DIY Stands Template and Calculator

What does everyone think is better to skin the stand with? I don't want to use plywood because I don't want to have to deal with cutting out a big center piece so I can have access to my sump from the front of my tank. I was thinking I could use pine or poplar. I really like the polpar, but the pine I WAY WAY cheaper. Any suggestions? Is one stonger than the other? Thanks.
 
What does everyone think is better to skin the stand with? I don't want to use plywood because I don't want to have to deal with cutting out a big center piece so I can have access to my sump from the front of my tank. I was thinking I could use pine or poplar. I really like the polpar, but the pine I WAY WAY cheaper. Any suggestions? Is one stonger than the other? Thanks.

I did mine in select pine form Lowes for the same reason. As it is not supporting any weight, you will not have to worry about one being stronger than the other. Even saw one skined in cloth. Here is what mine looks like. Not the prettiest, but I like it. I'll get the doors and canopy done some day. LOL

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Here is my frame. Dimensions are 75 x 27.5 x 40 Inches. This will be fit very tightly in an alcove in my house and will only have top and front paneling. Frame is 2x4 and 2x6 on top. It is for a 180 gallon reef tank.

I am slightly worried about the 900 + lbs the tank will put on it. Is this or does it look sufficient?

<a href="http://s994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/grinner30/?action=view&current=100_1839.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/grinner30/100_1839.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame"></a>
 
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What does everyone think is better to skin the stand with? I don't want to use plywood because I don't want to have to deal with cutting out a big center piece so I can have access to my sump from the front of my tank. I was thinking I could use pine or poplar. I really like the polpar, but the pine I WAY WAY cheaper. Any suggestions? Is one stonger than the other? Thanks.
It's not hard to cut out a square hole in plywood. One way is to drill a hole somewhere inside the scribe marks for the hole, then use a sabre saw to make the cut. That is the way I'd suggest for most people. If you know how to make blind cuts with a circular saw and then finish the corners with a hand saw, that is quicker, but I suspect you would find that scarey and you should. It is something you should learn from a pro and never try to figure out on your own. I was at a public aquarium volunteering and they had a bunch of huge wine barrels they wanted to cut in half for displaying water lilies in the atrium. The project was at a standstill. I picked up a circular saw and blind cut them perfectly in minutes while they watched wide eyed. They weren't carpenters, for sure! They had already scribed the barrels with nice clear lines. From my perspective they had already done two thirds of the work. You know, measure twice, cut once.

Pine is a softwood and poplar is a hardwood. Poplars are the tallest North American deciduous tree because their wood has the highest strength per pound, but it's less dense than hardwoods like maple, black walnut, and oak. You can get a better finish on poplar than on pine, but if you are going to paint the stand, pine will be good.
 
It's not hard to cut out a square hole in plywood. One way is to drill a hole somewhere inside the scribe marks for the hole, then use a sabre saw to make the cut. That is the way I'd suggest for most people. If you know how to make blind cuts with a circular saw and then finish the corners with a hand saw, that is quicker, but I suspect you would find that scarey and you should. It is something you should learn from a pro and never try to figure out on your own. I was at a public aquarium volunteering and they had a bunch of huge wine barrels they wanted to cut in half for displaying water lilies in the atrium. The project was at a standstill. I picked up a circular saw and blind cut them perfectly in minutes while they watched wide eyed. They weren't carpenters, for sure! They had already scribed the barrels with nice clear lines. From my perspective they had already done two thirds of the work. You know, measure twice, cut once.

Pine is a softwood and poplar is a hardwood. Poplars are the tallest North American deciduous tree because their wood has the highest strength per pound, but it's less dense than hardwoods like maple, black walnut, and oak. You can get a better finish on poplar than on pine, but if you are going to paint the stand, pine will be good.[/QUO


Thanks for the info. I don't want to use plywood because I don't want to have to buy a whole sheet and be stuck with the scraps. That's why I fiugred I could use pine and only purchase what I need. Blind cuts... love em! I've always been able to eyeball and most of the time be dead on accurate. I love the way your stand turned out. That's exactly what I'm shooting for as far as the finish is concerned. I love the way a dark stain makes the grain POP. Do you think the poplar would look better stained? I have a prefab stand at home that has a finished pine look and I love it (knots and all).
 
Here is my frame. Dimensions are 75 x 27.5 x 40 Inches. This will be fit very tightly in an alcove in my house and will only have top and front paneling. Frame is 2x4 and 2x6 on top. It is for a 180 gallon reef tank.

I am slightly worried about the 900 + lbs the tank will put on it. Is this or does it look sufficient?

<a href="http://s994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/grinner30/?action=view&current=100_1839.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/grinner30/100_1839.jpg" border="0" alt="Frame"></a>

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.


That was from the first page of the thread. I think with those extra support legs close to the corners, that this should be fine. Why didn't you use 2x8s? Stand looks good though. Keep us posted on the progress. What are you going to skin it with?
 
Here is my frame. Dimensions are 75 x 27.5 x 40 Inches. This will be fit very tightly in an alcove in my house and will only have top and front paneling. Frame is 2x4 and 2x6 on top. It is for a 180 gallon reef tank.

I am slightly worried about the 900 + lbs the tank will put on it. Is this or does it look sufficient?
That should hold your tank quite well.
 
hey guys...

so i just got a 40 gal breeder from this dude off craigslist. seemed like a pretty decent setup when i first got it. he had the tank drilled in the back for an overflow. when i was moving the tank into my room, i guess the tank girated and split next to the bulk head. on furthur inspection he drilled like a 2 1/2 hole and had only likr a 1 1/2 pipe. i thought maybe that was the reason, but now that i have the new tank on the "stand" he gave me, im starting to think it was the stand.

i lie in a 2 story house, so its never going to be level or stable...right? i put a peice of 3/4 inh ply wood under the stand in hope of making it more sturdy. i shimmed the stand and tank be fore i added water. now that i added the water, rocks, and lives stock, its like a 1/4 off from front to back. if i leave it like this till i build my new stand for like a couple months or so, am i endanger of a bust?
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Hey guys. I'm finally going to start my stand and need some advice. Is it best for the tank to sit flush all the way around the stand, or is it better to have some kind of overlap, say having the tank sit 1/2 inch away from the edge? Does it matter where the tank sits, or does it have to be in a certain spot? Thanks guys.
 
grinner30,

It should be fine. I just filled my 180 the other day and put sand and rock are in it. Its sturdy and not going anywhere. :)
 
Hey guys. I'm finally going to start my stand and need some advice. Is it best for the tank to sit flush all the way around the stand, or is it better to have some kind of overlap, say having the tank sit 1/2 inch away from the edge? Does it matter where the tank sits, or does it have to be in a certain spot? Thanks guys.

As long as the edge of the tank sits solidly on the frame you will be ok. I made mine so the back of my tank sat more to the front there by giving me more room to get to the bulkhead. The front and sides of my tank sits almost flush with the outer edges of the top frame. HTH
 
hey guys...

so i just got a 40 gal breeder from this dude off craigslist. seemed like a pretty decent setup when i first got it. he had the tank drilled in the back for an overflow. when i was moving the tank into my room, i guess the tank girated and split next to the bulk head. on furthur inspection he drilled like a 2 1/2 hole and had only likr a 1 1/2 pipe. i thought maybe that was the reason, but now that i have the new tank on the "stand" he gave me, im starting to think it was the stand.

i lie in a 2 story house, so its never going to be level or stable...right? i put a peice of 3/4 inh ply wood under the stand in hope of making it more sturdy. i shimmed the stand and tank be fore i added water. now that i added the water, rocks, and lives stock, its like a 1/4 off from front to back. if i leave it like this till i build my new stand for like a couple months or so, am i endanger of a bust?
photo.jpg

photo_2-2.jpg

photo_3-2.jpg

heyyoitsnicky,

What exactly spit? Was it the glass? A 2 3/8" hole will take a bulkhead for a 1 1/5" plumbing. 1st story or 2nd story floors usually are not perfectly level so you do need to level the stand. If its 1/4" off, I would shim it to bring it up. Its probably not enought to break the tank but I would be more conserened with your split.
 
As long as the edge of the tank sits solidly on the frame you will be ok. I made mine so the back of my tank sat more to the front there by giving me more room to get to the bulkhead. The front and sides of my tank sits almost flush with the outer edges of the top frame. HTH



:thumbsup:
 
On a 215 gallon tank, 72" Long x 24" Deep x 30" Tall, I plan on using 2"x8"s for the top frame and 2"x4"'s for everything else, (as previously discussed). Since I am using the 2"x8"'s does this make center supports unnecessary? {Trying to fit a large sump underneath}.
 
On a 215 gallon tank, 72" Long x 24" Deep x 30" Tall, I plan on using 2"x8"s for the top frame and 2"x4"'s for everything else, (as previously discussed). Since I am using the 2"x8"'s does this make center supports unnecessary? {Trying to fit a large sump underneath}.

If I recall from RocketEnginer's inital post, for tanks bigger than 150, 2x8s are acceptable for tank lenghts of 72" without a center support. HTH
 
So, I have a question........ I am in the process of using this template to build two stands for two 55 gallons. What size screws are you all using for the purple pieces (legs)? Since they sit inside of the two box frames, you have to drill through the long end of the 2x4 before it gets to the legs. I've been using 2 1/2" deck screws for the rest of the assembly, and purchased 4" deck screws for the legs... That gives only a 1/2" of screw into the leg itself... Is this enough if I'm using the strips and skin?

Thanks!

BTW - the stands are both 40" tall to make each 55G sit at eye level.......
 
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You do not have to drill through the wide part of the 2x4 on any part of the schematic, the green and purple will be screwed together then the green will screw into the red/orange and yellow/blue. To screw the purple pieces together just start at the thin side of the 2x4 going into the thick side. I may have used 3" for those.
 
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