping the stand will work out the way I hope. I'm not too worried because the old set up was a 180 on a 2x4 stand and it did fine. Of course that stand had center support too but worst case I can always get the lower tank in place and put a center support in if I feel it's necessary.
Also I have decided to go with 2x6 instead since I had about 15 12ft 2x6s given to me. I also plan on using truss hangers for extra support.
Also I have decided to go with 2x6 instead since I had about 15 12ft 2x6s given to me. I also plan on using truss hangers for extra support.
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bigdave438
New member
wow sounds very nice and looking forward to seeing the finish product...good luck..
JonezNReef
Member
So far I have framed the wall for the tank and got it installed. I was also able to assemble the top of the stand and test fit it. Once I got it in place and seen it fit I got it leveled and measured for the legs since each leg will be a different length since it's going in the old garage converted to master bedroom which has a pitched floor.
bigdave438
New member
nice...looks like alot of work in progress. are you building your own 180's ?
i am still in the building phase of my basement. it already was finished but had 1970's wood paneling. i gutted the entire basement and now i just finish studding the walls and cemented and waterproofed my foundation walls (Dryloc)..next up is to insulate, Sheetrock paint and moldings,electric and recessed light just been finished by electricians. then epoxy the cement floors the high gloss color the wife wants... then build her bar and banquette seating...once i am done with that list i can start the fun stuff my tank build..lol
i am still in the building phase of my basement. it already was finished but had 1970's wood paneling. i gutted the entire basement and now i just finish studding the walls and cemented and waterproofed my foundation walls (Dryloc)..next up is to insulate, Sheetrock paint and moldings,electric and recessed light just been finished by electricians. then epoxy the cement floors the high gloss color the wife wants... then build her bar and banquette seating...once i am done with that list i can start the fun stuff my tank build..lol
JonezNReef
Member
No the 180s are both stock Perfecto 6'x2'x2' tanks....nothing special. I just finished doing the electrical and drywall on the wall those tanks will be on. Now I need to tape and mud the wall and also paint the wall and stand before I install everything.
Here is my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2611735
Here is my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2611735
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bigdave438
New member
i am going to follow your build thread...thanks...i am thinking of starting a build thread once i finish the basement...the tank will be 6'x30"x30" with a sump 5'x24"x24" providing i get the space under my stand to fit the sump. size..
