DIY Stands Template and Calculator

ERICinFL - That's what I did for my 300 (72x36x27) 2x6 headers with a center brace and 2x4s for the everything else. It's been up and rock solid for a year now.
 
Accoeding to RocketEngineer,

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

Based on that, I think you should be fine. 2x4s for the legs and bottom frame will be fine as well.
 
Hey RocketEngineer... would this type stand work for a deep marineland 150g? They measure 36"L X 36"W x 27"H. What about center supports?
 
Jared J,

Because the tank would be equally supported on all four sides, the load on each is the same so 2X4 top frame would work fine.

RocketEngineer
 
I just finished my stand for my 75 and i built it to allow for my future 120. Thank you Rocket for all your work/advice. Just priming it and will paint it before the skin is applied. Painting this thing is such a pain in the a**
 
I just finished my stand for my 75 and i built it to allow for my future 120. Thank you Rocket for all your work/advice. Just priming it and will paint it before the skin is applied. Painting this thing is such a pain in the a**

serum, do you have any build pics or drawings of your frame design? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but not sure how to support the middle board that will support the 75. I'm hoping that after it's built I'll get the nod from the wife to let me upgrade.
 
serum, do you have any build pics or drawings of your frame design? I'm thinking of doing the same thing but not sure how to support the middle board that will support the 75. I'm hoping that after it's built I'll get the nod from the wife to let me upgrade.

I didn't take many pics, but here is a side shot and you will see a 2x6 upright for the 120 and a 2x4 upright for my existing 75. I went with a 2x6 upper frame as it was my first build ever and I wanted to be safe.
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Here is an inside shot showing the corner and you will clearly see where the 75 is going. I am only using one additional upright for the 75 as opposed to the 2 that are normally done. This was decided after the fact as this stand feels like it could hold up a house.
DSC02291.jpg

Here is a shot showing a v brace that I put in because I had extra wood. The stand was plenty sturdy on it's own, but since I had the wood...I added it.
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I have a wood/cut list on my blackberry that I could send you if you pm me your e-mail address.
 
Hi everyone. I'm from Singapore. I tried to look for 2x4 plywood over here but everybody told me that the thickest plywood we have here is 1" thick only.

The tank I want to go for is a 48" x 30" x 20" and the only way i can get 2x4 and 2x6 is if i get sollid wood pieces. Would I still need to make the top rail for my 125g tank using 2x6 pieces or is 2x4 for all the pieces sufficient since solid wood pieces seem to be more sturdy than plywood?
 
Rocket, I used your plans for my stand on my 180 and they came out GREAT....

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Unfortunately I am having to downsize my setup because the electric bill is just out of hand, so Im planning on "upgrading" by downsizing. I just picked up a 90g starfire rimless, the dimensions are 36"x24"x24". Im wondering if you feel I can use 2x3's (numbered 1-4 in your original picture) so that I can slide a breeder (36"x18") size tank underneath for a sump. All the rest of the lumber would still be 2x4's...

148629DIY_Stand_Template2.jpg


What do you think ???
 
Hi everyone. I'm from Singapore. I tried to look for 2x4 plywood over here but everybody told me that the thickest plywood we have here is 1" thick only.

The tank I want to go for is a 48" x 30" x 20" and the only way i can get 2x4 and 2x6 is if i get sollid wood pieces. Would I still need to make the top rail for my 125g tank using 2x6 pieces or is 2x4 for all the pieces sufficient since solid wood pieces seem to be more sturdy than plywood?

Hi yuandaokia,

2x4s and 2x6s come as solid wood. You won't find any made out of plywood. If your tank is 125g then you will probably want to use 2x6s for your top frame and 2x4s for the legs and bottom frames. HTH.
 
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for anyone who is skinning a stand i recommend considering what ive done here. simple clean and cost effective. just built this frame and covered it with marine canvas. said and done for under a hundred dollars. all attached by magnets for easy access. check it out tell me what you think. nothing ground breaking but come to think of it i havent seen too many around. going into it i figured i would be unhappy with the end result but fellas i couldnt be happier.
 
badazztealcobra,

The four boards you have indicated are in fact unnecessary. The load from the tank goes through the boards that are fully under the red pieces. I would consider making the stand 25"-26" deep to give you enough space to get the sump into the stand between the legs.

Good Luck.
 
badazztealcobra,

The four boards you have indicated are in fact unnecessary. The load from the tank goes through the boards that are fully under the red pieces. I would consider making the stand 25"-26" deep to give you enough space to get the sump into the stand between the legs.

Good Luck.

If I use 2x3's itll slide in there just fine from the side... Ill just do that if you say theyre actually unnecessary... I was thinking about making the stand slightly wider as well, but didnt want all the weight of the tank on the edges of the 2x4 top frame.

Do the nailing boards (green) have anything to do with the load bearing amount of the stand, or is it more to stop them from twisting ??? I have a bunch of extra 1x4's I was thinking about using for that if theyre not load bearing.

Im thinking I could pocket hole them into the 2x3 side, and then screw them into the 2x4 side, all with a liberal amount of Titebond III like I've been using... Thoughts ???
 
Poly U Finish Over Acrylic Latex Paint?

Poly U Finish Over Acrylic Latex Paint?

I painted my new 120 gal stand with Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Acrylic Satin Latex which matched my woodwork in the house. We have this same paint on our kitchen cabinet which get a good bit of water on them and heavy wear.

I talked to the SW Paint employees who said it would not be affected by saltwater, but I wanted to get another opinion.

Should I put a satin poly finish over the paint to insure water resistance? How will the acrylic latex react to a poly overcoat?

Thanks for any comments.

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