ok just seen this I am going to do a in wall 130"x24"x24" was thinking about 2x12" for the top and 2x6" on bottom how many center legs would I have to have? and are 2x4" ok
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
TheFishMan65
New member
Almost eleven feet. I think (but RE would have to verify) that a 2x12 might not need any. So one support will do it (glass right). And you could actually get by with a 2x6 for the top. 2x4 are ok for the legs and could actually be use for the bottom. This is if I understand RE analysis.
Mavrk
New member
I am planning to use this template to build a 34" high stand for my new 40 Breeder (36x18x17 ... well, really 36-3⁄16 x 18-1/4 x 16-15⁄16). I was thinking of using all 1x4 instead of 2x4 so it would be lighter (I figure the 2x4 version would be about 70-80 lbs). Is there a reason not to do this (warping, splitting, etc)? Should any of the the pieces (such as the screw strips) be bigger?
Of course that changes the calculations of the blue and yellow pieces to be D-1.5" instead of D-3" unless I am going nuts (wouldn't be the first time).
Are 1.25" deck screws the right size for the frame or are they too big?
I figure a 1/4" plywood skin would be sufficient as well. How do you prevent the screws from showing? can you screw it in from the inside or is this not as sturdy? Do I need to treat the plywood with anything? I am thinking the plywood on the inside bottom should be 3/4" unless someone tells me otherwise.
It has been a while since I built anything instead of just assembled it. So any input would be appreciated.
Of course that changes the calculations of the blue and yellow pieces to be D-1.5" instead of D-3" unless I am going nuts (wouldn't be the first time).
Are 1.25" deck screws the right size for the frame or are they too big?
I figure a 1/4" plywood skin would be sufficient as well. How do you prevent the screws from showing? can you screw it in from the inside or is this not as sturdy? Do I need to treat the plywood with anything? I am thinking the plywood on the inside bottom should be 3/4" unless someone tells me otherwise.
It has been a while since I built anything instead of just assembled it. So any input would be appreciated.
I plan to build a stand for my 65 gallon tank (38x18x24) and wanted to be able to fit a 40 breeder (36x18x16). Would I be able to use this design but add a few inches to the width and length to fit the breeder underneath? I plan to build it up and then use a 3/4 inch wood panel mounted to the top frame for the aquarium to sit on.
I would say 4x4s that is really long!! and maybe every 2 ft would work well.
ChrisBuono
New member
Here's mine...
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
richierich2000,
I recommend a single center leg with a 2X8 top frame. If you went with two legs evenly spaced, you could use 2X4 for the entire thing as each span would be less than 40 inches.
Mavrk,
For a 40B, 1X4 would be perfectly acceptable. When I did my stand, I used trim pieces held on with finishing nails to hide the screws.
patmack,
The typical 4X4 has too much moisture in the center of the piece of lumber and dries unevenly. This causes it to twist, warp, and/or split as the outside dries at a faster rate than the inside fibers. 2X4s are much more dimensionally stable (as long as you can find straight ones).
RocketEngineer
I recommend a single center leg with a 2X8 top frame. If you went with two legs evenly spaced, you could use 2X4 for the entire thing as each span would be less than 40 inches.
Mavrk,
For a 40B, 1X4 would be perfectly acceptable. When I did my stand, I used trim pieces held on with finishing nails to hide the screws.
patmack,
The typical 4X4 has too much moisture in the center of the piece of lumber and dries unevenly. This causes it to twist, warp, and/or split as the outside dries at a faster rate than the inside fibers. 2X4s are much more dimensionally stable (as long as you can find straight ones).
RocketEngineer
TheFishMan65
New member
There is a picture somewhere in here or a link
Dual level stand?
Dual level stand?
Mavrk
New member
Haha, yeah this is a popular one.
RocketEngineer: Thank you very much for answering all of our questions. This thread has saved me a lot of trouble (and money).
cooper13
New member
Well, I'm pretty green at all of this, but I can answer one question at least. 1 1/4" deck screws are perfect. I bought box over the weekend and they are working well.
I was also planning on 1/2" ply with 3/4" on the bottom (I have a leftover half sheet from a few years ago). As for attaching the ply, I was planning on screwing from the outside and covering with moulding/trim.
I was going to paint the inside withe Kilz white (seems to be a popular choice).
TheFishMan65
New member
It has also been recommended to use glue as well as screws. I used two coats of Kilz 2 and could still see the stamping on the wood. I didn't really care. But I decided to do a final coat of enamel high gloss. I am glad I did because I think it will be easier to wipe up any spills. I realize kilz seals the surface it just did not look like it had and and I was missing that arm and fuzzy feeling.
Took me forever to find the end of this tread(s) so here is my question.
How has everyone, or anyone been able to make the the top of the tank flat and level.
I have the same problem as this guy at the bottom of the thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964&page=39
But i have determined i don't have a high spot but rather one corner of the top plywood (1/2") tapers down only on one corner and i'm able to rock it.
BTW my first post here ever.
PS:the top pice of ply was not 100% flat as i stained it and it curled slightly. used a bottom box frame the same dimentions as the stand and used 2 clamps along the 2 longest 2x4's with some wood glue and put screws about 2hrs once it was dry enough.
im about to thow this thing in the trash!!
How has everyone, or anyone been able to make the the top of the tank flat and level.
I have the same problem as this guy at the bottom of the thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964&page=39
But i have determined i don't have a high spot but rather one corner of the top plywood (1/2") tapers down only on one corner and i'm able to rock it.
BTW my first post here ever.
PS:the top pice of ply was not 100% flat as i stained it and it curled slightly. used a bottom box frame the same dimentions as the stand and used 2 clamps along the 2 longest 2x4's with some wood glue and put screws about 2hrs once it was dry enough.
im about to thow this thing in the trash!!
TheFishMan65
New member
Well to quote RocketEngineer on the next page:
So sanding/planing the high spots maybe best. Is your floor level? Maybe that one let need to be shimmed.
So sanding/planing the high spots maybe best. Is your floor level? Maybe that one let need to be shimmed.
ChrisBuono
New member
Both flat and level are very important. If the top of your tank stand isn't flat, you'll stress the tank glass. Once the tank is filled with water, you'll likely have a big problem. While an un-level stand won't stress the glass nearly as much, the uneven weight distribution of the water in the tank will stress the seams. Over time those seams may begin to leak.
Pictures of your stand will help us to determine how best to deal with the problem. You mentioned curled wood, but a properly built stand shouldn't curl anywhere because of the vertical supports and how it's secured to the base.
moondoggy4
Team RC
aa ezra Welcome to reef Central!
Thank you for the welcome :celeb1:
Ok I took pictures
First photo is of the worst corner i can shove 5 pieces thick of printer paper and can add another but i have to force it in there (some drag) [ front left side of tank]
Second pictures is of the back right corner is good left corner even tho there is paper under it i had to jimmy it in there as there was decent drag
Third picture is of is of the side that i had to jimmy the paper in the corner in (front right side of tank)
Forth picture rear of tank
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17124611@N08/sets/72157624871690586/
So the paper is were there is gaps.And i got my feeler guage and the biggest gap is .035" (.89 mm) which is about the thickness of a line on my tapemeasure.
I put a container in the middle of the tank and filled it with about 1.5 gallons and the gaps are a little smaller i cant hear it rock anymore.
Oh Forgot to mention I put Screws on each corner last night to help out
and this morning i took the pictures and measurement
I've had to recut so many times its not funny. and fillping the stand today to see if it was level on the bottom i found gaps on the bottom 2x4 supporting beams on the corners after i already shimed the top beams!!!!!:furious:
Ok I took pictures
First photo is of the worst corner i can shove 5 pieces thick of printer paper and can add another but i have to force it in there (some drag) [ front left side of tank]
Second pictures is of the back right corner is good left corner even tho there is paper under it i had to jimmy it in there as there was decent drag
Third picture is of is of the side that i had to jimmy the paper in the corner in (front right side of tank)
Forth picture rear of tank
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17124611@N08/sets/72157624871690586/
So the paper is were there is gaps.And i got my feeler guage and the biggest gap is .035" (.89 mm) which is about the thickness of a line on my tapemeasure.
I put a container in the middle of the tank and filled it with about 1.5 gallons and the gaps are a little smaller i cant hear it rock anymore.
Oh Forgot to mention I put Screws on each corner last night to help out
and this morning i took the pictures and measurement
I've had to recut so many times its not funny. and fillping the stand today to see if it was level on the bottom i found gaps on the bottom 2x4 supporting beams on the corners after i already shimed the top beams!!!!!:furious:
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