DIY Stands Template and Calculator
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Heavy Hittah
New member
what kind of material is everyone using for the sump floor and the top where the tanks sits?
would this be good. its 7/16 inch
and would just attach it with nails?
would this be good. its 7/16 inch
and would just attach it with nails?
randomworker
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14449731#post14449731 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Heavy Hittah
what kind of material is everyone using for the sump floor and the top where the tanks sits?
would this be good. its 7/16 inch
and would just attach it with nails?
I think OSB would swell up after getting wet a bunch of times, plywood would be a better choice although probably a few (but not a lot) more money. That's my 2 cents worth.
Heavy Hittah
New member
what thickness...1/4inch?do you just nail the plywood?
Heavy Hittah
New member
yea if the tank has a plastic trim (AGA i know has them) then you dont need a top for it to sit on. but if its acrylic or is just all glass then it needs to sit on something.
Heavy Hittah
New member
Someone please reassure me that these gaps are not that bad. can i still fill them in with siliconized latex caulk? one side is not touching the 2x4 but it is very close.
buccard
Premium Member
I cut some wood at an angle with the miter saw and sort-of shimmed/wedged the wood in the gap, then I caulked the cracks-I am going to put some vinyl flooring in to make clean ups easier-I should have waited on the caulk until after the flooring- I figure you want it water tight anyway so water doesnt get where you cant clean.
buccard
Premium Member
I did not skin mine with plywood- I used 1"x 6" and 1"x 4" pine boards(lowes and home depot have wide variety of sizes precut)
I am sure plywood would work well-I just wanted to avoid having to cut a square hole in plywood for the cabinet opening.
To hide the tank frame-you could skin the front and sides so the plywook covers the inch or two of frame and then trim it with what ever you want-you could use the trim itself as the cover and just fasten it to the height that would cover the frame.
I just tried to place things and sort of get a visual of how it would look and here is how I did it:
It is a pretty thick border but without the tank on it yet Its hard to say-with a 180 gallon you should be able to get away with that kind of border.
MVlk
New member
Finally started my build last night. Got the top and bottom frames built. Hope to have the rest of the frame built and ready for paint by the end of the weekend. I have not decided on the skin yet. Still debating whether to go in wall or not.
To build these I am working in my neighbors shop. He has all the tools needed including some nifty 90 degree corner jigs to help keep it all straight.
To build these I am working in my neighbors shop. He has all the tools needed including some nifty 90 degree corner jigs to help keep it all straight.
spsfreak
Premium Member
Heavy Hittah, I personally would redo that piece. Only real reason is the one end that does not touch the 2X4. No that a sumo is going to be extremly heavy, but you don't want to risk anything. All the other gaps can be filled in using an industrial glue that hardens, like liquid nails or the like. This will basically make it very rigid and strong while filling in the gaps.
Matt
Matt
Rhodes19
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14465852#post14465852 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by buccard
I did not skin mine with plywood- I used 1"x 6" and 1"x 4" pine boards(lowes and home depot have wide variety of sizes precut)
I am sure plywood would work well-I just wanted to avoid having to cut a square hole in plywood for the cabinet opening.
To hide the tank frame-you could skin the front and sides so the plywook covers the inch or two of frame and then trim it with what ever you want-you could use the trim itself as the cover and just fasten it to the height that would cover the frame.
I just tried to place things and sort of get a visual of how it would look and here is how I did it:
It is a pretty thick border but without the tank on it yet Its hard to say-with a 180 gallon you should be able to get away with that kind of border.
Roger,
Thanks for your response and for the picture. Its worth a 1000 words. I've been thinking about using board wood vs plywood. As long as it looks like furniture, my wife will be happy!!! I like your trim work as well. The thicker trim will look good with my tank. I'm going to start the frame this weekend between my honey do list and band practice and try to skin it during the week.
Thanks again for your help and for the picture. I greatly appreciate it.
Chris
jiriki
New member
I built a stand with the crown of the board up. Would that put undo stress on the tank? With the tank empty, there is a gap on both sides of the tank since the crown is supporting the middle.
I went ahead and filled it up watching the gaps on each side to see if the would shrink. I have a bulkhead on the bottom ready to drain into the basement sump should I need to. One side shrank and the other side still has a hairline gap. Should I shim it? Drain the tank and shave down the crown?
I went ahead and filled it up watching the gaps on each side to see if the would shrink. I have a bulkhead on the bottom ready to drain into the basement sump should I need to. One side shrank and the other side still has a hairline gap. Should I shim it? Drain the tank and shave down the crown?
maypo59
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14321067#post14321067 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by audiophile42
Is pocket drilling just screwing two pieces of wood together at an angle, like this?
As a bit of a note from a true dyed in the wool cabinet maker, while that is a pocket hole in the picture, that is a drywall screw stuck in it, and that type of screw, used in a pocket hole *can* cause the joint to fail, because it wedges the wood at the joint, where as the screw that should be used with a pocket hole joint has a flat bearing surface, to match the bottom of the pocket as cut by the jig's drill bit. Also, there are two different pitches of pocket hole screw, depending on what kind/type of wood you are fastening.
