DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15696633#post15696633 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by moondoggy4
What I did was get some 1'' X5'' thick board popular or white oak and cut them 1'' inch square ( so they would be 1'' x say 6 feet long) and then cut to whatever the height of the canopy will be. Get 1/2'' plywood, I do not like using screws that go into plywood not very strong, so I use the 1'' strip wood for the frame and screw into that. You could make it a false top so that it is open. that would be very easy to do. PS my next canopy. I will try to post some pictures.

Thanks!

I am also going to copy someones canopy that i found around page 20-25 in this thread (the part before the split). It looks like what you described...i think lol.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I got the stand done, now im working on sanding it and getting it ready for stain.

Any wood workers out their that can tell me how far i need to go with the sand paper in order to make the finish like a show piece? Ive gone over some joints that were not flush with 80 to level them out, then i worked my way around the stand with 100, then 120, and i just finished with the 150. How many more steps should i take? Its been so long since i worked with hardwoods, i dont want to forget something little and wreck the whole piece!

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I should have googled first huh?

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Rules_for_Sanding_Wood/

Good read for a wood working novice.

 

[David - Miami]

Great article! Thanks.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

No problem, following that articles advice i went and re-sanded everything with 100 grit. No more planer marks, and the stand looks 100% better! Now i just got to hit the whole thing with 120, and 150...maybe 180 if im feeling a little crazy.

 

[flying_dutchman]

Thanks RocketEngineer, this is the stand I build with it:

 

[flamron]

My new tank is 49x26x24 - approx 130g.

I am going to do this using 2x6 across the top. I don't need middle vertical bracing do I?

Also, it is acrylic, so would 1/2" top be fine? Or would I want to use 3/4?

 

[benihana]

you will be fine. I built my stand for my 120 (60" span) with 2x6's, and have had no issues

 

[SOON2BREEFER]

Much thanks to you RocketEngineer for taking the time to start this thread. Without your template I would have wandered aimlessly while designing my stand. I have learned, and avoided doing so by reading this thread, that a small design error can cause a serious problem (I never want to hear the sound of glass breaking in my living room :eek1 Also much thanks to all of those who have posted in this thread. I have gained inspiration from many other's tank builds, as well as learned from their questions asked. Below is a picture of the stand and canopy I just finished for my 90gal reef. My build thread can be found at
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1713787

 

[SOON2BREEFER]

No problem, following that articles advice i went and re-sanded everything with 100 grit. No more planer marks, and the stand looks 100% better! Now i just got to hit the whole thing with 120, and 150...maybe 180 if im feeling a little crazy.

I'd skip the 180 and do a 220 and then a 400. It will make it as smooth as a baby's butt. Not so much a concern if painting, but will be a noticable difference if you are staining the finished stand.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I'd skip the 180 and do a 220 and then a 400. It will make it as smooth as a baby's butt. Not so much a concern if painting, but will be a noticable difference if you are staining the finished stand.

Yes i am staining it. I took some pics of it today, and could see areas that were different shades from sanding...but i could not see them without the flash.

Should i re-sand the whole stand with 220, and then finish with 400?

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Here is a pic where you can see the 'blotches' if you look on the face of the stand, just below the top rail:

Will that be obvious after staining?


Also, would someone recommend me a stain? I cant decide!

 

[SOON2BREEFER]

Here is a pic where you can see the 'blotches' if you look on the face of the stand, just below the top rail: Will that be obvious after staining? Also, would someone recommend me a stain? I cant decide!

I would sand again but that's just me. Your stand looks good and would be a shame to skimp on the finishing. The pictures make it appear it was spot sanded. As you go smoother be sure to sand complete areas. I was gonna just stop with the 220, but after testing the 400 on a spare piece, I just did it. I figured what's an extra 5 minutes compared to all the time I've invested. It took a little extra time, but made the finish super smooth.
For stain I used Minwax. I also used a pre-stain to make sure the stain stained evenly. I felt important since I was using pine. I finished with tung-oil. Was another personal preference, mostly to match other furniture in the house.

 

[Moebuis]

Wow! I just read through the entire thread including the splits. There's some very nice work in here. I used a similar design on a 40B stand but bought an AGA stand for my last 75g and really regret doing so. Now the only way for me to remove my sump is with a hammer:hammer:

Here's my question. I want to build a stand for my existing 75g and allow for a future upgrade to a 120g with the same length but 6" deeper. Do you think I could build a stand with an additional support for either by using a deck joist?

 

[frankpayne32]

For the engineers/stand experts out there. I am building a stand for my soon to be 125 gallon tank (72" long). I have the wood cut already based on the stand template calculator. I used 2 x 6's for the long support pieces. Do you think I should have center supports at the back of the stand. This stand is for an in wall tank and I would like to have that space open for storage/sump. But of course I don't want their to be any possibility of bowing in the future. I will also be using 1/2" plywood to cover the top and sides of the stand. Thanks for the help!

Frank

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I would sand again but that's just me. Your stand looks good and would be a shame to skimp on the finishing. The pictures make it appear it was spot sanded. As you go smoother be sure to sand complete areas. I was gonna just stop with the 220, but after testing the 400 on a spare piece, I just did it. I figured what's an extra 5 minutes compared to all the time I've invested. It took a little extra time, but made the finish super smooth.
For stain I used Minwax. I also used a pre-stain to make sure the stain stained evenly. I felt important since I was using pine. I finished with tung-oil. Was another personal preference, mostly to match other furniture in the house.

I just got down doing the whole stand with 150 grit, ill start on the 220 tomorrow or Thursday. Its really starting to look nice!

Should i consider using a pre-stain like you mentioned even though i am using 100% all red oak?

 

[SOON2BREEFER]

Should i consider using a pre-stain like you mentioned even though i am using 100% all red oak?

I don't think it's as neccessary with oak. It is mostly recommended for soft woods, like the pine I used. It worked really well in my case, but it's up to you if you want to go that far. Might be unneccessary money spent.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

If the stain sits funny on the stand, i would have to restart the sanding at 80 grit and work my way back up to remove the stain right?

 

[ERICinFL]

Well, I'm going to start building the stand and canopy for my 150. It's 72" long X 18" deep X 27" tall. I just want one center brace in the front, so I'm assuming I'll need 2x6 supports along the top (reds) and I'll use them for the sides (yellows) for continuity. I should be able to use 2x4s for everything else, including the center braces, correct?

 

[ERICinFL]

I really want to get started on this, so if anyone has an answer, it'd be appreciated. Thanks.