DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Rhodes19
New member
LOL, yeah, I had the same dilemma except it was oak or poplar and I went with select pine.
It worked. Hey, how about purple heart wood? Let me know if I can help you spend your money!! 
Rhodes19
New member
Mine rocked ever so slighly, but after I put the tank on with some water, no more problems. Do you need a top deck for your tank?
ERICinFL
Rejisturd Mimbur
No, I don't need a top deck, but I want one to add more stability, even though the skin will help. Let's put it this way; if a hurricane comes through, setting off tornadoes, which in turn picks up a train and throws it into the air, striking a jumbo jet, sending it plummeting towards my house, snagging a blimp along the way, then crashing into my house, I want to make sure my family and I will be safe under the stand.
Rhodes19
New member
no, i don't need a top deck, but i want one to add more stability, even though the skin will help. Let's put it this way; if a hurricane comes through, setting off tornadoes, which in turn picks up a train and throws it into the air, striking a jumbo jet, sending it plummeting towards my house, snagging a blimp along the way, then crashing into my house, i want to make sure my family and i will be safe under the stand.
rofl !!!!!
rangerD275
Member
So I finished my stand with quite a bit of inspiration from will16's build (still need to put the bottom in once its against the wall and level). The stand is level when on a flat surface, however when I put it against the wall the back is slightly (bubble touching the line) lower than the front because that's where the carpet goes under the molding and it is pressed down. I can put a thin strip underneath the back 2x4 all the way across the back, but I'm not sure if that affects the weight distribution. Or is shimming it better....if so, how many shim's should I use? I would imagine they would go front to back?
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rangerD275
Member
Thanks bro...That's what I was thinking as well, but I just wanted to be prepared if it wasn't level once it was full. I did put it where I wanted it and put the tank on it and nothing changed. I'm thinking that all that water and rock will change it at least somewhat.
fisherman2
New member
Ive got a question....I am building a stand for my 120g tank that is 48"x24". I want to build the stand to be 48"x40". The tank will sit in the front and there will be a gap behind it for later on when i get a 200g. Also inside the stand there will be a 48x18" frag tank and a 40br. Will 2x4's be ok for the stand and where can i get a pocket screw guide and pocket screws? There will be legs on each of the corners but none directly under the backside of the tank(if that makes sense)only a 2x4. LMK if this will work or if i HAVE to have legs under the two corners of the back of the tank instead of just at the corners of the stand.
erick001ace
New member
get kregs pocket screw guide 30 bucks at lowes great tool
rangerD275
Member
You can get the whole kit for $30 at HD, or Lowes. Guide, bit, and screws. If you plan on putting a 300 on that bad boy, you might want to consider bigger lumber for the top of the frame. I dont have the patience to look it up again but rocket engineer posted some recommendations based on tank size. I would think you would need 2x8's at least. I used 2x6's for the top of the frame and 2x4's for the rest.
Rhodes19
New member
fisherman,
For a 200g tank go with 2x8s for the top frame and 2x4s for the bottom frame and legs. Here is the link to RocketEnginer's OP. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964
As for the pocket screw jig, I gotmy Kreg from Lowes. If you are using soft wood, get the course screws. If you use 2x8 top frame and your span is 48" or less, I don't think you will need a middle leg for the back. I added one to my stand for my 180 FWIW. HTH.
David - Miami
Aquanot!
According to the original design, the wood has to be under the 4 corners. That is what holds the weight. You could add the additional piece behind it, but it must be under all four quarters.
Thanks for putting in the work and answering all of the questions here RocketEngineer!
Im trying to do something a little bit different that a couple of people have asked about but I havent really seen solved (It took me a couple of days, but I read all 67 pages!
). I want to build a stand that I can put a 125 gallon on top of and then put a 100 gallon with the same footprint underneath. I also like what saltwaterfishlover did here and want to do something similar. So my thoughts are a stand that is 7' long x 3' deep. That leaves me with a 6" shelf around the tank. I dont want a center support if I can avoid it so im assuming that ill need to go to 2x8 construction for the top box. That said, theres no good way to fit the same footprint under itself and still support all 4 corners. Are the joist hangers that saltwaterfishlover utilized a suitable solution or is there a better way to do this?
Top down view of what I have in mind: (shaded area represents tank)
Ill want a 3/4" plywood top on the entire 7x3 section, as well as a 1/4" skin on the sides and front. The back wall under the tank will also be skinned in 1/4". If I put the legs under the red/yellow intersections, would that support the tank? Is the load on the blue stringers enough that they would need joist hangers?
Alternatively, could I skip the red supports, put another orange across the back, put the legs in the 4 corners, and add enough stringers under the 3/4" plywood to make it strong enough to support the tank anywhere on top of the stand?
Thanks in advance!
Im trying to do something a little bit different that a couple of people have asked about but I havent really seen solved (It took me a couple of days, but I read all 67 pages!
Top down view of what I have in mind: (shaded area represents tank)
Ill want a 3/4" plywood top on the entire 7x3 section, as well as a 1/4" skin on the sides and front. The back wall under the tank will also be skinned in 1/4". If I put the legs under the red/yellow intersections, would that support the tank? Is the load on the blue stringers enough that they would need joist hangers?
Alternatively, could I skip the red supports, put another orange across the back, put the legs in the 4 corners, and add enough stringers under the 3/4" plywood to make it strong enough to support the tank anywhere on top of the stand?
Thanks in advance!
scarolina01
Tanger
I've been reading up on this thread for a while now and have finally jumped into buliding a stand for my new aquarium. I am planning on doing an upgrade later this year to a 70g tall (36x18x25). The plans that RocketEngineer laid out on the very first page were amazing. So easy to follow and it fit like a charm. This was the first carpentry task I've ever taken on, so I was a bit nervous. I also added some cross bracing on the top and bottom. The origional plans called for 1 piece in the center/top. I wanted to make sure my tank and sump weren't going anywhere. I'm not sure how to 'skin' the stand yet. I'm debating on getting a big 4x8 sheet of oak and doing a molding around the corners and a nice stain. Any other ideas? Here is a picture of my stand so far, and surprisingly I checked it and it came to almost 100% square. A little off on a few spots, but nothing big and it sat level, which was my main concern.
http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu235/gregbeyer01/IMG_1835.jpg
http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu235/gregbeyer01/IMG_1835.jpg
rangerD275
Member
Okay quick question. I had to groove out a small piece of the back support for my DIY stand to fit my bulk head fitting on the tank. How much will this affect a 2x6 holding a 150 gallon tank? Is this okay, or should I put a vertical 2x4 under the 2x6 directly under the groove..running from bottom of back/ top 2x6 down to bottom frame 2x4?
rangerD275
Member
Thanks,
That's what I was thinking as well. I'm also cutting 3/4" birch ply wood to fit inside of that opening in the back to create the back wall of the stand. I would think that would add some support as well
moondoggy4
Team RC
scaronlina01 I bought a 4x8 1/4'' teak plywood for 52 dollars so you have lots of options, Honduras mahogany is about the same price but the solid pieces if you wanted to put trim around it is cheaper then teak. You live in a big town so getting whatever you want should be easy just go to a real lumber store that sells by the board foot they have lots of choices and it is the same price as Home Depot or cheaper I am like a kid in a candy store in there my wife now fears those stores. Nothing wrong with Oak my first two stands are made off oak just don't be limited to want one or two stores sells.
