DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I'm having a 20"x20"x18" tank being made as well as a 18"x18"x14" sump. I need to be able to fit the sump in the stand. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?
If used 3/4" ply on the two sides, would this be strong enough to support the tank
 
Just about done with mine. This is the 2nd stand I have built for an aquarium, the 1st I just used 3/4 plywood all around. That was much easier then this. Even the nice 2x4's aren't made for putting a face frame on:mad: If I do it again, will for sure go with another 3/4 plywood and skip the 2x4 frame.

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I have question for you guys...
I made stand for 40 breeder using template
and I must have built it on uneven ground or
screw twisted the frame a bit that now
I have 1/8inches gap between ground and
one of corner. Should I crave out some wood
or put thin cardboard on corner or better yet
rebuild new stand?
Thanks for input
 
Sang,

It may be easier to just re-build the bottom frame - if not, this is what shims are for. I wouldn't tear the whole entire thing apart just yet.
 
question my tank will be 12 inches shorter than the stand it will sit on, 6 on each side, can i leave it like this

113frame.jpg


or would i have to add extra support where the tank will end on each side like this

113frame2.jpg


btw the reason for the extra length is that it will eventually look like this (hopefully lol)

dreamtank4.jpg
 
Eon,
How long is the tank. You could go up a size in the cross members. Say it is 47 inches rather than using 2x4s use 2x6s. From the way I have read the post it should work. But wait and see if anyone contradicts me.

Another option might be to change your corner. Rather than overlap on the side over lap in the front. So you 1.5 inches of support (2x4 running towards the back), then the fron 2x4 for another 3.5 inches. This puts the support within an inch (1.5 + 3.5) of the tank. You could then change the front 2x4 to a 2x6 and then it would mostly support the tank.

I think any of these would work, but then I am not a structural engineer. It is my understanding that this design is way over built which is part of what I am basing my thoughts on. I hope these thought will at least open up some ideas.

Good Luck.
 
ok i made some changes i switched the front and rears to 2x6 as well as changed the orientation of the interior 2x4's

113frame3.jpg


btw the tank is 66x22x18 and the stand is 78x22x32
 
I think that will work, but I am not structural engineer. If it acrylic I would add 2 more cross braces. As far as I know it makes no difference, but the bottom bar is cutoff on the left and not on the right, and if you don't skin it you may want the top bar to go all the way across rather than see the rough ends of the end 2x4s.
 
Question for anyone and everyone.

I am currently working on a stand for my 65 gallon tall tank. Dimensions of the tank are 36L x 18D x 24H, my question is with a tank this short in length is it possible to not have the center beam in the upper portion of the stand or will the stand most likely twist under load without it? Stand will be skinned and finished with 3/4" materials.

The stand is 34" high and used both screws and Titebond III glue for the build.

I've included a photo of the stand as it is currently. Reason I'd like to remove the brace is for mounting dual American DJ PC100 power strips.

Cheers,
Alex

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I think the "center beam" is misnamed, and it's really just bridging, as your interpretation of its supposed function supports. If you think your 2 by 4's will sag, warp, or twist, plywood glued and screwed to the back of them will be more useful than the bridging, which works to even out a number of floor joists in wood construction. With only two joists, it is pretty useless.

I don't use them.
 
Is the tank glass or acrylic? It is my understanding from what I have read here glass does not need the center brace, but acrylic does.
 
I want a custom stand made for my 30 gallon tall tank. It will also have a 20 tall sump on the bottom. My friend's grandfather (a carpenter) will build it for me but I was wondering if I could get some basic ideas from the knowledgeable people here. Any help would be much appreciated!
 
I'm looking to make a stand for an acrylic 180 (60x30x23), somewhere between 42-48" high. I'm planning on using all 2x4's, and using a load bearing center brace. Would it be best to also run supports on each side of the center brace to help support the bottom of the tank?
 
I want a custom stand made for my 30 gallon tall tank. It will also have a 20 tall sump on the bottom. My friend's grandfather (a carpenter) will build it for me but I was wondering if I could get some basic ideas from the knowledgeable people here. Any help would be much appreciated!

Best idea I could give you is to not try to tell a carpenter how do his job. :hammer:
Just let him know what you are looking for in your stand (easy access to your sump and the ability to remove it, maybe location(s) for power strips).
 
Well crap, I put my frame together and forgot to use glue. If I skin this stand (60x24) with 3/4" plywood screwed and glued will that be enough or do I need to take it all apart and glue it?
 
Well crap, I put my frame together and forgot to use glue. If I skin this stand (60x24) with 3/4" plywood screwed and glued will that be enough or do I need to take it all apart and glue it?
Is it screwed or nailed? If it's screwed, it shouldn't be too hard to loosen the screws and shoot some glue into the joints, if you want. (I've done it before)
Personally, I think you will be more than fine if you glue and screw the plywood.
 
Ah i see i see. How much weight is it supposed to hold? My tank has about 40 pounds of LR and like I said before its a 30 Tall. The 20T sump will go on the bottom so weight shouldnt be an issue for that. I'll make sure to mention that I need space for external equipment (media reactors and power strips).

Also how much headroom should I have for the sump>??
 
Is the tank glass or acrylic? It is my understanding from what I have read here glass does not need the center brace, but acrylic does.

Acrylic needs a solid shelf. So does plywood. Bridging is not going to supply it.

Certainly it's obvious these are not braces. They are not on top of or underneath the front and back rails as braces would be. They don't brace anything, and the only function they perform is to have fewer wood scraps at the end of the job. They would not be reliable, even if screwed and glued to the bottom of a plywood shelf set on top of the rails, to keep a plywood shelf from sagging.
 
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