DIY Stands Template and Calculator

Ahhhh yes, I see what you mean. I thing I would put a leg under each and every corner. That way, the legs would support the side support beams where it changed angles. A little more lumber, and a bit of a hassle, but more peace of mind.
 
Finally, a couple of pictures...lol. The stand is assembled, and in the living room. Well, partially assembled. The framework is complete and ready to hold up the tank. I'll probably have the tank on the stand tomorrow, depending on how much help I'm able to get. I'll sheet the stand later, most likely with 1/2" oak ply. The "floor" will be 1/2" CDX plywood. I had to build the stand in stages, that I could then bring into the house and assemble. Otherwise, it wouldn't fit through any doors.

3696454627_b43b489c1a_b.jpg


3697262482_0e1f54c772_b.jpg


Here's the tank, still crated up.

3697262030_c1c6751d69_b.jpg


3697261192_22806e0db7_b.jpg
 
Can someone link me to the site of (lumber) load calculator? Been reading from the begining but still could not find it, so may pages, I must missed.
 
shikhyung, I've read the entire thread and don't remember seeing a lumber load calculator. The "calculator" in the title, is the cut list calculator. A way of determining how many pieces and at what length to cut them.
 
If I plan to place my DT (40g, 3ft long) next to my frag tank (10g, 2ft long) on the same stand based on the design, should I worry about adding extra support on the side where the DT sits since it's heavier than my frag tank?
 
You will need supports under each corner of each tank. All supports will need to continue down to a continuous base. This is the only way that all the weight is not only supported, but spread throughout the largest floor surface area.
 
Hi, I need help. after load the tank (no water yet), I realized it's shagging on the width side-30"W. Stand is 60Lx30Wx36H. Top beams are 2x6, bottom are 2x4 . Legs are 2x6 and 2x4 on the width side. Temporary fix, I have to jack it up and support 2x4 in the middle.
39264P1000305.JPG

So I plan to glue and screw a piece of 1x8 plywood on the inside then remove the middle leg then glue and screw a 2x3 under the 2x6. After all add 2 legs 2x3 on each side. Basic is convert this 2x6 beam become 3x8.
39264P1000302.JPG

Is this the right way to fix this problem? Thanks.
 
Thanks returnsofsid. I just realized I may have run into a problem in my planning.

I already have my sump built. It's 16" in width. My tanks are 18" in width. Based on the design, the 2x4 bottom frame takes away 2" front and back a total of 4" from the width leaving me with 14" for my 16" wide sump. My question is can I use 1x4 for the bottom frame so I can fit the sump in the stand? My tank size are 40g breeder with a 10-15g frag tank.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15320052#post15320052 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by returnofsid
You will need supports under each corner of each tank. All supports will need to continue down to a continuous base. This is the only way that all the weight is not only supported, but spread throughout the largest floor surface area.
Click to expand...
 
so I just got back from buying the wood to do this and I must have misread the beginning lol..
Do yall think 2x10s are overkill for a 180g with no center brace in the doors??
 
yeah, but its space I could use to squeeze my 75 in there haha.. I want to use 2x6 on the base with 2x4 cross braces so I can have a "drip trap" I may just go swap the 2x10s for 2x8s
 
stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

First of all I'd like to say thanks to the OP and everyone else's great ideas. This is the most helpful topic I've come across.

Here's my plan for my stand that supports my frag tank and the 40g breeder (plumbed together). Note that due to my sump's front-to-back being 16" and my tanks' being 18", I'm using 1x6 (is there a such cut?) for the front and back side legs to accommodate it. A noob mistake. If I could do it again I would make my sump 15" or 14" deep.

Please advice if you see any red flags since this is my first time dealing with carpentry of any kind.

The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high

W=62"
D=18"
H=38" (kind of higher than average since the 40 breeder is not tall)

(a). Red 2x - Upper Rails: Length: 62"; Cut: 2x4

(b). Yellow 2x - Upper Ends: Length: D-3" = 15"; Cut: 2x4

(c). Green 4x - Screw Strips: Length: H-2" = 36; Cut: 2x4

(d). Purple 8x - Uprights: Length varies: H - 7" = 31"; Cut: 2x4

(e). Orange 2x - Bottom Rails: Length: 62"; Cut: 2x4

(f). Blue 6x - Bottom Ends: Length: D-3" = 15"; Cut: 2x4

(g). Brown 2x - Front and Back legs: Length = H - 7" = 31; Cut: 1x6 (This strange number is to accomodate my 16" front-to-back sump

(h). Unseen 62"x15" plywood that sits on the blue bottom ends and needs to be cut on 4 corners with a 1.5x5 rectangle to allow the green screw strips to go through. This is where the sump will be sitting on

Total pieces: 26

194808stand-diagram-low.jpg


Here's a simplified diagram showing my plan with the tanks sitting on the stand where the middle is supported by the 1x6.

194808stand-diagram-2d.jpg


Please let me know if this all makes sense. Thanks again.
 
Ply on the top is fine no matter what. Foam - depends on the style of tank.

If it's acrylic, or a "sides on bottom" glass tank, then yes.

If it's a traditional glass tank (with a rim around the bottom), then NO foam.
 
Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Re: stand for frag tank and 40 breeder

Ok updated the design. Ditched the brown 1x6 to use 2x4, added 2 inches to front-to-back to accommodate the 16" sump and added slabs on top. What do you guys think?

194808stand-diagram-v2-low.jpg


Looking from the side:
194808stand-profile-vieww.jpg


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15387746#post15387746 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finksmart
First of all I'd like to say thanks to the OP and everyone else's great ideas. This is the most helpful topic I've come across.

Here's my plan for my stand that supports my frag tank and the 40g breeder (plumbed together). Note that due to my sump's front-to-back being 16" and my tanks' being 18", I'm using 1x6 (is there a such cut?) for the front and back side legs to accommodate it. A noob mistake. If I could do it again I would make my sump 15" or 14" deep.

Please advice if you see any red flags since this is my first time dealing with carpentry of any kind.

The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high

W=62"
D=18"
H=38" (kind of higher than average since the 40 breeder is not tall)

(a). Red 2x - Upper Rails: Length: 62"; Cut: 2x4

(b). Yellow 2x - Upper Ends: Length: D-3" = 15"; Cut: 2x4

(c). Green 4x - Screw Strips: Length: H-2" = 36; Cut: 2x4

(d). Purple 8x - Uprights: Length varies: H - 7" = 31"; Cut: 2x4

(e). Orange 2x - Bottom Rails: Length: 62"; Cut: 2x4

(f). Blue 6x - Bottom Ends: Length: D-3" = 15"; Cut: 2x4

(g). Brown 2x - Front and Back legs: Length = H - 7" = 31; Cut: 1x6 (This strange number is to accomodate my 16" front-to-back sump

(h). Unseen 62"x15" plywood that sits on the blue bottom ends and needs to be cut on 4 corners with a 1.5x5 rectangle to allow the green screw strips to go through. This is where the sump will be sitting on

Total pieces: 26

194808stand-diagram-low.jpg


Here's a simplified diagram showing my plan with the tanks sitting on the stand where the middle is supported by the 1x6.

194808stand-diagram-2d.jpg


Please let me know if this all makes sense. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
 
Hey guys, i went through the last 15 pages looking for someone who made a canopy...i didn't see much.

Anyone have some pics/descriptions of how to make an attractive canopy? Im using T5 retro's as an fyi.
 
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