DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Hey guys I need some help... I want to buy a 29g tank that is 30"x12"x18" and use my 20g tall as a sump. So I was thinking building the stand 31"x13"x28" using 2x4s. Now I want to use plywood on top, bottom(sump), and sides. I also want to make a shelf so I can put my tank materials on the bottom of the stand on top of the sump. I would also like to put a trim around the display tank but don't know what to use. Now the questions I have are How thick would I have to get the plywood? What can I use for the shelf? What can I use for the trim? What would I have to do to the plywood so it won't get the damaged by my sump dropping water or something like that? Thanks
 
aa_ezra...

I meant pictures of the stand (without the tank on it), but that's okay. From what you describe, you should be fine. < 1mm is good. What I've done in the past is to apply some weather stripping (or other thin (< 1/4") foam) to take up any slack.
 
aa_ezra Another idea that may work Is go to a local hardware store and get the epoxy not the Bondo, it is in the paint aisle they use it for repairing dry rot on wood, the epoxy swells and shrinks with the wood the bondo does not. Put this stuff on and then sand it level.
 
I still have to take pictures of the stand I decided to stop stressing out and was going to use the Weather striping idea (rubber i assume).

So Is a 1mm max gap in the areas that i was able to put paper under in the photos going to be that critical?

I have some minwaxx High performance wood filler designed for all the normal wood filler stuff and for rotted wood.
I also have some really expensive body filler, i will have to check if its epoxy.

I'm just really in a tight spot. I have to return my 29 gallon because it is bowing and last day to return it is the 5th or 6th.

I have a large piece of acrylic that i could put over the top of the tank after adding apoxy to help sandwich it down to make it even and should be able to pry of when it dries. or borrow a large sanding block from the dad the autobody expert.

Really hoping to get assurance on one of these or other ideas so i don't end up flooding the house as im only renting

Thanks in advance

BTW the new tank is 37 Gallon Marina tank Kit i got at petco
 
Well, I'm pretty green at all of this, but I can answer one question at least. 1 1/4" deck screws are perfect. I bought box over the weekend and they are working well.

I was also planning on 1/2" ply with 3/4" on the bottom (I have a leftover half sheet from a few years ago). As for attaching the ply, I was planning on screwing from the outside and covering with moulding/trim.

I was going to paint the inside withe Kilz white (seems to be a popular choice).

Thanks for the added information. Especially the paint. I have been wondering about that but hadn't gotten around to doing a search.
 
**Bump to confirm my tank wont go boom**

I plan to build a stand for my 65 gallon tank (38x18x24) and wanted to be able to fit a 40 breeder (36x18x16). Would I be able to use this design but add a few inches to the width and length to fit the breeder underneath? I plan to build it up and then use a 3/4 inch wood panel mounted to the top frame for the aquarium to sit on.
 
I plan to build a stand for my 65 gallon tank (38x18x24) and wanted to be able to fit a 40 breeder (36x18x16). Would I be able to use this design but add a few inches to the width and length to fit the breeder underneath? I plan to build it up and then use a 3/4 inch wood panel mounted to the top frame for the aquarium to sit on.

I wouldn't do it. From what I think you're saying, the frame/base of the aquarium will sit inside the upright supports. That means most of the stress is where the top panel and upright supports overlap.

If you're really set on doing this, your best bet would be to turn two 2x4, 1x4, or even 1x3 on their edge and cross them from corner to corner. Then place your wood panel on top of those.

I hope this helps.
 
**Bump to confirm my tank wont go boom**

I plan to build a stand for my 65 gallon tank (38x18x24) and wanted to be able to fit a 40 breeder (36x18x16). Would I be able to use this design but add a few inches to the width and length to fit the breeder underneath? I plan to build it up and then use a 3/4 inch wood panel mounted to the top frame for the aquarium to sit on.

I would agree with Chris on the fact that if you would be putting the weight onto the plywood top and not the 2x frame. I would say that even with turning the top 2x's on their sides you would still have the same room beelow inside the stand as if you leave the 2x's on end.

I just finished the frame for the same tank you have, 65 High. Using 2x4 boards the inside dimensions of the stand are, 33 1/4" wide x 15 3/8" deep.

I am using a 20 long for a sump/fuge and it fits but very snug on either end and have about 2 inches on the front or back depending on how I have the sump/fuge situated. You might be able to get away with a 30" long tank and maybe about 14" wide, but that would probably be a custom acrylic job.

I can only fit a 20L inside mine partially due to the fact I have a divider wall inside the stand for electronics and control units.

Here's a few photos to show what I'm attempting to explain above (divider wall on left). :0) Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Alex

IMG_0014.jpg


IMG_0123.jpg
 
Not sure I understand every thing folks are saying. But here is my 2 cents.
Corssing the beams can't be done well unless you have a center upport. One of the corss piece would be cut in half. Or they would both be narrowed at there weakest spot. If I understand the suggestion correctly.

Also turning a 2x4 so the 4 inch side is down does not give the same performance as a 2x4 with the 2 inch side down. It will bend a lot more in the 4 inch down position.

Read back a few pages and there is a link to a dual stand that I think might work better.
 
I think I posted a while back with a question about what it takes to support a tank. I got some answer, but no documentation. Well, it was a while ago and I don't remember where I found these folks online. However, I asked them this
I have a question about glass tanks. I am building a stand, and I have read that glass tanks with a plastic support frame only need to be supported in the corner. Can you please tell me the minimum and recommended support requirements. I have an all glass tank that is about 15 years old. Thanks
The response was
Sorry for the delay in response.

That is true, for tanks 48" and smaller all you really need to support are either the two ends or if you do just the corners you will want about 3 to 4 inches from each corner in either direction supported. Larger tanks are a little different as the middle of the long edge would need supported as well.

Regards,

Rob Moneyhan
Central Aquatics Tech Lead
Phone# 888-255-4527 or 414-423-8544
Fax# 800-398-0396 or 414-421-9682
Email: rmoneyhan@central.com
 
I think I posted a while back with a question about what it takes to support a tank. I got some answer, but no documentation. Well, it was a while ago and I don't remember where I found these folks online. However, I asked them this

The response was


Thanks Fishmman65.

That makes sense why my pen plax metal 29 gallon stand (30"+) i had did support and all 4 corners of the tank without the ability to slip a piece of paper under it. The longest part or the stand (front and back) did have a gap.
 
I'm looking at the option of building a stand for my new 25g rimless cube build. I was wondering if using 1/2" thick oak plywood would be viable to use versus 2x4s for an something like an ELOS style stand that will sit no more than 3" off the ground?
Should I go with a thicker board or would that be fine?
 
I have 2 questions and i hope this is the right place to ask.

1) May i ask some of you to post pics of how you mounted the doors on your DIY stand. I built my from 2x4s and skinned with 1/4 oak if anyone else done it this way.

2) Where can i found some posts on DYI canopys

Thanks for the help
 
Can I replace the green boards with 1x4 to make a little more room? This will be for a 125 gal tank and plan on using 2x8 for top and bootom rail. Thanks for any help.
 
I used pocket screws and completely eliminated the green boards. They're only nail strips and provide no structural support. That's why they don't go the full height of the stand.
 
IIRC it was said that a 1x4 might bend. Really needs to be thicker.

[EDIT]
I read that wrong. The nail strips can be removed or use different size.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to introduce myself, not sure if this is the right spot for that or not...But since I just finished a stand for my brother in law ( who got me into saltwater ) I thought I might show his stand off. His only requests were that it didn't have a middle divider, and that the stand covered up the plastic trim of the tank.

2010-10-03_16-49-06_381.jpg

2010-10-03_16-48-35_703.jpg

2010-10-03_16-49-58_734.jpg

2010-10-03_16-48-51_742.jpg

2010-10-03_16-48-58_140.jpg


I told myself as soon as I'm done building his stand, I'll start on my own 75gal tank. I'm just piecing the equipment together right now, but someday I'll have an up and running tank. Let me know what you guys think, or changes I should have/could have made.
 
Back
Top