DIY Stands Template and Calculator

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15475603#post15475603 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finksmart
Can a stand support the tank only on the 4 corners w/o a frame? Or with one side of the frame missing?
I wouldn't try it. What size tank are we talking about? All the stands I have seen have had some sort of frame, either wood or metal. If it is an all glass aquarium I believe all the weight is distributed through the walls/bottom rim. The stress may be too great and cause the joints to fail. If your tank is acrylic, then you would need to support the enite bottom of the tank. What exactly did you have in mind? Any pictures? HTH
 
I was asking because I built my stand to support a 40 breeder and a frag tank. So the tanks would have support all around except where they meet. I do have a leg in those corners under the frame but not L shaped.

Here is a pic. I do plan to add some 2x4 perpendicular across and on top of the frame to support the bottom of the frag tank.

194808IMG_0047_22222.jpg



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15476143#post15476143 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodes19
I wouldn't try it. What size tank are we talking about? All the stands I have seen have had some sort of frame, either wood or metal. If it is an all glass aquarium I believe all the weight is distributed through the walls/bottom rim. The stress may be too great and cause the joints to fail. If your tank is acrylic, then you would need to support the enite bottom of the tank. What exactly did you have in mind? Any pictures? HTH
 
Here is a stand I build using the calulator.

This stand is for a 12" cube tank.

The stand is 16"L x 20"W.

12inchstand4.jpg



12inchstand5.jpg



This is it stained
12inchstand6.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15476480#post15476480 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finksmart
I was asking because I built my stand to support a 40 breeder and a frag tank. So the tanks would have support all around except where they meet. I do have a leg in those corners under the frame but not L shaped.

Here is a pic. I do plan to add some 2x4 perpendicular across and on top of the frame to support the bottom of the frag tank.

194808IMG_0047_22222.jpg
Ok,

Pictures are worth a 1000 words. I had visions of just legs pointing up in the air with no horizontal supports. :confused: You might be ok without the cross piece under that end of your 40 but I would add a 2x4 to be on the safe side. That piece will also help the frame from spreading appart. That set up is gong to be nice once you get it built. Will the tanks be on the same system or will they have separate systems?

It looks like your frag tank is acrylic. If it is, you will need to have all of it sitting on plywood with styrofoam in between the bottom of the tank and the plywood. If thats the case, you might want to consider just covering the intire top of your stand with plywood and you wont have to worry about putting in braces. You won't need styrofoam for your 40. What are you going to skin your stand with? Can't wait to see the final product. :D
 
Slight variation

Slight variation

It took all day but I read all 57 pages with just a small break to go buy a pocket jig. So naturally, I have several questions. the build will be for a 75 (48.5"x 18.5" foot print) and I do not plan on skinning it.

1. could I use 6/4 (1 5/16) hard maple instead of 2x4's?

2. Could I make the purple pieces go all the way down to the floor and place the orange and lower blue one inside of them?

3. I'm thinking about making the top frame 4" wide and the lower 6" would this add or subtract strength?

4. If I did it this way what would be the best way to mount the doors flush with the top?
 
Hey Rhodes your setup is sick and awesome wood work!

But yeah they will both be plumbed together. Good call on the plywood and I will add foam under the frag tank. Thanks for the pointer. Also I like the way wood looks naturally plus I'm very lazy so I only applied polyurethane and will leave it at that. But thanks for your feedback that part was what's been holding back the project now I can move forward. =)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15487266#post15487266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finksmart
Hey Rhodes your setup is sick and awesome wood work!

But yeah they will both be plumbed together. Good call on the plywood and I will add foam under the frag tank. Thanks for the pointer. Also I like the way wood looks naturally plus I'm very lazy so I only applied polyurethane and will leave it at that. But thanks for your feedback that part was what's been holding back the project now I can move forward. =)
finksmart,

Thanks, and I'm glad I could help. I learned a lot form the folks here. My wife wants a red mahogany type stain (happy wife, happy life) so after I do that, I will polyurethane it as well. Keep us posted on your build. Its going to look great. :D
 
Re: Slight variation

Re: Slight variation

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15487259#post15487259 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jet fixer
It took all day but I read all 57 pages with just a small break to go buy a pocket jig. So naturally, I have several questions. the build will be for a 75 (48.5"x 18.5" foot print) and I do not plan on skinning it.

1. could I use 6/4 (1 5/16) hard maple instead of 2x4's?

2. Could I make the purple pieces go all the way down to the floor and place the orange and lower blue one inside of them?

3. I'm thinking about making the top frame 4" wide and the lower 6" would this add or subtract strength?

4. If I did it this way what would be the best way to mount the doors flush with the top?

One more question: Would I need to reinforce a red or yellow rail if I cut a 2 3/4x 3 7/8 hole to install a controller head unit? If so how?
 
So I built the stand as recommended here for my 180... 2x8 header, 2x6 on the bottom and 2x4s allt he way around. I am in the process of planning for the skin and am wondering what everyone else is using?
Originally I was planning on using 1/2" on the stand and 1/4" for the canopy, but someone told me I should use 3/4" on the stand? is that overkill? I am wanting to use birch or something similiar with little grain since I am staining it real dark
 
Well I am using 1/4'' teak for the door inserts and the sides, then skinning it with Aphrosia wood( poor mans teak) 10 dollars a board feet. How bout honduras mahogany it is a lot cheaper and beautiful.
 
Quick question guys.

I'm building a stand for a standard 90 gal. However, I want enough room to slide a 55 gal in and out. I'm wondering if making the stand exactly how it's shown in the guide, but a bit wider.

This is what I have in mind for the top section of the stand.
stand-1.jpg~original


Will this work?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This a great template. I used it to build the stand for my 90 this past spring. I just used it to build a matching storage bench for my ATO buckets and 2 part, and then to build a stand with a storage cubby for my sons tortoise.

I can't take all the credit.... my wife made the cushion.




 
Going to be building a 125gal stand soon. Nice thread. Skipped most of the reading though :( Lots of nice builds.

I'm planning 2x8's for the top as I don't want a center brace. 2x4's for the rest of it are ok correct? I didn't see anythign about 2x6's on the bottom but thought I better check.

Want to make the tank 22" front to back so have room for a bigger sump. Will basically build it for 72x18 but make the back 4" out of 2x4 header, legs, etc. That should be a-ok correct?

Lunchbucket
 
I have 65G AGA tank and stand combo that a friend gave me. I find it strange to read comments about the wood not being thick enough for their builds. I'm sure if you saw the stands they use you're probably making your stand overkill with the amount of wood you're using but it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
Does anyone know what the dimensions are for the location of the holes for a 90 RR AGA tank w/ corner overflow. I want to start designing a stand, but I dont know where the holes are located.
 
After my first attempt, that was my design, was a failure. I found this site, and I got my measurements and went to a real lumber store that sells lumber for making patio covers. I had them cut all of the lengths with two new cuts no old ends. then I had them re saw the top and bottom so that edge is flat and 90 degrees. I got all of the lumber and cut to size for 25 dollars. Then I used the Kregg system instead of lag bolts, much faster. It wasn't for my bad batteries on my cordless drill I would have been done even faster had it built in one day. Now I am putting in the wood towels, you don't want the screws head to rust. I took plenty of pictures if only I knew how to post them. I did not think I would like the 2x6 for the top but soon found them to be easier to use. This time my stand is plumb 90 and level unlike my first stand I call fire wood that is in my side yard. Thanks for all of the resources.
 
moondaggy4,

Upload your pictures to a photo server like photobucket (there are others out there as well). Once they are uploaded there will be an IMG address assigned to it. Copy the IMG address and then paste it into your posting. Oh, and congrats on your stand.
 
Top rail size for 60" x 30" x 25" Tall Glass Tank

Top rail size for 60" x 30" x 25" Tall Glass Tank

RocketEngineer:

Thanks for posting these plans. I used them with a friends help
to construct a new stand for my 75 gallon.
Then, I pretty much used Will16's skinning plan to finish it.

Now, I want to build another stand for my new tank, ~200 gallons.
It is 60" long by 30" wide by 25" tall. Without any vertical center
bracing on the sides or front/back of the stand, can I build it like
a typical 180 - only 2x6 top rails, the rest 2x4's, and use pocket screws?

I read through most of this thread, and I see that a typical 180
needs 2x6 top rails, can use 2x4 throughout elsewhere, and can
I use pocket screws instead of the screw strips.

Thanks for the help
 
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