DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[chewieee]

im building a stand for a 40g breeder tank. It has a plastic rim on the bottom, im not sure if the glass is tempered or not. My question is do i need to put a sheet of plywood on the top of the stand? Does it matter if i do or not? and if so why?

 

[chimmike]

yes, put plywood on the top of the stand.

 

[spsfreak]

If it has a plastic rim, you don't have to have plywood on top; you can just set it on the frame.

 

[4jlong]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14406158#post14406158 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spsfreak
If it has a plastic rim, you don't have to have plywood on top; you can just set it on the frame.

+1

 

[buccard]

Rocketengineer I used you design for a stand, I am currently in the process of skinning it-this is my first real project-I am very happy with the simplicity of your design-however I wanted to know if you though I needed a center bracket in the front(where the two doors will meet-red and orange) and if I should run one in same place in the back?-also should I run a center support between the red pieces?

my tank is a 90 gallon 48x18 footprint

 

[David - Miami]

You do not need a center brace. However, you can put a little strip on the inside of one of the doors to cover the crack and stop light from shining through if you have a refugium.

 

[chimmike]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14400851#post14400851 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chimmike
that's the thing, I'd rather not shim it because I know once I put the full weight of the tank on it, it might still get thrown off. And as for planing, well, I'd rather not do that, because should I move the stand later, I'd have to plane it to be flat to whatever surface that is.

I think if I do 6 leveling feet, that should help spread the weight.

I'm talking about using carriage bolts, too.....not just little rubber things.

anybody?

 

[chimmike]

and bump again to my question, are shims really the better choice than adjustable feet at either all 4 corners or in 6 spots, corners and middle of the long legs?

 

[RocketEngineer]

chimmike,

The simple answer is yes, shims along the entire length are better then adjustable feet because they help spread out the weight of the tank. If the floor is wood you are likely to get permanent imprints due to the weight being in just one small area. If the floor is tile you are likely to break it.

When I placed my 75g tank, I used cedar shakes which are $5 a bundle (lasts forever) and shimmed the stand with the tank empty. Then once the tank was full I pushed in the shims on the low side to level it off. Once everything was settled I scored the top of the shims with a utility knife and broke them off flush to the edge of the stand. Unless you really looked, you never would have noticed them.

Overall, shims are easier to adjust and less likely to cause damage.

buccard,
Do you think you could post some details on your doors? Looking good so are. Awaiting picture of the finished product.

 

[buccard]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14416846#post14416846 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
buccard,
Do you think you could post some details on your doors? Looking good so are. Awaiting picture of the finished product.

Yes, I will post more pictures of the doors-I am done assembling them. I have some hinges and knobs ordered and other than a little trim work the stand should be ready stain within about a weeks time. I will post later tonight.

 

[chimmike]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14416846#post14416846 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
chimmike,

The simple answer is yes, shims along the entire length are better then adjustable feet because they help spread out the weight of the tank. If the floor is wood you are likely to get permanent imprints due to the weight being in just one small area. If the floor is tile you are likely to break it.

When I placed my 75g tank, I used cedar shakes which are $5 a bundle (lasts forever) and shimmed the stand with the tank empty. Then once the tank was full I pushed in the shims on the low side to level it off. Once everything was settled I scored the top of the shims with a utility knife and broke them off flush to the edge of the stand. Unless you really looked, you never would have noticed them.

Overall, shims are easier to adjust and less likely to cause damage.

Fortunately, the floor is concrete, as it's my garage, so imprints or cracking will certainly not be an issue.

I'll have to check Lowes and see if they have cedar shakes.

 

[buccard]

Here is some shots of the door making:

First I framed the door-I went about 3/4 inch more than the opening:

Next I nailed a strip on the backside of the door with brad nails:

To give the door more strength I counter sunk 2 wood screws at
at each end of the back support.

All the fasteners were put in from the backside to keep the front looking clean.
I use a router to take the sharp edge off the front innner part of the door frame:

Next I glued thinner center panels into the door frame-to give the door some change in depth:

Gorrila glue expands as it drys so I added a 5 gallon bucket of weight to the door until the glue cured:

 

[buccard]

I trimmed the top and bottom:

I am waiting on hinges and knobs:

I will hang the doors, paint and stain the stand, Install the flooring inside and post the final pics within 2 weeks.

 

[Heavy Hittah]

Im about to start building my frame. I have 2 and 1/2 inch wood screws. Are these fine?

 

[chimmike]

I'd use deck screws, they're coated so they won't be as apt to rust....I used deck screws.

 

[Heavy Hittah]

They look like they have some kind of coating on them

 

[buccard]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14427563#post14427563 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chimmike
I'd use deck screws, they're coated so they won't be as apt to rust....I used deck screws.

+1 I used 2 1/2" deck screws for the frame as well-I believe they were grey in color-almost like a thin plastic coating on them.

 

[Rhodes19]

Hi All,

I'm looking for conformation that I will not be doing something stupid when I make my stand. I have a 180 g tank that is 72" x 24" x 24" and was thinking of using 2x6s for the top frame and 2x4s for the rest of the stand. I will probably have a vertical 2x4 in the center of the frames for support and to have something to hang the doors on. I'll skin it with 1/4" plywood. Am I on the right track? Also, I would like to put some molding on the stand high enough to hide the black plastic trim of the tank. What is the best way of doing that? Was thinking of putting the tank flush with the front of the top 2x6 and attach the molding over the top of the 1/4" plywood. Is there a better/cleaner looking way? Thanks.

 

[faze07hd]

nice, thanks for the post

 

[Rhodes19]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14318482#post14318482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodes19
RocketEngineer,

Thank you for all the information and time you have put into this thread. It has been useful and easy to understand. I was initially going to make some stands for my 45 and 55 based on your design but as of last week I now have a 180 to take their place. Based on recommendations I have read, I have decided not to use a center leg to make it easier to get a sump and other equipment in and out. From your guidelines I would need to use 2x8s for the top frame. Would I also need to use 2x8s for the bottom frame and support legs or would a smaller 2x work just as well? Also, I have a pocket hole jig and was thinking of using it to assemble the top and bottom frames. Would that be strong enough or should I put the screws into the ends? Thanks.

Chris.

Any one?