DIY Stands Template and Calculator

I've put together 3D model of how I'm going to build my new stand. It's pretty much exactly like the standard model from this thread but with a bit of difference and I wonder if it's needed or not.

I have something like a 125g tank. 72x16 footprint, but stand I want to make with 72x24 footprint. So of course in this case one wall of the tank would be up in the air if I just do default model for a stand. So i've added another beam in the stand going across right where second wall of the tank would be hanging in the air, as well as added vertical legs to support it. Another extra thing that I'm thinking about adding aside from the beam in the middle is a sheet of plywood over the top to spread weight around a bit.

As far as lumber - top frame is 2x8, rest is 2x4

Do you think that middle beam is needed? will plywood on the top help at all or perhaps can replace the middle beam idea?

So here are few pictures of how tank will sit on the stand as well as stand from a few different angles.







 
raidendex said:
I've put together 3D model of how I'm going to build my new stand. It's pretty much exactly like the standard model from this thread but with a bit of difference and I wonder if it's needed or not.

I have something like a 125g tank. 72x16 footprint, but stand I want to make with 72x24 footprint. So of course in this case one wall of the tank would be up in the air if I just do default model for a stand. So i've added another beam in the stand going across right where second wall of the tank would be hanging in the air, as well as added vertical legs to support it. Another extra thing that I'm thinking about adding aside from the beam in the middle is a sheet of plywood over the top to spread weight around a bit.

As far as lumber - top frame is 2x8, rest is 2x4

Do you think that middle beam is needed? will plywood on the top help at all or perhaps can replace the middle beam idea?

So here are few pictures of how tank will sit on the stand as well as stand from a few different angles.
Click to expand...

From what I've read here, it would be recommended that you install a center post on the front and back to help support the weight.
This woul mean that you would have to install a center support under the beam that would be at 16" deep as well as in the front where the doors would be mounted.
 
spllbnd2 said:
From what I've read here, it would be recommended that you install a center post on the front and back to help support the weight.
This woul mean that you would have to install a center support under the beam that would be at 16" deep as well as in the front where the doors would be mounted.
Click to expand...

think that's what 2x8 is there for in the top frame. From reading here for 125g even 2x6 can do it without center leg.
 
I just built an 83" tank and I'm not sure what to do about doors. It looks like it needs 4 doors, but that means I would need a center piece between the 2 pairs.... but this stand was built to avoid the center brace. Not really sure how I will proceed.

skeleton.jpg


K, this pic is embarrassing but here goes.....

I'm not going to cut the front panel until I make certain of one other cut. I don't want to have to rebuy this piece of plywood 'cause it is one of those nice pre-sanded pieces. The wood really sucks around here. Time to get a planer!!!! The ruler in the pic shows the end of the tank.

startingskin.jpg


I'm probably going to need to put a little center brace and 4 doors, aren't I?
 
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One option is to have two doors on each side double-hinged together like bi-fold closet doors.
bifold-cabinet-doors.jpg


Another option is to have two panels (false doors) that lift out of a track.
You can glue moulding frames on the face to simulate the look of doors.
 
I was looking into that but couldn't find nice ones..... may I ask what site you got that from? I like those!

I thought of the doors that lift out, but then what would I do with them as I was futsing around in there? I know that sounds like a minor problem, but if I had a big door I actually wouldn't have anywhere to lay it.
 
i just started to build my stand and canopy for my 150. i just got done putting one coat of kilz on it. i am waiting for my new toy to arrive before i can begin to skin it. the wood in the picture with the cuts is walnut and i plan on book matching it all with the center line of the doors being the middle of the crotch on the bigger piece. i do not plan on having traditional doors or trim. i want all the edges to be clean. let me know if anyone has any suggestions or comments about it.

IMG_3329.jpg


IMG_3332.jpg
 
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Probably a super silly question, but how do you screw in a deck screw? I know I'm supposed to use a pilot hole, but when i'm screwing in the screw, am i supposed to use a low torque setting and low gear setting? I've played around with some screws and when i was drilling at the highest torque setting, it kinda turned a lot, so i think it may have not been screwed in securely. I tried screwing one in by hand and it was much tighter, so i assume i was doing something wrong.
 
ive built one of these like 3 weeks ago. it took 17 hoursish because i did alot of things manually. it was terrible process. it wasnt perfect but it is doing its job just fine. i did add the L metal things for support.
 
Sound like you may have stripped ths screw hole. Usually at high torque I end up pulling the head into the wood with deck screws. I would use low/medium torque and then do the last bit slowly to just sink the head.
 
Definatley sounds like you stripped the screw in the wood.

The way I do all my screws is to use some screw lubrication and use a bit driver (drill) to drive the screw just up to the point the head of the screw is flush with the wood. Then call me crazy but I use a 1/4" torque wrench (snap-on makes a nice one) and torque each screw with the same amount of torque into the wood.

Like I said, call me crazy but it has worked and never have had a stripped screw.
 
spllbnd,

You must use different torque for different woods. IMO screw size and wood type (hard/soft) wood make a big difference in the amount of torque required. I would recommend hand tightening until it is even with the wood face.
 
I stripped a few wood screws... then I whipped out my Kreg screws and took care of business.

skinned.jpg


skinnedside.jpg


I'm not going to nail the front on until I've decided on doors.
 
Great post, some pics of my beasty for my new 225. 2x4 / 2x6 construction tied together with deck screws, pocket screws and gorilla glue She is ROCK solid. I know I went overkill in many places but it makes me happy haha.

Still building it, so here are some updated photos. I went away from the wood look, and went with black slate stone. Doors will be dark smoked glass. I coated the stand in an oil based enamel. Repels water like crazy. I have a ways to go still with the stone work but I hope to have it all finished by this weekend "except the glass doors, special hinges are on order"

This first photo is actually of the back side....
stand.jpg


stand4.jpg


stand5.jpg
 
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