DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[snaza]

No need to worry about finding bigger stock.
The design of this stand is extremely overbuilt for simplicity's sake (and the OP's protection. ).

I'm currently working on plans for a modified clone of a Perfecto stand.
Structurally the 265g 7' long factory-made stand uses no top rail at all. Just a sheet of 3/4" plywood for the top with a couple of 8" wide 3/4" plywood legs at the corners and in the middle. (no nail strips or any additional corner bracing either)
There are 2 openings in the front, one of them 48" long with essentially nothing supporting it except the plywood top.

Since that is how a professional stand is engineered and built (which they require for the full 5yr warranty) you are very safe using a 2x4 top rail even if you chose not to add a center support.

*edit*
Rhodo beat me to it.

Thanks. I will use a centre support just incase. I plan on having removable panels on both side so they will no provide any stuctural stength. Is this a problem or will I have trouble with the frame twisting. I'll use a ply top

thanks

 

[loyalrogue]

Thanks. I will use a centre support just incase. I plan on having removable panels on both side so they will no provide any stuctural stength. Is this a problem or will I have trouble with the frame twisting. I'll use a ply top

thanks

Removable panels are a great idea.
The 2x4 frame is all the structure you need.
On a frame this height using 2x4 legs in an "L" formation at each corner there will not be any twisting or racking to worry about.

Here is another thread I've been watching with a simplified design based off of this thread for a 75g and it is a rock-solid design by itself even without the skin and using pocket screws instead of nail strips:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1809489

 

[Rhodes19]

I went with a gloss finish and its almost to the darkness i want. 1 more coat and i hope to get that color i want

Nice. I like the gloss.

 

[flamron]

Here is mine about 98% completed. I still have a little poly to put on and do a bit of touchup. After that, I will be plumbing it and getting prepped for the switchover from my 75.

I went with white to match the house's trim and woodwork. It is hard to see, but I used a high gloss white paint with several coats of polyacrylic on top to give it a nice shine.

 

[CorkPullerPHL]

Nice design. That's a clever way to add extra sump space!

 

[flamron]

It was more of a necessity actually. I ended up putting my external overflow on the left end, so it really served a dual purpose.

Also, I am going for a built in look, so oversizing it to this size will allow it to butt up against both walls that I am putting the tank.

Just for a size reference, the CO2 bottle in the back right is a little over 28" tall (20lb bottle). I am tired of not having room to operate under my 75, so I built this stand tall (43" to be exact). Plus, it raises the viewing area to a normal person's height (I'm 6'6", so I still have to bend over a little to view it). I am hoping to have it plumbed in the next few days, and then start the process of moving numerous SPS colonies and frags to rubbermaid tubs so I can get the tank installed.

Thanks for the compliment!

 

[Editour2]

I have 2 questions that I need help on: I am going to install my 72" tank in wall....the showcase wall is in my den while the adjacent wall is in my garage. I am building a fish room in the garage. Here is question #1: Since the garage floor is sloped I was going to build the frame with 1 side higher than the other to level the stand. In other words when looking at the stand the left 2 legs will be higher than the 2 right legs to accommodate the slope, (IE: 1.5" slope over 6' therefore left 2 legs will be 1.5" taller than the 2 right legs). I had thought that as long as the frame was level the weight distribution would be equal throughout the stand however I was told that the 2 left legs would bear a greater load....since it is accounting for the incline. Is this true? Question #2: It was suggested that I utilize a floor leveler first and then make all legs equal so that the weight distribution would be equal throughout the stand. I don't mind doing this however would 1 to 2 inches of leveler crack under the weight of a filled 215 gal tank? Thanks for any input.

 

[TheFishMan65]

If it is level the weight will be distributed equally over all feet. What I am not sure about is whether you will need to cut the feet at an angle. The angle is probably small enough not to be a problem. If the slope is large all the weght is on on side/corner of the foot.

 

[Rhodophyta]

I have 2 questions that I need help on: I am going to install my 72" tank in wall....the showcase wall is in my den while the adjacent wall is in my garage. I am building a fish room in the garage. Here is question #1: Since the garage floor is sloped I was going to build the frame with 1 side higher than the other to level the stand. In other words when looking at the stand the left 2 legs will be higher than the 2 right legs to accommodate the slope, (IE: 1.5" slope over 6' therefore left 2 legs will be 1.5" taller than the 2 right legs). I had thought that as long as the frame was level the weight distribution would be equal throughout the stand however I was told that the 2 left legs would bear a greater load....since it is accounting for the incline. Is this true? Question #2: It was suggested that I utilize a floor leveler first and then make all legs equal so that the weight distribution would be equal throughout the stand. I don't mind doing this however would 1 to 2 inches of leveler crack under the weight of a filled 215 gal tank? Thanks for any input.

The only difference in load on the floor under each leg would be the (insignificant) weight accounted for by the weight of the material in the longer legs. The tank weight would be equally distributed.

A floor leveler might be best if you ever move the stand some day. There is some stuff you can spray before the leveling compound if you ever do move away that releases it from the garage floor. It shouldn't crack, but if it does, where would it go? You can frame it if it would look better and that way it couldn't move or open up on any crack if one happened.

 

[egos4life]

okay guys i have a 100 gallon 48x24 i have built the frame out of all 2x4s will i be okay?

 

[Editour2]

I don't care about having to re-use the stand I care about weight distribution....so the consensus is that it would be okay to build the stand on the garage floor, which has an approximate 1" to 1.5" sloping decline over the six feet, and utlizing higher legs on one end to account for the slope and level the tank on top? The end with the higher legs will not bear the brunt of weight distribution?

 

[DivineStler]

just finished my stand using a combination of plans from this thread.

it's a 24 x 24 magnetic stand. all 3 panels come off and the back is open. i spray painted the frame black to defuse any light escaping from the fuge.

 

[Rhodophyta]

okay guys i have a 100 gallon 48x24 i have built the frame out of all 2x4s will i be okay?

If the boards are set properly, and you have a glass or plywood aquarium, yes. An acrylic aquarium should have a solid base under it, a sheet of 3/4" plywood or better. MDO fir plywood is a good choice since it is slightly stiffer and flatter than regular exterior or marine plywood, but don't confuse it with MDF which is inappropriate for use around water or humidity.

http://www.freemansupply.com/MDOFirPlywood.htm

 

[Rhodophyta]

I don't care about having to re-use the stand I care about weight distribution....so the consensus is that it would be okay to build the stand on the garage floor, which has an approximate 1" to 1.5" sloping decline over the six feet, and utlizing higher legs on one end to account for the slope and level the tank on top? The end with the higher legs will not bear the brunt of weight distribution?

It is always more difficult to build something out of wood to an assymetric shape. And easier to get some part out of square that should not be. It would be better to make the stand with all the same length legs, and then use one inch blocks and composite shim pairs to level the legs and the stand. If you don't want to shim, and don't want to use a leveling compound to make a pad, then make a short wood platform that the stand will sit on.

No matter how many people tell you to do it, making the legs different lengths will exaggerate the imperfections of the material and the manufacture of the stand. Consensus is overrated.:beer: Everyone said the sun orbitted the earth except Gallileo. Ancient Greek philosophers relied on concensus until Aristotle.:beer: Where are they now? :celeb1:

 

[egos4life]

If the boards are set properly, and you have a glass or plywood aquarium, yes. An acrylic aquarium should have a solid base under it, a sheet of 3/4" plywood or better. MDO fir plywood is a good choice since it is slightly stiffer and flatter than regular exterior or marine plywood, but don't confuse it with MDF which is inappropriate for use around water or humidity.

http://www.freemansupply.com/MDOFirPlywood.htm

i plan on putting a board on top i just didnt know if i should center brace it or not

 

[Stumped]

just finished my stand using a combination of plans from this thread.

it's a 24 x 24 magnetic stand. all 3 panels come off and the back is open. i spray painted the frame black to defuse any light escaping from the fuge.

I'm contemplating taking the plunge and building my own stand (using this thread as a guide) and your stand is almost exactly what I would like to try and build. Could you please provide some more information regarding the tools, materials, any special techniques, etc. that you used? I've never done any woodworking so obviously I can use any help I can get.

 

[Rhodophyta]

i plan on putting a board on top i just didnt know if i should center brace it or not

Glass tank, no center brace (leg), no board on top needed but will not hurt anything. Plywood tank, board on top, bridging on 12" centers, no center brace. Acrylic tank, board on top, bridging on 12" centers, center brace.

 

[CorkPullerPHL]

I'm contemplating taking the plunge and building my own stand (using this thread as a guide) and your stand is almost exactly what I would like to try and build. Could you please provide some more information regarding the tools, materials, any special techniques, etc. that you used? I've never done any woodworking so obviously I can use any help I can get.

See Page 1-34. :lol2:

 

[Editour2]

Anyone know what kind of leveling compound would work best on a conrete floor? I guess I will level the area in my garage before I build the stand.

 

[scott26]

Here is my stand used this the get the basic design started. I still have to get the sides on and get the bottom trim on also finish the doors which are going to follow the curve of the front of the aquarium.